Cracked piston

kleake · Nov 17, 2017

sootie said:
#sixfourlyfe

So true.......

Roccafellas · Nov 17, 2017

sootie said:
#sixfourlyfe

#crusindownthestreetinmysixfo

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sootie · Nov 17, 2017

Roccafellas said:
#crusindownthestreetinmysixfo

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You wish....

Roccafellas · Nov 17, 2017

sootie said:
You wish....

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PrecisionEngine · Nov 18, 2017

Last year when I was going through this process, an article on sleeving 6.4s came in an edition of Engine Builder Magazine at my families shop. It had some good information about the block's weak area at the bottoms of the bores.

Here's a similar article: https://www.lasleeve.com/news/cylinder-sleeve-installation-on-2008-2010-ford-6.4l-diesel-engines

kleake · Nov 18, 2017

That is good info. Is sleeving a good option though? My initial thoughts are no, but I've heard some say it works fine.

PrecisionEngine · Nov 18, 2017

kleake said:
That is good info. Is sleeving a good option though? My initial thoughts are no, but I've heard some say it works fine.

I think it is viable solution. However, you have to take into consideration cost and proper machining. Not all machine shops are equal.

Sorry I cant be much more help.

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Roccafellas · Nov 18, 2017

kleake said:
That is good info. Is sleeving a good option though? My initial thoughts are no, but I've heard some say it works fine.

I’ve heard that sleeving these blocks is a 50/50 chance with the thin cylinder wall protruding into the crankcase area that machining it could either crack/break that thin wall, or leave you will barely any metal after and pounding the sleeve in could result in damage too, i had the option to sleeve my block but I decided to find one used, and have it bored .20 over best decision ever, now i’m not worried about sleeves and if needed I can sleeve my old block and test it and see how it works and if it works I have two good blocks!

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kleake · Nov 18, 2017

That's the direction I am thinking so far. I'm not too crazy about the idea of sleeving one of these. Too much $$$ at risk.

kleake · Nov 20, 2017

Well, here is what it looks like at .025. Doubting .030 will look much different. Can't hardly feel it, but it's enough I don't trust it. I don't care fore the sleeve idea, so I'm on the search for a block. Joy joy...

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co04cobra · Nov 20, 2017

If the machine shop and/or machinist are capable I do not see a problem with sleeving.

My machinist uses the LA west sleeves and sees no problem, but as was stated, if it's the machinist first attempt at this repair I could see the concern.

kleake · Nov 20, 2017

co04cobra said:
If the machine shop and/or machinist are capable I do not see a problem with sleeving.

My machinist uses the LA west sleeves and sees no problem, but as was stated, if it's the machinist first attempt at this repair I could see the concern.

He has done a couple of 6.4's and plenty of others, but he does NOT like to do it on these. Those cyl walls are super thin and he just does not like it. He also said the sleeves are usually a softer metal than the block. My concern is with the intense heat, how well would a sleeve hold up when you are pushing things pretty hard. Can it transfer the head to the water jacket as quick as a non-sleeved cyl? Maybe i'm overthinking, but I just don't like that thought when i've got this much tied up in it.

Spectre32 · Nov 20, 2017

Sleeving is pretty common in plenty of other applications (Marine, Heavy Construction, OTR, etc.) I would think if you have a good machine shop you would be set.

PrecisionEngine · Nov 20, 2017

Spectre32 said:
Sleeving is pretty common in plenty of other applications (Marine, Heavy Construction, OTR, etc.) I would think if you have a good machine shop you would be set.

Most OTR engines and Heavy Equipment is Wet sleeved. Where the engine is designed specifically for serviceable sleeves.

This is not the case here. This is a aftermarket solution to save a block.

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sootie · Nov 20, 2017

When i had this issue, Morgan advised me against sleeving if i was pushing it hard and wanting long term reliability.

Spectre32 · Nov 20, 2017

I would think if you could remove bore material to get to .030 over then sleeveing it would not be a big issue. Your adding material back into the equation, assuming you wouldn't need to bore more than .030.

PrecisionEngine · Nov 20, 2017

Spectre32 said:
I would think if you could remove bore material to get to .030 over then sleeveing it would not be a big issue. Your adding material back into the equation, assuming you wouldn't need to bore more than .030.

The outside bore diameter of the sleeve is 4.000". The stock bore size on a 6.4l is 3.870". A 0.030" over bore is 3.900". Therefore, You have to bore 0.100" over 0.030" bore size.

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kleake · Feb 1, 2018

Long story short, my block was too far gone. Bought a used motor in hopes of a usable block, but it was worse than mine. Found a good block from another forum member and had it shipped here. Machine shop took forever, but finally got to it. .020 over pistons and stage 1 cam showed up today and will be taken to the machine shop tomorrow. I hope they are faster at this last part so I can get it back. I've been down since october...

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