Yea one just to get it to spool and another to clean up some of that fuel lol
Engine Knock.
- Thread starter Brad.S.19
- Start date
Yea one just to get it to spool and another to clean up some of that fuel lol
HAHA I meant 400hp/800tq, But I need to get the ***ker running right first then start on the block great machining, balancing and parts take A LOT of time and some money. It smells like raw fuel when I start it as of now, What is the stock injector solenoid code?
ad183115153(something like that iirc) and ae 8LL is what I have not sure if that matters just being very erratic atm. The long block is looking more like a pipe dream now or at least later down the road I fix one thing another pops up or I chase one issue fix it two more pop up. My father found a old registration paper in the glove box showing it was last reg in 2009 so I feel it is safe to say it has been sitting for a Long time.
Side note dug into the wiring some found a SP Diesel exhaust brake controller box but all connections to the engine where unplugged with no location. It was tied into my front brakes and remote starter via the parking brake. Need some info on these looked briefly into them could not find much I do not know much about exhaust brakes in general. Would I have upgraded parts to use it properly? If so what should I look for and where/how or any issues I may encounter, how they are hooked up and tied into transmission.
Next the remote starter is a avital and there is a yora 611T valet? The problem I having is that when it was installed the person tied it into the column, parking/service brakes, brake solenoid, multiple wires have splices throughout the entire length into the fire wall by the brakes/power steering and I was wrong on the relay it was tied into not sure where it would be tied into now. I want to remove it as I have had to break into my truck once before it locked me out while it was running with the pod in my pocket. I wish to install a "kill anti thief switch" in some sort of manner.
With the two above sections I would like to know ONE.) brake splices should I just run a new piece of full length wire to replace the spliced one. TWO.) The remote starter it is tied into 10-12 wires currently with any removal is there any systems that could be effected by improper repair? THREE.) Adding more than the factory intended, CB, Invertor, 2 8" lights, 30" light bar, Winch, sound system and a compressor as a example for now I have no intentions yet but plan to I want the wiring up to par Four.) Lift pumps filters FASS, air dog, fuel lab and dahl then non filtered just the pump what is cost benefit or loss from no filter or having one. Five.) Then brakes and wheels(racelines or stockers) Six.) Benefit from a compressor wheel or modified housing. Seven.) Charge pipes, IC pipes need a set stock or after market not sure yet.
ad183115153(something like that iirc) and ae 8LL is what I have not sure if that matters just being very erratic atm. The long block is looking more like a pipe dream now or at least later down the road I fix one thing another pops up or I chase one issue fix it two more pop up. My father found a old registration paper in the glove box showing it was last reg in 2009 so I feel it is safe to say it has been sitting for a Long time.
Side note dug into the wiring some found a SP Diesel exhaust brake controller box but all connections to the engine where unplugged with no location. It was tied into my front brakes and remote starter via the parking brake. Need some info on these looked briefly into them could not find much I do not know much about exhaust brakes in general. Would I have upgraded parts to use it properly? If so what should I look for and where/how or any issues I may encounter, how they are hooked up and tied into transmission.
Next the remote starter is a avital and there is a yora 611T valet? The problem I having is that when it was installed the person tied it into the column, parking/service brakes, brake solenoid, multiple wires have splices throughout the entire length into the fire wall by the brakes/power steering and I was wrong on the relay it was tied into not sure where it would be tied into now. I want to remove it as I have had to break into my truck once before it locked me out while it was running with the pod in my pocket. I wish to install a "kill anti thief switch" in some sort of manner.
With the two above sections I would like to know ONE.) brake splices should I just run a new piece of full length wire to replace the spliced one. TWO.) The remote starter it is tied into 10-12 wires currently with any removal is there any systems that could be effected by improper repair? THREE.) Adding more than the factory intended, CB, Invertor, 2 8" lights, 30" light bar, Winch, sound system and a compressor as a example for now I have no intentions yet but plan to I want the wiring up to par Four.) Lift pumps filters FASS, air dog, fuel lab and dahl then non filtered just the pump what is cost benefit or loss from no filter or having one. Five.) Then brakes and wheels(racelines or stockers) Six.) Benefit from a compressor wheel or modified housing. Seven.) Charge pipes, IC pipes need a set stock or after market not sure yet.
Personally, I would rip out anything that was not factory and repair any damage that crap caused. At that point, I would then add back in what, if any thing, you wanted to keep and anything new you wish to have. You have no idea how or what was properly/improperly done. Start with a clean sheet to know for certain, before you start, that all the OEM electrical checks out.
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That was my plan, But when it comes to where they spliced the power lines or grounds for the brakes should I just replace versus repair it. The other stuff I can deal with shrink tube, electrical tape and the tape in a can stuff. If I put it back in it will be either of ford make or of similar quality.
Do you have any recommendations for brakes I was thinking power stop calipers, motorcraft alloy rotors, bendix ceramic pads, pmf braided lines, motorcraft master if needed, delo dot4 blue, motorcraft rear rotors calipers bendix pads and copper alloy lines where is needed. I went through the set of pads in 3300 miles they were new when I bought the truck 7/8" to 1/4" the rotors are way out of spec probably a 1/32" of a lip on the front need a micrometer for the rear.
I also have a another question as the days get cooler when I start er up grey/whiteish acrid raw fuel smelling puff of smoke comes out now makes your eyes water/burn and lungs burn some. I did some research which indicates a dead injector if what I found is correct. I knew they were weak but not including a "dead" injector can I limp this along any longer until I sort a few other fuel/supply/electrical issues related to.
Many guys were disappointed with their aftermarket "performance" brake upgrades in hindsight. I have been around the block with these older superdutys and brakes are something that change in quality from place to place constantly. At one point I was using oreilly brake stuff. Now its horrendous. I am impressed with my newest calipers on my front end. Came from Napa. They have a black textured paint on them. I like Bosch quietcast rotors too. I need to do my rear and all the lines and I think my abs module is shtting the bed.
At most on the brakes I would use ATE Type 200 brake fluid the add some hawk hd pads swap out old stock soft lines going to the calipers with SS braided versions, as it will hold pressure and not swell, but that is as far as I would go with the stock system.
Beyond that the only large improvements I have ever noticed compared to a stock system that was properly setup required replacing the actual calipers and or rotors with more powerful / larger versions respectively. Now to do that usually takes larger wheels to clear the larger rotor/calipers.
On the electrical stuff, sure the ideal would be to replace harnesses where needed and only leave if you do not have to re-splice the harness back together. The biggest thing is do not halfass it. Use proper high quality splice connectors and solder where you can as well. You do not want to see amp drops over a run compared to stock.
Beyond that the only large improvements I have ever noticed compared to a stock system that was properly setup required replacing the actual calipers and or rotors with more powerful / larger versions respectively. Now to do that usually takes larger wheels to clear the larger rotor/calipers.
On the electrical stuff, sure the ideal would be to replace harnesses where needed and only leave if you do not have to re-splice the harness back together. The biggest thing is do not halfass it. Use proper high quality splice connectors and solder where you can as well. You do not want to see amp drops over a run compared to stock.
As for the electrical I spoke with a place that installs the style remote starter I have calling it "amateur at best" with advice saying leave the brake side alone that is correct but work on the rest where it is needed. Blower motor is works intermittent or when it wants to other than that it is fine.
I am getting really pissed at the way it runs so my buddy and I did another cylinder contribution test, buzz test and idm codes came back clean as a whistle did it again p1298 idm failure still runs. Got it to temp took a very worn out 5 dollar bill blocked my ccv reroute would barely flutter/move the bill any decided to but it to 1500 rpm same thing, we could not connect to the pcm unless the the year was set @ 2002 and truck was running with the driver side neg term disconnected and the parking brake set with foot on the brake no wts used.
Next his father looked at few things a couple phone calls later a 2002 based pcm, idm and engine codes/build date unknown miles on the block and heads a lot of conflicting issues that make it difficult to connect my vin is a early 2001 oct 24 2000. It is a forged rod.
Honestly anything with this truck right now would not surprise me at all for all I know I could have liberal tears coated pistons and a baby unicorn partial filled block with a Jameson spout.
I was thinking of going with a raceline wheels for now based on cost and I have never heard bad things about them. I would prefer to stick with 16s but I like the 17-20s also I do not plan on running 35s anymore just sticking with a 33/12.50 or 295-305 based tire. I am at the point now I am going to fix it keep it near stock levels make a decent daily driver/ tow rig. I am just going to stick with 160cc/stock or 30% overs and a gtp38r later on with a 1.15 a/r and supporting stuff it will be more cost effective this way now. Then save for a down payment on a 6.7, some land, college bills and tools, I have 11 days to fix everything before I leave for school any tips besides red bull, rockstar, black coffee and kiss my bed bye for the next few days on how to best attack this.
I was thinking of going with a raceline wheels for now based on cost and I have never heard bad things about them. I would prefer to stick with 16s but I like the 17-20s also I do not plan on running 35s anymore just sticking with a 33/12.50 or 295-305 based tire. I am at the point now I am going to fix it keep it near stock levels make a decent daily driver/ tow rig. I am just going to stick with 160cc/stock or 30% overs and a gtp38r later on with a 1.15 a/r and supporting stuff it will be more cost effective this way now. Then save for a down payment on a 6.7, some land, college bills and tools, I have 11 days to fix everything before I leave for school any tips besides red bull, rockstar, black coffee and kiss my bed bye for the next few days on how to best attack this.
***k that been there done that. LOL
Just filled the tank up, 639 miles to a tune of 33 gallons of fuel so I averaged 19 mpg, I think that's wrong but since I fixed up some of the wiring and other issues related to that it runs better now. I think some where something was interfering with something else. I do need some more info on the 75k idm mod as some issues point to that of being my idm faults.
Sent while speeding pushing little cars of the road and eating a burger.
Sent while speeding pushing little cars of the road and eating a burger.
Arisley
Moderator
Undo all those resister mods. All they do is lie to stuff and make it do weird stuff to attempt to get to normal. A good tune will do everything you need, the way it needs to be done.
X2 on the napa black calipers and Bosch rotors. Did you know you can get a loaded caliper minus the pads from napa for 57bux!
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Good to know as all the IDM fault codes are from said mod as I did not perform it or have no info on the person(s) who did, I feel it maybe just to replace it. The most recent one is a p0605 dtc scan and injector buzz test which results in a p1298 and the p0605 replace pcm but still runs and drives. Overall the mod is messing up a lot of things right now causing poor running and lack of fuel delivery/pressure. How do I remove the resistors anyways or would it be better to replace it with a swamps IDM and gearhead tuning? Call it a done deal for now with that stuff and do some more scans with that sh*t gone.
I have since repaired some wiring that had power issues that was not up to spec per ford, the removal of the exhaust brake and lighter syn oil has drastically improved the running aspect of the engine but the "knock" is one tricky ***ker after changing the oil cleaning the wiring up the knock is only cold starts with certain weather patterns. The wastgate is going off wicked early now since I worked on the wiring I.E. I usually avg 1900-2100 rpm from a stop light as when it shifts it goes of every damn time.
I was going with the napa blacks, Hawk ceramic pads, bosch rotors, ate 200 blue fluid and pmf braided lines, bilstein shocks and rancho 9000 single.
Raceline renegade 8 16x10 wrapped with 285/75r16 toyo a/t II
Non-ebpv pedestal, cat elc 6yr/600k, coolant filter, 203 t-stat, any bad injectors, manifolds, riff raff up-pipes, hutch harpoon, gauges and what ever the *** I may need.
I have since repaired some wiring that had power issues that was not up to spec per ford, the removal of the exhaust brake and lighter syn oil has drastically improved the running aspect of the engine but the "knock" is one tricky ***ker after changing the oil cleaning the wiring up the knock is only cold starts with certain weather patterns. The wastgate is going off wicked early now since I worked on the wiring I.E. I usually avg 1900-2100 rpm from a stop light as when it shifts it goes of every damn time.
I was going with the napa blacks, Hawk ceramic pads, bosch rotors, ate 200 blue fluid and pmf braided lines, bilstein shocks and rancho 9000 single.
Raceline renegade 8 16x10 wrapped with 285/75r16 toyo a/t II
Non-ebpv pedestal, cat elc 6yr/600k, coolant filter, 203 t-stat, any bad injectors, manifolds, riff raff up-pipes, hutch harpoon, gauges and what ever the *** I may need.
