Cracked blocks

Powerstroke586

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my truck is an 09/07 build and i have the 1722's that have been retorqued for a second time (stuck lifter after studs were installed). I have about 25k on the new torque and havent seen and issue yet. also used ARP lube on the 1722's the second time around cause i couldnt get ahold of anything else.
 

Fordtrucks

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Would it help the second time around to use a new set of studs instead of re using the old studs and just re torquing to a higher spec?
 

Dzchey21

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na i think its just with how things stretch and relax after the torquing, again all of this is speculation at this point
 

Mike@MPD

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My old block was tq'd down to 325 and had two tq sequences before that with the "h-11's" before it took it out, no cracks
 

webb06

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I had arps first time around torqued to 325. Block cracked and went to custom aged elite studs torqued to 215
 

Fordtrucks

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I've got ARPs now but I need to replace my heads. Not sure if I should re use them and go an extra 10 lbs or replace them with new studs.. really don't want to crack the block!
 

webb06

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600 dollar studs vs 1400 dollar studs....

And? I wasnt going to chance it being the extra torque value on my new engine. So I went with the best. I was going to just do the h11's but elite was out of stock and made me a good deal on the custom aged
 

Crack85

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And? I wasnt going to chance it being the extra torque value on my new engine. So I went with the best. I was going to just do the h11's but elite was out of stock and made me a good deal on the custom aged

Lol. I'm not knocking you....that was my response to arps vs custom age. All this **** boils down to is how deep ones pockets are.
 

gman1

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Tadd and I both used CA 625,s and both our blocks are cracked. It does not mater what stud you use. If its going to crack its going to crack!!
 

B585Ford

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Tadd and I both used CA 625,s and both our blocks are cracked. It does not mater what stud you use. If its going to crack its going to crack!!

:whs: I think it was Tadd who explained it before....but don't get caught up in the Tq values cause ARP 2000s stretch more than the 625s. Bottom line, you are always running the risk of cracking the block when doing studs. The nice thing about the stronger studs (real H11s, ARP 625s) is when you use stronger studs, there is less chance you will ever have to pull the heads cause you blew a HG....of course crack a head, lifter failure, etc. and then you gotta pull the heads and risk the cracked block again.
 

Fordtrucks

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I'm nervous enough about re doing mine that I'm considering new studs so I don't have to re torque my current ones to an even tighter spec..
 

kdogg85

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My wife's truck has the 625's in it. We just ran the stud till it bottomed, then backed it out 3/4 turn. She put a strip of dye-chem on a stud edge, then torqued them down in 4 steps. The studs all turned about 1/2 turn back in, so no bottomed out studs. Did both my motors! And both of hers this way. No problems so far.

As for when the blocks are going bad, the ones that crack while torquing I could see. But, the ones letting go later down the road have me thinking, is it the clamping force plus heating/cooling cycles causing it, or could there be some very high cylinder pressures finding a weak spot?
 

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