Cracked Block

SEABEE08FX4 · Aug 13, 2013

sootie said:
Thats interesting. Mine is not dripping so it obviously isnt quite as bad of a leak. I'm wondering if it possibly could be an oil cooler or a front cover that may be giving me the same symptoms?

Pull the water pump off and see, I'm doing one right now that has slight signs of cavation on the timing cover but nothing major yet.

sootie · Aug 13, 2013

SEABEE08FX4 said:
Pull the water pump off and see, I'm doing one right now that has slight signs of cavation on the timing cover but nothing major yet.

What were the symptoms on the motor you are working on? did it fail a coolant pressure test?

SEABEE08FX4 · Aug 13, 2013

sootie said:
What were the symptoms on the motor you are working on? did it fail a coolant pressure test?

Just bad HG, its just getting studded now.

Super08Duty · Aug 13, 2013

sootie said:
roughly how many miles did you do in the two months and what does your EOT run at? are there any side effects to running the sealant?

Honestly have no idea what oil temps got to, I ran blue devil through the system and ran the 1/8th mile a couple times. Haven't driven the truck sense then. So maybe 4 miles on it lol. Ill be putting a couple hundred miles on it next month.

Halvy85 · Feb 25, 2014

Well looks like I can join the cracked block crowd. Top stud second row from the back on the drivers side. What do you guys think about pulling just that one stud out and putting some thread sealant on it? I know it's only a temporary fix but if I can get even just a little while out of it until I can round up another block it would be nice. Also what kind of thread sealant do you guys use that have done it?

SEABEE08FX4 · Feb 25, 2014

Halvy85 said:
Well looks like I can join the cracked block crowd. Top stud second row from the back on the drivers side. What do you guys think about pulling just that one stud out and putting some thread sealant on it? I know it's only a temporary fix but if I can get even just a little while out of it until I can round up another block it would be nice. Also what kind of thread sealant do you guys use that have done it?

I use blue monster, its rated to 3000 psi of gas pressure and 10,000 PSI liquid pressure, and 400*F. So far its been working great.

Halvy85 · Feb 25, 2014

What should I touque the stud back down too? It's a 1722 from elite. I know some people go a little bit extra when they reuse studs. But I see where sledpull only goes to 250 on arp's in the stud holes that are prone to cracking.

golfer · Feb 25, 2014

Halvy85 said:
What should I touque the stud back down too? It's a 1722 from elite. I know some people go a little bit extra when they reuse studs. But I see where sledpull only goes to 250 on arp's in the stud holes that are prone to cracking.

not sure if it helps...but here are our instructions:

http://swampsdiesel.com/site/instal...df_instructions/6.4LHeadStudInstallation2.pdf

SEABEE08FX4 · Feb 25, 2014

Halvy85 said:
What should I touque the stud back down too? It's a 1722 from elite. I know some people go a little bit extra when they reuse studs. But I see where sledpull only goes to 250 on arp's in the stud holes that are prone to cracking.

I take the ARP's and the A1's to 275, some take them way past that. I've heard others stop at 200-250. If your wrench is calibrated and you're careful to not go over it just retourque to what it was at previously.

V-Ref · Feb 26, 2014

golfer said:
not sure if it helps...but here are our instructions:

http://swampsdiesel.com/site/instal...df_instructions/6.4LHeadStudInstallation2.pdf

Have you had any negative customer feedback (i.e. leaking HGs) in using 200 ft/lbs?

drunk on diesel · Feb 26, 2014

Fast-6.0 said:
Not saying what you are doing is wrong at all but I do have a little more insight based on your comments.

The ARP and A1 studs don't bottom out in the bottom of the blindhole, they stop at the top of the deck. So I don't see this issue as installer error. Nor do I see the 1/2 turn or 1/4 turn backed off doing anything to help or hurt this. The stud turns to bottom itself once torqued, and again it (both brands) stops when the threads at the top of the deck bottom out on the stud. A great distance from where the crack is occuring.

Just some thoughts.

aftermarket head studs typically have a coarse thread at the block and a fine thread at the nut. the fine thread dictates that the torque force is applied at the top of the fastener. If the stud is creeping into the block while torquing, you need to use the correct lubricant at the nut thread