Cracked Block

forcefed6.4ford

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I know the guys doing stud and blower installs on C63's are using 500F silicone. Granted they are sealing at the top of the stud. Not sure how well it would work in our application.
 

78f100

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Tony, in your case I would try the wicking grade locktite. You can clean the hole with solvent, install the stud and then put the blue wicking grade in and it will work down around the threads. Little better sealer for the hole that you know already leaks. Fill the threads up so it is covering them.

Thanks Morgan, I hope the stuff I used stopped it but not sure yet. I have to get the trans back in to find out:doh:
If not I will check this stuff out.
 

gman1

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keep us posted on how this works...

I have some reservations about the thermal differential from one side of the cyl bore(s) to the other causing bore distortion and lack of piston ring sealing. (assuming you are just filling more (or only) on the 'valley' side of the cylinders.

another option we will be exploring will be these:

http://fulltorque.com/inserts.htm

we've used these in the past (not as a repair), but to allow for installation of larger diameter studs..ie taking a 7.3L block from 12mm studs to 14mm studs...no problems (just lots of machine work & labor)

Erics truck is the test truck for this new process so we will see how it works.
 

Highroller54

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Is it that stock head bolts don't "crack the block" or they just don't leak (allow the coolant to seep up and out) so most cracks go unnoticed? This has me worried to install studs in my truck.
 

mike@haller's

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The block we had crack, cracked about 4 threads up from the bottom. The crack ran horizontally front to back. I pulled the stud and sealed it just fine. But the crack kept spreading and eventually spread to the lifter valley and flooded the engine in coolant. Also this truck had been studded for 30k miles and had studs put in at 300 miles. The crack didn't come about till the second time the studs were put in.
 

Highroller54

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I was thinking we need to start a thread to see what block castings are ones that failed and year of truck with stud brand number so we can keep track.

I would love to see casting numbers and see if we can find something to go on.
 

sootie

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i really really hate to be the one bumping this thread.....


1200 miles after stud install
 

sootie

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What's going on Ron??

Cracked block i assume. it didn't pressurize the coolant at all. i changed the oil 1.5 weeks ago, everything looked good. two days ago i noticed a coolant smell and clear liquid leaking from my ccv reroute hose. i checked the oil fill cap and there was an off white color jelly and the coolant reservoir was empty. i have parked the truck and wont get into it for about a week. depression is on the horizon...
 

MINK

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Cracked block i assume. it didn't pressurize the coolant at all. i changed the oil 1.5 weeks ago, everything looked good. two days ago i noticed a coolant smell and clear liquid leaking from my ccv reroute hose. i checked the oil fill cap and there was an off white color jelly and the coolant reservoir was empty. i have parked the truck and wont get into it for about a week. depression is on the horizon...

I hate hearing that buddy, good luck.
 

HD F250

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Cracked block i assume. it didn't pressurize the coolant at all. i changed the oil 1.5 weeks ago, everything looked good. two days ago i noticed a coolant smell and clear liquid leaking from my ccv reroute hose. i checked the oil fill cap and there was an off white color jelly and the coolant reservoir was empty. i have parked the truck and wont get into it for about a week. depression is on the horizon...

This sucks! Sorry to hear man, I know much time and money goes into these builds.....
 

sootie

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i have a question....


if the block is cracked, when does it leak the most? at what temperature? what else can cause coolant in the oil without pressurizing the coolant system?

my truck definitely has coolant in the oil but with the oil pan dropped and the coolant system pressurized, there are no leaks and it doesn't drop pressure in two days.

it drank less than a gallon of coolant in one week. 90k miles only 5k tuned.
 

sootie

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May only do it when hot.

that's what i was afraid of. aside from a new shortbock, what are my options. we have had the block heater plugged in all day to try and get some temperature to it.
 
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SEABEE08FX4

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that's what i was afraid of. aside from a new shortbock, what are my options. we have had the block heater plugged in all day to try and get some temperature to it.

If its cracked in a water jacket not much else you can do unfortunately, it will just continue to grow. You may be able to seal it temporarily, but once the crack grows it will leak again.
 

Super08Duty

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Mine leaked coolant with the motor hot and cold. Watched the coolant steadily drip out of my oil plug. Pick up blue devil or BG 511 and run it through the cooling system. After flushing my system with blue devil coolant level hasn't moved in 2 months.
 

sootie

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Mine leaked coolant with the motor hot and cold. Watched the coolant steadily drip out of my oil plug. Pick up blue devil or BG 511 and run it through the cooling system. After flushing my system with blue devil coolant level hasn't moved in 2 months.

roughly how many miles did you do in the two months and what does your EOT run at? are there any side effects to running the sealant?
 

webb06

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I could watch mine drip from the oil pan pug as well. Found the stud and siliconed around it. Put some stop leak in it. Worked for maybe 2 weeks. Now it's losing coolant again and the oil level has rose a bit.

I'm parking mine until I can pull the cab to get my new short block swapped over.

Sometimes they will seal up sometimes they won't. For me it was worth a shot to try sealing it up.
 

sootie

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Thats interesting. Mine is not dripping so it obviously isnt quite as bad of a leak. I'm wondering if it possibly could be an oil cooler or a front cover that may be giving me the same symptoms?
 

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