Engine Knock.

Brad.S.19

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The past week and a half it has been lacking power till warm been keeping it under 2k RPM till then after that it is alright. But it has a knock on the pass side cyl bank fair amount of blow by out the fill cap, suction at the fill cap and bubbles on the dip stick. Just to merge on the Highway I literately have to floor it to get up to 65 from 40 now.
I have to down shift to maintain speed up hills and such where I never had to before. Just today I have driven about 30 miles and it is running like ***kin sh*t it does not want to go above 40-45 or 2k RPM without being bitchy.
 

Brad.S.19

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On another note there is a engine has 120k 2000 for 700 bucks but I am going to get a compression tester tomorrow first. Got some vids after I got it to temp from running to the store maybe it will explain more but this truck is Pandoras Whore now.
 

Brad.S.19

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I am goin to do the test today, How do I disconnect the Injectors as I plan on running a cranking based test.
 

ToMang07

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IIRC just unplug the big 42 pin connector under the intake and remove the glow plugs.

I just thought of this Brad.... I think I actually have a diesel compression tester....I just can't remember if I have the right adapter for the glow plug holes.

You're welcome to borrow it if you want, it's a HF special.
 

Brad.S.19

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IIRC just unplug the big 42 pin connector under the intake and remove the glow plugs.

I just thought of this Brad.... I think I actually have a diesel compression tester....I just can't remember if I have the right adapter for the glow plug holes.

You're welcome to borrow it if you want, it's a HF special.

Thanks I just bought one @ Harbor Freight #93644 diesel rated up to 1000 PSI it is spec'd for navistar 6.9-7.3 IIRC for the correct fitting(s) and I also looked at the compression thread so I will be doing the adapter based off that. The actual plug itself is not very big in size in terms of height. I am not sure if I should be concerned about the clearance of any moving parts. I may have to get some female adapters and 90* bends once I get into it and I did purchase a grease tube rated for 3000 PSI if I need it hope that is enough.

Just waiting for this god forsaken heat and humidity to pass tonight then I will dig into it and get the results. I did drive it around today the "knock" was less noticeable at idle then when warm it was gone. Once up to temp I did the oil fill cap again and got completely different results it kept trying to blow it off this time to some extent. I am going to need Injectors deff I hope that is all.
 

Brad.S.19

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Attempted my comp test yesterday, Did not go as planned kinda at a loss now. Basically it took about two hours to remove the valve covers and compression tester I have is not going to work easily I cannot find a way to make a extension to go between the rockers with enough clearance. The UVCH is shot worse than I thought and I do have a AE LL on #8 already also what should I be looking for as in signs of wear tear/ damage etc. The valve train looks almost perfect but I do not know what to look for specifically.

I have tried using grease gun tube with 1/8 pipe to m10-1.0 o-ring hydro fitting and no success.
 

Brad.S.19

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A little update as of right now I ended up swapping 3 and 5 around the knock followed with #5 I pulled the rockers and rods out straight as a arrow minimal wear if any at all. As for the compression test the position of the rockers and the tester it was not going to happen I am going to have to think something up. I am almost positive but some may disagree but I am cool with that it is solely electrical and exhaust leak related. Because the up pipe doughnuts are gone fire wall and surrounding is covered in soot the uvch, 42-pin harness and idm is lacking dielectric grease, heavily corroded and poor resistance/ohms. The main injection harness with the ipr, icp, eot and various other sensors is spliced and or has damage that was poorly repaired when it was performed.

The oil leaks I am experiencing are from the turbo pedestal being improperly sealed or improper gasket possibly and the EBPV seals are shot as well. The harness and idm issue was done by a local ford dealership back in 2009 I have a call/meeting with the service manager to verify and possibly reduce the price of the parts if it is under fords responsibility. I am on the thought process that this engine may have been rebuilt at some point or is a rebuilt replacement because It is lacking a engine serial # and looks to have fresh machining.

I know my #5 inj is shot but since I cleaned all the connections and made sure they have good continuity it runs a lot better blows the cap off now. It could be better needs a few sensors, inj, more fluids, manis upipes and wiring should be good. I keep popping my IC boots I got it back together last night did two and broke a clamp on the third as soon as it lights it pops one usually the hot side now the cold side.
 

Brad.S.19

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So, question. Why do you have a call, to see about having the price of parts reduced, on a problem that was fixed 6 years ago??

Yes kinda based on the fact I cannot get the one harness I need and the dealership replaced it under warranty while still managing to mess it up. But they cannot help me out since ford no longer makes the parts I was honestly looking for a reduced price versus free stuff I do not like doing that since it was over warranty by 3 months. It is what it is now I just need to find one.
 

Brad.S.19

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Since pulling everything apart and putting back together, It is a bad IDM(p1298) w/ koeo injector buzz test, #5 injector has a skip @ Idle-1200RPM no smoke, UVCH issues, eps/tube and exhaust leaks on the manifolds and up-pipes to create loss of ability to build boost easily.
I still have OE FICM should that be a proactive upgrade along with the IDM?
I have traced a lot of the wiring already the aftermarket remote starter is causing headaches it was run through the battery kill relay and then I do not know where.

With #8 already having the AE LL the fuel pressure/supply demand needs to be increased. A healthy dose of quality filters and fluids is needed probably a damn good flush of the block with detergent based oil/coolant again.
 

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If the oil cap blows off when running, stop spending money on the motor. You are having huge compression issues. The only way pressure gets into the crankcase is by "blowing by" the rings. Hence the term BLOWBY.
 

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