EGT?

[always-strokin]

basically bone stock neither of my trucks are gonna just "weld pistons" and even if it does, im not an idiot, i know how to fix things

And folks there you have it. If this guy thinks he's gonna fix welded pistons, I'm out. Good luck, littleredstroker.

You won't buy a gdam gauge for your truck ! Shows a lot about who you are. Buy a 12v instead

sent while looking at a hole in my block

:whs:

 

[89 Stroker]

And folks there you have it. If this guy thinks he's gonna fix welded pistons, I'm out. Good luck, littleredstroker.



:whs:

bye

 

[chromehound]

Your exhaust won't hurt anything.

As far as monitoring think of it as cheap insurance. Gauges help you know if something is starting to go bad before it goes. These things may not always be apparent to a driver no matter how long they've been driving or wrenching. How would you know if your uppipes are starting to leak, HPO is getting weak, you have low fuel pressure or a small boost leak? Thats where gauges come in handy to show you if something small is wrong before it becomes something big.

I used to never run gauges on my trucks but ever since I started using them I won't run any diesel truck -stock or not - without at least boost, EGT and tranny gauges (or an all-in-one monitor). By having gauges I've found when I've had boost leaks and a fuel pump going out before they caused issues.

Do you have to have gauges? No. Are they a good idea and a smart investment? Yes. A good gauge setup will run you ~$500 all said and done for trans, boost, EGT, mount pod, and misc stuff depending on brand and style.

Plus if you come onto a site and start posting questions about why this is/is not happening the first thing people are going to ask is what was your _____ gauge reading and if you say you don't have _____ gauge your going to hear "get one put in then get back to us". Same goes for a code puller of some sort - heck even a cheap auto store one is better than nothing. It all helps you in the end.

 

[89 Stroker]

Your exhaust won't hurt anything.

As far as monitoring think of it as cheap insurance. Gauges help you know if something is starting to go bad before it goes. These things may not always be apparent to a driver no matter how long they've been driving or wrenching. How would you know if your uppipes are starting to leak, HPO is getting weak, you have low fuel pressure or a small boost leak? Thats where gauges come in handy to show you if something small is wrong before it becomes something big.

I used to never run gauges on my trucks but ever since I started using them I won't run any diesel truck -stock or not - without at least boost, EGT and tranny gauges (or an all-in-one monitor). By having gauges I've found when I've had boost leaks and a fuel pump going out before they caused issues.

Do you have to have gauges? No. Are they a good idea and a smart investment? Yes. A good gauge setup will run you ~$500 all said and done for trans, boost, EGT, mount pod, and misc stuff depending on brand and style.

Plus if you come onto a site and start posting questions about why this is/is not happening the first thing people are going to ask is what was your _____ gauge reading and if you say you don't have _____ gauge your going to hear "get one put in then get back to us". Same goes for a code puller of some sort - heck even a cheap auto store one is better than nothing. It all helps you in the end.

i have a code puller, but dont have that much spare cash for gauges, also is the turbo whistle sort of deceiving?? meaning even though it whistles loud its not that much boost??

mine screams now but since i dont have gauges its hard to tell

 

[littleredstroker]

i have a code puller, but dont have that much spare cash for gauges, also is the turbo whistle sort of deceiving?? meaning even though it whistles loud its not that much boost??

mine screams now but since i dont have gauges its hard to tell

...

Wow.... U can whistle @ 12psi and at 22 psi. At 12 you have a problem. You can see this if u have a gauge... I thibk you would have better luck debating why its ok to oral coal vs why you don't need gauges

sent while looking at a hole in my block

 

[89 Stroker]

...

Wow.... U can whistle @ 12psi and at 22 psi. At 12 you have a problem. You can see this if u have a gauge... I thibk you would have better luck debating why its ok to oral coal vs why you don't need gauges

sent while looking at a hole in my block

what is the cheapest gauge to buy? and how would u install it

 

[PSD715]

Something from autozone probably. Of course it'll basically be a monthly bill replacing them. Don't shoot for the cheapest. Look for the best deal.

& I can't believe everyone has been this harsh about gauges without telling this guy to replace that despicable excuse for a downpipe. Seriously, do that first..

 

[chromehound]

Gloshift are the cheapest but I don't like them myself. I've run Isspro and Autometers with no issues. You can just do them one at a time - EGT followed by trans then boost followed by anything else you want. The trans only applies if you have an auto. Just figure out how you want to mount them and spend the coin on that at the same time as the first gauge unless you want them mounted in seperate locations.

EGT is drilled and tapped into drivers side exhaust manifold right before the uppipe. A good pyro will run you ~$150 + the tap if you don't have one.

Heres all 3 (if you have an auto):
http://www.dieselmanor.com/gauges/ford_kits/dm-gkf-rxx39497.asp

More choices:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/gauges/ford_kits/gaugekits_ford_9497.asp

Here's the Z series I've run in two trucks-you can get them through most any auto parts store:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugesearch.aspx

Just the Z series pyro:
http://www.genosgarage.com/Z-SERIES-2-EGT-GAUGE-0-1600-W_STREET-SERIES-PROBE/productinfo/AM-2654+Z/

Drill bit and tap kit:
http://www.genosgarage.com/1_8-NPT-TAP-KIT/productinfo/KIT-NPTTAP/


You can get most all of this stuff from most any of the site sponsers - these are just some that I know of real fast.

 

[89 Stroker]

what would be the most important gauge to get atm? cause i dont have the funds to do all of them

 

[Justin@DP-Tuner]

what does a pyro do??

that was my main concern, i don't wanna blow up the turbo or break anything, it still has the stock down pipe or at least said ford on it then goes to a magnaflow exhaust, i dont abuse the truck and floor it everywhere and the max i tow is maybe 5k

It monitors the temperature of the combustion gases coming out of the cylinder. This is important because your pistons are aluminum and they have a melting point which is easily reachable if something goes wrong or if you have a problem.

The downpipe on an OBS is the biggest flaw. It is flattened out to a pancake and does not flow well at all.

Ok... its not my truck. When somebody your pistons weld to the cylinders, dont say we didn't tell you.

The biggest issue and concern is not welding them, but melting them instead.

when that day comes i will admit i am wrong and was an idiot for not listening

basically bone stock neither of my trucks are gonna just "weld pistons" and even if it does, im not an idiot, i know how to fix things

While you may know how to fix the problem, it will likely cost more than you paid for your truck.

A egt gauge is always a great idea, I've had stock trucks run hot from time to time. Anytime you chip it you should put gauges on it. Any chip, or tuner can make temps higher.
I'm not fully sure what is a safe egt temp for trucks, I've seen the duramax's motors hold 1400-1500* daily and live.

1250* is usually the general rule of thumb to stay on the safe side. Spikes above that are okay, but should not be sustained.

i have a code puller, but dont have that much spare cash for gauges, also is the turbo whistle sort of deceiving?? meaning even though it whistles loud its not that much boost??

mine screams now but since i dont have gauges its hard to tell

With a straight pipe, you will hear the whistle even at idle. Sound really is not a good indicator at all. A boost gauge, or something that will watch MAP/MGP is the only way to know for sure how much boost you are making.

what would be the most important gauge to get atm? cause i dont have the funds to do all of them

EGT(pyro) is the most important by far.

 

[89 Stroker]

heres a short vid of what it sounds like

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDUKiKobot0&feature=youtu.be

 

[chromehound]

EGT(pyro) is the most important by far.

:whs:

I'd follow that up with the tranny temp gauge if you have an auto - if not then boost, HPO pressure or fuel pressure. It's really just personal preferance but the EGT is #1.

I'd be even more concerned about the EGTs since you do pull a trailer. It dosen't matter if it's only 5k it's still going to be extra load to get/maintain moving and that means higher EGTs and you really need to know how hard your pushing your motor.

 

[89 Stroker]

:whs:

I'd follow that up with the tranny temp gauge if you have an auto - if not then boost, HPO pressure or fuel pressure. It's really just personal preferance but the EGT is #1.

I'd be even more concerned about the EGTs since you do pull a trailer. It dosen't matter if it's only 5k it's still going to be extra load to get/maintain moving and that means higher EGTs and you really need to know how hard your pushing your motor.

i know im not pushing it THAT hard theres only a few hills witch besides maybe one you guys around here would call them speed bumps

wheres the best place to get a pyro? for a cheap/do able price

 

[PSD715]

Beans has isspro pyros for ~$160

 

[89 Stroker]

Beans has isspro pyros for ~$160

can u provide a link?

iv tired searching them and have a hard time

 

[chromehound]

Most of the site sponsors or check the post with the links I put up. The last 2 are for an Autometer Z series pyro and a drill bit/tap if you need it.

Just remember you get what you pay for so unless you want to keep throwing $$$ at gauges just save up and buy the good ones. I'm guessing you have been running without them for a while now so another couple of weeks/months shouldn't hurt anything.

How do you know you're not pushing it that hard? Without gauges you don't. The truck may drive/sound/act fine but you could be at or past "safe" limits and not know it. I used to be just like you until I destroyed my 4R in my '01. I never thought I was pushing it to hard - even pulling a 1066 on a 32' deck over GN but I had abused my trans enough that one day she just let go and left me sitting. I'm glad it wasn't the engine and that the truck ran/drove after a new trans and gauges but I was suprised at how quick the EGTs and trans temps would go up even when I wasn't pushing the truck.

 

[89 Stroker]

Most of the site sponsors or check the post with the links I put up. The last 2 are for an Autometer Z series pyro and a drill bit/tap if you need it.

Just remember you get what you pay for so unless you want to keep throwing $$$ at gauges just save up and buy the good ones. I'm guessing you have been running without them for a while now so another couple of weeks/months shouldn't hurt anything.

How do you know you're not pushing it that hard? Without gauges you don't. The truck may drive/sound/act fine but you could be at or past "safe" limits and not know it. I used to be just like you until I destroyed my 4R in my '01. I never thought I was pushing it to hard - even pulling a 1066 on a 32' deck over GN but I had abused my trans enough that one day she just let go and left me sitting. I'm glad it wasn't the engine and that the truck ran/drove after a new trans and gauges but I was suprised at how quick the EGTs and trans temps would go up even when I wasn't pushing the truck.

im sure the trans gets hot but im sure that trailer weighted alot more then 5K

and no i have never ran gauges

 

[chromehound]

Oh heck I think the tractor was close to 8-10k alone. My point was that I didn't think I was pushing anything hard. I drove slower and stayed out of OD until I was up to speed and shifted back out of OD when I needed to climb grade and still trashed the trans because I wasn't monitoring things. Who knows what my EGTs were and what damage I may have been doing to the motor.

After I put the gauges in I could easy get my pyro to 1100-1200* just pulling a small 773 Bobcat around in the summer if I didn't pay attention. And heck playing around unloaded I could get it toasty if I stayed in it hard. All that on a stock motor.

With my 12v and basic pump mods I could get to 1100+ unloaded just screwing around or getting on it to merge onto the interstate.

The point is without gauges you don't know what is going on. Buy what you can afford when you can afford it. You'll just be helping yourself.

 

[littleredstroker]

Fyi... My trans saw 200* cruising @ highway speed with a trailer 210-225 ... Didn't know that before gauges. Factory temp gauge in the dash never moved.

sent while looking at a hole in my block

 

[89 Stroker]

Fyi... My trans saw 200* cruising @ highway speed with a trailer 210-225 ... Didn't know that before gauges. Factory temp gauge in the dash never moved.

sent while looking at a hole in my block

only have a oil pressure gauge and engine temp besides the basics, engine only moves when towing alot up a certain hill

would the ford dealer have recommended a gauge put on an E40d