White_monster
Active member
Yes it is.
Cracked blocks
- Thread starter White_monster
- Start date
forcefed6.4ford
New member
I know the come out way harder then they go in.
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
New member
Idk why we even brought this thread back from the dead. Haven't been any real rash of cracked blocks lately since everyone quit using the Goliath (more is better) torque method.
White_monster
Active member
:whs:
powerstroked08
Active member
Well we did learn that you and Tadd have no clue when it comes to a 6.4!LOL
OBS F350
New member
Buy a 55 gallon drum of arp lube per stud job. If you Dont use it all you aren't doing it right.
dont judge me LOL
Morgan@Midwest Diesel & Auto
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bows08
Member
I couldn't ever see where this was answered? I have the milk on my fill cap but not on the dipstick yet and think I'm going to try the BG.
bows08
Member
Thanks man. I assume you had good luck with it sealing? I tow occasionally but not to heavy (12-13k at the most) and that's seldom.
bows08
Member
Good news. Going to give it a shot and hopefully I caught it in time.
makaveli200369
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Hi sorry for bringing this up from the dead but I have information to add to the thread after measuring and comparing to a 6.0 block. I took pics but it seems I have a limit of uploading 5.
I feel my findings confirm what Morgan said. Its not the stud bottoming out causing the cracks but a lack of material.
First thing I want to clarify is stock 6.4 bolt is threaded at least 80% the length of the bolt. Meanwhile the ARP is threaded maybe an 1.5" up. This means the stud can physically only be threaded up to the point where the threads stop which is a short distance up. For a fact the stock bolt can be threaded in until it bottoms out. Now here is where I try to find out if the ARP is bottoming out.
ARP stud total length = 7.820"
stock 6.4 bolt total length = 7.635"
stock 6.4 bolt length to the bottom of the bolt head = 6.900"
I drive both the bolt and stud in until they both stop turning and measure from the deck of the block to the end of the stud, bolt, and bottom of the bolt head. Basically how much length of the and and bolt are sticking up.
ARP = 4.800" sticking out of block
stock 6.4 bolt total length = 4.235" sticking out of block
stock 6.4 bolt length to the bottom of the bolt head = 3.500" sticking out
ARP total length 7.820" - 4.800" = 3.020" of stud is in the block.
stock 6.4 total length 7.635" - 4.235" = 3.400" is in the block
stock 6.4 bottom of bolt head 6.900" - 3.500" = 3.400" in the block
This tells me 3.400" is the depth of the bolt hole in the block seeing how the fully threaded bolt can be screwed in until it hits. Since the stud is not fully threaded up the body its stopping where the thread ends to prevent a bottom out.
(3.400" - 3.020" = 0.380") That means 0.380" of space exists between the ARP stud and the bottom of the bolt hole in the block. That is a lot of space and even when you tighten down the stud and it turns a little bit it's not going to close that gap. It would need several complete turns after the fact that it already stopped being able to turn.
Okay so now that we got the bottoming out covered lets move on to material thickness.
So I inspect a 6.0 block.
Total length of 6.0 head bolt exceeded my caliper so I measured from bottom of head bolt to the tip = 7.675"
Screwed bolt all the way down and 5.495" from deck of block to bottom of head bolt.
7.675" - 5.495" = 2.18" of bolt depth.
This is where it gets interesting! The 6.0 is shallow depth compared to the 6.4 is deeper into the block.
6.0 engine = 2.18" bolt hole depth
6.4 engine = 3.400" bolt hole depth
Now since the blocks are known to crack near the casting line in the lifter valley I measured from the cast line to deck of the block = 2.00"
So in the 6.0 the bolt hole stops just past that line and then has nothing but meat extending past that. The 6.4 on the other hand extends past that cast line by another 1.400". So not only did the block lose meat from the diameter of the M16 increase but also from the depth of the hole. So the 6.0 has more meat around that cast line in the bolt hole area. Everyone can make their own conclusions but I thought this data would be helpful.
I feel my findings confirm what Morgan said. Its not the stud bottoming out causing the cracks but a lack of material.
First thing I want to clarify is stock 6.4 bolt is threaded at least 80% the length of the bolt. Meanwhile the ARP is threaded maybe an 1.5" up. This means the stud can physically only be threaded up to the point where the threads stop which is a short distance up. For a fact the stock bolt can be threaded in until it bottoms out. Now here is where I try to find out if the ARP is bottoming out.
ARP stud total length = 7.820"
stock 6.4 bolt total length = 7.635"
stock 6.4 bolt length to the bottom of the bolt head = 6.900"
I drive both the bolt and stud in until they both stop turning and measure from the deck of the block to the end of the stud, bolt, and bottom of the bolt head. Basically how much length of the and and bolt are sticking up.
ARP = 4.800" sticking out of block
stock 6.4 bolt total length = 4.235" sticking out of block
stock 6.4 bolt length to the bottom of the bolt head = 3.500" sticking out
ARP total length 7.820" - 4.800" = 3.020" of stud is in the block.
stock 6.4 total length 7.635" - 4.235" = 3.400" is in the block
stock 6.4 bottom of bolt head 6.900" - 3.500" = 3.400" in the block
This tells me 3.400" is the depth of the bolt hole in the block seeing how the fully threaded bolt can be screwed in until it hits. Since the stud is not fully threaded up the body its stopping where the thread ends to prevent a bottom out.
(3.400" - 3.020" = 0.380") That means 0.380" of space exists between the ARP stud and the bottom of the bolt hole in the block. That is a lot of space and even when you tighten down the stud and it turns a little bit it's not going to close that gap. It would need several complete turns after the fact that it already stopped being able to turn.
Okay so now that we got the bottoming out covered lets move on to material thickness.
So I inspect a 6.0 block.
Total length of 6.0 head bolt exceeded my caliper so I measured from bottom of head bolt to the tip = 7.675"
Screwed bolt all the way down and 5.495" from deck of block to bottom of head bolt.
7.675" - 5.495" = 2.18" of bolt depth.
This is where it gets interesting! The 6.0 is shallow depth compared to the 6.4 is deeper into the block.
6.0 engine = 2.18" bolt hole depth
6.4 engine = 3.400" bolt hole depth
Now since the blocks are known to crack near the casting line in the lifter valley I measured from the cast line to deck of the block = 2.00"
So in the 6.0 the bolt hole stops just past that line and then has nothing but meat extending past that. The 6.4 on the other hand extends past that cast line by another 1.400". So not only did the block lose meat from the diameter of the M16 increase but also from the depth of the hole. So the 6.0 has more meat around that cast line in the bolt hole area. Everyone can make their own conclusions but I thought this data would be helpful.
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stroker221
New member
Hmm thank you for sharing that information. So in conclusion there's really no fix..
Is it possible to shorten the arp's so that they do not exceed past the casting line? That way it would put less stress towards the bottom?
Is it possible to shorten the arp's so that they do not exceed past the casting line? That way it would put less stress towards the bottom?
powerstroked08
Active member
I would say that lowering the torque value and o-ringing the heads would be the best bet.
webb06
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sootie
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they way yours and mine trucks are done seems to be working fine, No?
