Daily Driver / Tow Pig Build....

mjonesjr

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I got my regulator mounted. It was quite easy. It is all tucked up nice and neatly under the engine cover.

After getting it mounted, I decided I needed to turn the gauge out so it could be read without taking the engine cover off and using a mirror. The change isn't pictured.

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I also got my banjo block all ready to go in when the mechanical fuel pump comes out. I put a tee in it so I could mount a gauge on there to check the fuel pressure and eventually mount an in cab fuel pressure gauge sending unit.

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While messing around I decided to check my glow plugs to see if they needed to be changed because I was getting a small amount of smoke on a cool summer morning when the truck was first started. While pulling 1 plug for them out I noticed the front passenger plug was burnt on one end.

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I got it swapped out and it even starts easier now.



More to come tomorrow when I start removing the stock mechanical fuel pump.
 

mjonesjr

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Well I took the plunge today and ripped out the fuel bowl and stock fuel pump.

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Everyone says this wire is a pain in the but to get out with the fuel bowl and they wind up cutting part of it. If you unplug the 2 connectors on it that doesn't go to the fuel bowl, it will come out with the fuel bowl and you can feed it back through the bowl with no cutting necessary.

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I had a good scare when removing the fuel pump. I guess this is where it was leaking from as it finished breaking off. Luckily the cam shaft lobe was in the up position to hold the plunger in place. Once I got the o-ring out, this pulled out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

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There was a lot of crap and debris under the fuel bowl and the pump. I had to use a shop vac to get it all out and not drop it into the hole in the top of the block.

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Everything is mounted and ready for wiring now. I am going to do the wiring tomorrow after church so hopefully she is back on the road again tomorrow. There is no turning back now.

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mjonesjr

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I can honestly say that a regulated return like this will make swapping out the HPOP a million times easier.
 

Ford3544

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That is one very good looking truck!!!! Nice work and awesome documenting on what you do. I am really wanting to find a nice truck like this to get as my new work truck. Just can't find a good one that has been taken care of around here. I should have done better on documenting mine during the build.
 

mjonesjr

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I got her on the road. I have a small leak in the banjo block so this week I am going to get rid of it.

The truck is completely different now with the e-fuel setup. It has better throttle response, builds boost faster, and less throttle to get the same result as before.
 

mjonesjr

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the parts mite be a prob.lol i wanted to ask you how much you spent by the time it was all said and done
I've got $475 in mine.

Parts List:
1. Super Duty 7.3 single fuel pump & bracket - $80
2. Aeromotive Regulator (Jeg's Part #: 27-13109) - $144.99
3. Jeg's 1" Liquid Filled 0-100 PSI Gauge (Jeg's Part #: 555-41013) - $18.99
4. Holly Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (Jeg's Part #: 510-12-810) - $25.99
5. Jeg's -6AN to 3/8" Hose Barb (Jeg's Part #: 799-670300) - $7.99
6. Painless Wiring Relay Base (Jeg's Part #: 764-80133) - $5.99
7. Mr. Gasket Fuel "Y" Block (Jeg's Part #:720-2961) - $23.99
8. Misc. fittings (locally sourced) - $50
9. 2x Filter Heads (FleetFilter.com) - $50
10. WIX/Napa Gold 30 Micron Fuel/Water Separator (FleetFilter.com) - $18
11. WIX/Napa Gold 2 Micron Fuel Filter (FleetFilter.com) - $25
12. 3/8" Fuel Injection rated fuel hose (O'Reilly Auto Parts) - $50 total




This is the wiring diagram I used. Thanks to Tom S. for the diagram.

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For the ignition key source, I used an unused terminal on the glow plug solenoid.

For the starter trigger wire, I came off the starter solenoid and ran the wire across the top of the motor and down to the oil pressure switch. This allowed me to put all the wiring in wire loom to make it nice and tidy.

For power, I used a wire terminal and connected it to where the main power wire connects to the under hood fuse block. Then I put a 20A MAXI fuse in the power wire going to the relay.

Power for the pump was ran down the frame rail and to the pump power terminal.

Ground was acquired for the relay at a factory ground location on the inner fender on the driver side.

Ground for the pump was put to a bolt for the fuel filter base mounted to the factory frame.

I still haven't got an inertia switch in the wiring yet, but will as soon as I get one out of a wrecked Ford.



I had to use a 1/8" close nipple and a 1/8" coupling to space the fuel pressure switch out so it didn't hit the oil cooler when installed.


The wiring is literately the EASIEST part of the whole install.



I was completely shocked when the truck fired up with no problems. It started faster the first time after the install faster than it ever did with the mechanical fuel pump.

The fuel pressure regulator was set at a factory setting of 45 PSI. Once I got it adjusted to 70 PSI it idled and ran smoother than before.
 

mjonesjr

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thanks thats a clean install. you really did your homework.lol im surprised it was that cheap when my buddy did his he had about a grand in it.
Holy crap, a $1,000? I guess I could see that if you bought a brand new pump and bracket, and bought your filters and bases at an auto parts store. If you source your parts right, you can do it pretty cheap.

Like I said, when you get your parts together, let me know. I will be more than happy to help do the swap.



Here is a picture of my PSI gauge on the regulator.

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This thing is running like a beast. I love it more now than I did before with the mechanical fuel pump.
 

mjonesjr

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Like I said, if your source your parts right it isn't that bad to do. A guy on PSN gave me a price of $100 shipped on the 7.3 pump and bracket with a 30 day guarantee.
 
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