Double Aught F-250 Resto-mod

[twisthappyr6]

Pic of the rear complete and torqued. Cheers to that


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[DieselDC]

What you see there is a shoe box - wife’s new shoe box. Eating peanuts and drinking bud light - she don’t want me to make a mess sheshhhh


Cheers!


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[twisthappyr6]

When the radius arm brackets are installed there is a perfect 1/4" gap between the bracket and the frame. The guy who's thread I followed cut out a piece of 1/4 plate and heated and bent it to conform to the shape of the bracket because of a slight angle that contours the frame rail. I lucked out and ended up with two sets of radius arm brackets. I used the worst pair to cut the already contoured piece of the bracket off then bolted and welded it to the bracket to be used on the truck. Hard to understand how I'm describing it but you can probably get it if you look at the picture close.


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[twisthappyr6]

What you see there is a shoe box - wife’s new shoe box. Eating peanuts and drinking bud light - she don’t want me to make a mess sheshhhh


Cheers!


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Lol, she probably keeps the other two nuts in her purse.


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[twisthappyr6]

Drivers side bolted up


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[twisthappyr6]

Passenger side bucket in which was a breeze. Literally look 10 min including drilling holes. I think 4 out of seven match up fine


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[twisthappyr6]

To touch on this side again, I forgot to mention brake line issues. You can see in the picture where the existing line used to run, and where I needed to go with the new axle. The existing brake hose was essentially a T that connected the master cylinder + front driver and passenger together. I replaced the existing hose with a 3/16" standard thread inverted flare T and ran a new line over to the front side of the bucket. The picture shows the line ran all the way down to the bottom of the frame to anticipate for extra travel for the line. I ended up cutting the line back to where my markup line stops and mounted the new bracket in the existing brake line bracket hole that's threaded into the bucket.
I also forgot to mention I installed a new red head steering gear pre tapped for hydraulic assist, all new power steering hoses, and did a power steering flush using royal purple synthetic ATF.


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[DieselDC]

You taking your time with this - chit will not rust or at least last longer than normal ! I don’t know drinking all that beer you (I won’t) be able to paint straight lol.


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[Vader's Fury]

I need to get the PMF front hangers for 08 springs. Nice how that way you can keep parking brake bracket.

 

[twisthappyr6]

You taking your time with this - chit will not rust or at least last longer than normal ! I don’t know drinking all that beer you (I won’t) be able to paint straight lol.


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Lol, your right. There was a buncha beer drank over the coarse of this.

As far as taking my time goes your right there too. This is the first project I've done where I've tried taking my time and doing it right the first time. Normally I don't have the money and patience to do it right, and my projects just get thrown together, or my classic move, unfinished. My budget does limit me on doing some things how I really wanted to. I would have much rather pulled the cab and cleaned the entire frame and running gear, but I don't have the resources or budget to make it happen. I have a car I drive back and forth to work, so that also helps with the truck being able to stay down for a while.


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[twisthappyr6]

I need to get the PMF front hangers for 08 springs. Nice how that way you can keep parking brake bracket.

Yeah they are pretty sweet. My opinion well worth 300 bucks for what you get. The pictures don't do them justice for how robust they are.


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[twisthappyr6]

The majority of the suspension is done, still need to mount my front sway bar, purchase a new set of locking hubs, remove the old front hangers and clean the frame horn up.
Something else to consider, the Dana 60 carrier housing is approximately an inch longer than my old Dana 50. What's this mean? My driveshaft is to dang long. So I'll either have mine shortened or research if the 05+ companion flange at the transfer case if the same as mine. Either way I'll figure something out.


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[DieselDC]

Haha agreed! It looks really good so far - just make sure the paint has time to cake and harden properly or it will easily rub off.

My mechanic took my cab off and bent the bed rear passenger cab corner - cant see it unless you crawl underneath it but thats still bull if you ask me. Use a proper lift and it won’t happen - which I’m sure I don’t have a lift.

Then he installed the abs module and bent the pins (no speedo and abs). Headaches lol. It’s good you’re doing it yourself b/c you’re going to do it right and if you muck it up, you can live with it knowing you didn’t pay someone to screw things up haha.


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[DieselDC]

The majority of the suspension is done, still need to mount my front sway bar, purchase a new set of locking hubs, remove the old front hangers and clean the frame horn up.
Something else to consider, the Dana 60 carrier housing is approximately an inch longer than my old Dana 50. What's this mean? My driveshaft is to dang long. So I'll either have mine shortened or research if the 05+ companion flange at the transfer case if the same as mine. Either way I'll figure something out.


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The paint still looks pretty good for it’s age. I was looking for an ext cab like yours and I end up with two crew cabs - chit just my luck haha.


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[twisthappyr6]

My mechanic took my cab off and bent the bed rear passenger cab corner -

Yeah about that. I pulled the bed on mine and set it on the ground with out thinking about it. So I bet the bottom pinch welds on the rear and creased the inner fender close the to bottom. Definitely a rookie move. I have no clue what I was thinking, bad thing is I have about 20 pallets behind my shop I could have stacked and straddled the bed over. Life lessons....




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[twisthappyr6]

So now I have moved on to the performance phase of the build. I have the gauges and tuner installed so far. I ended up going with the glow shift 3 gauge kit from amazon. The reviews are questionable, but for the price they fit my budget. So far I like them, they look awesome but I don't really have any miles on them so time will tell if the quality will be long term. I went with the Hydra simply from a convenience aspect of being able to manipulate which tunes I want and what position when ever I want from my own laptop. Coming from a Hypertech Power Programer 3 that my dad bought new in 2000, to the Hydra tunes should be pretty noticeable.


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[DieselDC]

Okay my gauges are some chit name VDO or something like that and they still haven’t broke. I was looking at the one deal with 3 gauges in one. I’m going to get that for my 4x4 since the ones on the dually just won’t break.

About the hydra - make sure the key is out before you fiddle with it- don’t be a dumb (__!__) like me and burn two pcm s Then pay good money to have swamps fix it smh.



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[twisthappyr6]

About the hydra - make sure the key is out before you fiddle with it- don’t be a dumb (__!__) like me and burn two pcm s Then pay good money to have swamps fix it smh.



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Yeah apparently it's pretty easy to forget. It says it in big letters about a dozen times in their instructions.

This is the kit I ended up going with. I really want a riff raff F650 dash kit with a Hydra pod size tune selector to fit in one of the pod holes, plus a fuel pressure gauge. That's on my list of stuff I want but am running outta cash quick. Lol.


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[twisthappyr6]

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[DieselDC]

Yeah apparently it's pretty easy to forget. It says it in big letters about a dozen times in their instructions.

That's on my list of stuff I want but am running outta cash quick. Lol.


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Haha wasn’t the first time I was a dumb (__!__) - wife says I’m a fool all the time for it.

Yeah these diesels will set you back real quick. I also saved that kit you linked in my favorites as well but I’m leaning towards simplicity. Less gauges the better.



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