Stroked777
New member
you have just misinformed yourself as why they crack
If the manufacturer calls for it, then that's how it was designed. Factory torque spec on a 6.4 is even torque across the holes. Deviating from that will net you a different (And undesirable) result.
Of course it will crack where it's weakest. Once the stud bottoms out, it is trying to drive the threads up out of the hole - the hole will crack wherever it is weakest.
I'm not trying to tell you how to do your job. If torquing the bolts unevenly works for you, then great. If those heads ever come off again, they will be trash as you will run out of the factory valve recession range trying to take enough material off to get them straight again.
Alright boys, back to work. You all keep cracking your blocks and wondering why. :thumbup:
Anyone running over 70 psi of boost at 250 ft lbs and not puking?
Anyone running over 70 psi of boost at 250 ft lbs and not puking?
Anyone running over 70 psi of boost at 250 ft lbs and not puking?
So how many 6.4 head gasket jobs have you done SVTDanny? You seemed pretty proud doing the one set in your truck with a craftsman tool kit in your driveway, so I'm guessing that's the only one. Maybe you should try learning something here from the guys that do it every day, instead of trying to tell them they're all wrong.
The 6.4 is nothing special. Uneven torque of the studs will cause issues. My chambers were down 3 to 4 thou below the rest of the surface of the heads. Think about that - there is enough torque in the cylinder to warp a 3.74" thick piece of cast iron that much, what do you think it's going to do to that same head that has uneven clamping forces on it? I took just enough material off to clean the heads up and my valve recessions were at .00215" and .00225" - Ford specs say the minimum is .0017". My heads, with even torque, are already 5 thou from being garbage.
And if someone can't understand that whether the bolt bottoms out in the block or on the deck, it will still cause a crack at the weakest point in the hole - that's on them.
An engineering, machining, and engine building background tells me all I need to know about why blocks are cracking. I see it every day. I don't need internet experts to tell me their theories. I guess I had mistaken this thread for being one open to actual technical discussion. Moving on.
Well thank you for your background and what it tells you. Wasn't trying to be a dick but since you told everyone how little we all know and how were wrong, I think it's best that you step out.
1: you only have a theory. So please tell me how many you have had cracked and in your possession for failure analysis?
2: during your failure analysis did you find that there were marks in the bottom of the stud hole causing your theory to be proved correct?
3: have you been able to see multiple cracked blocks with the same exact results to back your claim?
4: How much stress at what torque does an arp 2000 16mm stud place on the block? How much cylinder pressure will that clamping force hold back before that material of the studs yield given the surface area of the chamber forcing them to stretch?
5: how many engines have you studded since then? Did you pilot some new torque procedure on your own 6.4 making over 1000hp to see if it would work before telling the masses?
6: do you have multiples of proven trucks since then running that same sequence and torque to prove that it works?
I can say I have.
Soo...... are you really sure you want to call us a bunch of "internet experts"? What do you have to refute these FACTs I present, that I've lived and breathed. Or is it just a theory based on your background?
Check your facts please. This didn't have to go this far, but your ego got in the way to prove everyone wrong.
That's for ppl running ARPs, custom aged or H11?
Well thank you for your background and what it tells you. Wasn't trying to be a dick but since you told everyone how little we all know and how were wrong, I think it's best that you step out.
1: you only have a theory. So please tell me how many you have had cracked and in your possession for failure analysis?
2: during your failure analysis did you find that there were marks in the bottom of the stud hole causing your theory to be proved correct?
3: have you been able to see multiple cracked blocks with the same exact results to back your claim?
4: How much stress at what torque does an arp 2000 16mm stud place on the block? How much cylinder pressure will that clamping force hold back before that material of the studs yield given the surface area of the chamber forcing them to stretch?
5: how many engines have you studded since then? Did you pilot some new torque procedure on your own 6.4 making over 1000hp to see if it would work before telling the masses?
6: do you have multiples of proven trucks since then running that same sequence and torque to prove that it works?
I can say I have.
Soo...... are you really sure you want to call us a bunch of "internet experts"? What do you have to refute these FACTs I present, that I've lived and breathed. Or is it just a theory based on your background?
Check your facts please. This didn't have to go this far, but your ego got in the way to prove everyone wrong.
I shelled out 800.00 for good torque wrenches. 1 for the studs and a smaller on for everything else. 800.00 is cheap compared to the alternative.