webb06
Active member
And you might be the fastest. You built 3 motors in like 4 hours
Haha I doubt that. Looking back now I wouldn't trade the experience I gained for the money I spent. It was a major headache but it was fun and I leaned a lot
And you might be the fastest. You built 3 motors in like 4 hours
Two of the most educated 6.4 mechanics are giving you insight on the ACTUAL reason why the blocks crack and you're still trying to prove them wrong? Goodluck. From personal experience.....twice.....they cracked exactly where Morgan and Tadd said they do. Not because the stud bottomed out
SVTDANNY: you really need to understand where these guys are coming from. I've cracked a couple blocks myself, one being my own. Threads are perfectly clean prior, engine oil applied to block side threads, top of studs marked to ensure they don't thread in further, and enough assy lube to where it squishes out of the bottom and top of threads as well as top and bottom of the washers. Torqued to 210 lb/ft knowing for a fact that studs did not bottom out, and still got small cracks. Cooling system sealer stopped mine, but the customers' block had to be replaced. Both of the guys you're arguing with are well known performance shop owners and engine builders. I can't say how many engines Morgan has built, but just as a reference, Tadd (fast6.0) designed the first 6.4 studs, and has built dozens of 6.4 race engines.
Anybody ever torque just the studs in the crack prone holes to a lesser torque? Thought I read that posted somewhere?
I think it has been discussed before. I would believe this would cause an un-even clamping load on the head across the surface. Someone with more of a physics or engineering background can probably confirm.
You aren't supposed to oil the block threads on ARP studs.
Tell me which two holes have less material around them?
It will definitely be uneven clamping....from an engineering background, if u are dropping the torque I would do it across the board so that clamping force is the same.
#1: I was not using arp's in the example I gave.
#2: can you give me one legitimate reason why oil on the block side threads is not acceptable? How about red loctite, Teflon thread sealant or even a thin coat of gear oil? I have used all of these.
I realize you're trying to help here, but coming off as a know-it-all, telling experts what is, and is not acceptable is not doing you any favors.
Definitely would not use uneven torque values.
Lubing the threads that go into the block and promoting turning the stud into a bolt, causing this problem.
So your blanket statement covers all engines? I've built plenty of engines that call for different torques on certain studs. And how perfect do you think a standard torque wrench is? 1%? Nope 3-5% more like
So once again blanket statement? Since you can blow the stud hole out the bottom on a sbc means it what is happening here too?
I can take 10 blocks and torque 10 of them to 345# and all ten will be cracked in the same spot. All of them will be half way up the side in the lifer valley. Not in the bottom.
Again Danny, Wayne wasn't using arp studs in his examples
If we are talking about H11 studs, then yes. A DROP of oil on the threads is used to prevent them from corroding once in the block. Not for lubrication.