Don't think rings are set

[ja_cain]

I wonder what kind of honing process Swamps uses (plateau hone or traditional)? If the former, then it might take a little longer for the rings to break in. Also, do they use a torque plate when honing(I would think they would)? Are moly rings used in diesels? If so, then it might take longer for these to break in also. The ZDDP is definitely seems like a no brainer especially if aftermarket cam and stiffer valve springs are used.

 

[ja_cain]

I meant the latter on the honing process that would take longer to break in. Too much wine tonight. Lol!

 

[Magnum PD]

Well apparently he did. I'm beginning to wonder about Magnum's smarts. Doesn't research this or understand fully beforehand, doesn't listen to great advice in this thread, then gets SAE 30 because he doesn't feel that what people are telling him will work...

Heck, I guess I shouldn't expect much from someone who goes on the local news to complain about thieves stealing his tools from an unsecured building with windows broken out... I mean come on, if its really that valuable, secure it and don't complain about it if you don't. But that's just me using common sense!!

1-I didn't get SAE 30
2-I didn't call the local news about my tools. They saw the police report, then they called me and WANTED to do the report.
3-No I'm not the smartest guy on here, I'll admit that. I'm not a professional engine rebuilder. I asked as many people that I could about breaking in the engine. Had another thread about it. One guy says just drive it, the next guy says drive the dog sh!t out off it. I don't have an engine dyno to do different loads, rpm's, wait times and such.

My thinking of using lighter weight oil was to let the rings have more friction to set themselves instead of using a higher grade oil that would take longer for them to set.
I got a family that comes first when it comes to money. I do extra stuff on the side to make money. It took me about 5 years to get everything that I wanted in the engine. Did as much as I could by myself. Left the professional work to them. Took engine out by myself and one helper putting back in. Made turbo mount, fab intercooler pipes myself except for TIG welding turbo flange.
I take pride in popping the hood and saying "That's my work"

Pity party over

 

[ja_cain]

How many miles do you have on it now? Did you do any extended idling since reassembly? Engine rpm should be varied under some kind of load (not done in park). Expansion and contraction of the metal helps in break in. If rings are plasma coated, then they could take longer to break in. I would take it someplace like a large parking lot so you can hold it in first gear and rev it out to close to redline and then let the truck compression break. Do this as much as you can after the first 100 miles. Once you have 1000 miles on it, find something moderate to tow and drive around like that as much as you can. No load driving can be bad due to deposits being formed on the walls thus inhibiting break in. Alternatively, too much load in the beginning could potentially lead to glazing. No bueno if that happens. Have an oil analysis done to look at fuel dilution. This should tell you if you are not getting good ring seal. Also, call swamps and ask them what their recommended engine break in procedure is.

 

[Magnum PD]

Got over a 1000 miles on it now

 

[gnxtc2]

I would call the engine builder.

Billy T.
[email protected]

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[jimdawg185]

The guys at Swamps are really knowledgeable. Calling Dave might be a good idea. It's probably not at the miles yet to be concerned. But I'd leave that call up to him.


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[ja_cain]

The guys at Swamps are really knowledgeable. Calling Dave might be a good idea. It's probably not at the miles yet to be concerned. But I'd leave that call up to him.


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What break in procedure do you guys use on your test rigs after a rebuild? Also, do you use assembly lube or an external oil pump to prelube everything?

If Swamps doesn't really provide any resolution, I would just hook a moderately loaded trailer to it and put some miles on it. It might just need to be worked. I'm pretty sure the 7.3's have a ring with a very hard surface and may just need more time to seat.

 

[lincolnlocker]

What break in procedure do you guys use on your test rigs after a rebuild? Also, do you use assembly lube or an external oil pump to prelube everything?

he's just a oil rep.. he knows nothing about engines..

live life full throttle

 

[lincolnlocker]

lmao!

live life full throttle

 

[jimdawg185]

Depends on the power plant. Assembly lube is used, but which one depends on the guy doing the work. We do all our testing at truck shops. Limited lab testing engines. Mostly because the real world throws so many more variables at the equipment you can not re create in a lab. I can't publish who though, but lets just say they kill more chickens than china has people each day.... Break in is done with who ever happens to supply the shops fuel. Usually Chevron URSA or Mobil Elite or Rimula. 10k miles usually does the trick.


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[jimdawg185]

he's just a oil rep.. he knows nothing about engines..

live life full throttle

Thanks...


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[lincolnlocker]

Thanks...


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love you man! haha

live life full throttle

 

[ja_cain]

Lol! My brother is a PhD engineer for Afton/New Market. He's also a superstar there and I still school him on this chit (not saying i really know anything). He does pick stuff up real quick though and together we have been learning more. It helps that he double majored in Mechanical and Chemical engineering as an undergrad. I told him it would come in handy one day (to complete his MechE degree).

I'm going to try and find out what their break in procedure is for both the engine test rigs and their fleet test rigs when I have a chance. Will post up here if he says it's ok.

 

[jimdawg185]

I know you're just ****in with me. It's funny because it's usually true. Most oil guy's are useless, and that includes some of my reps as well.


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[ja_cain]

Depends on the power plant. Assembly lube is used, but which one depends on the guy doing the work. We do all our testing at truck shops. Limited lab testing engines. Mostly because the real world throws so many more variables at the equipment you can not re create in a lab. I can't publish who though, but lets just say they kill more chickens than china has people each day.... Break in is done with who ever happens to supply the shops fuel. Usually Chevron URSA or Mobil Elite or Rimula. 10k miles usually does the trick.


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Thanks for sharing that. I'm not sure what Afton does, but will try to find out.

 

[lincolnlocker]

I know you're just ****in with me. It's funny because it's usually true. Most oil guy's are useless, and that includes some of my reps as well.


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thats sad!

live life full throttle

 

[Magnum PD]

Surprise Surprise

Put 15/40 HD conventional oil in and truck runs smoother and is more quite.

 

[taterthedog]

Good news.


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[elrodalexander73]

When I built mine, I used Mahle Moly rings... They were a lower tension ring and took about 5k miles to seat... Dave on here may know the man that schooled me on this being he used to work at Grooms in Nashville years back, he told me change it at 500 miles.. Then change it again at 2500 miles.. Then again at 5k... My blowby is very little and I don't even use the G.P to start the ol brat..