Engine Knock.
- Thread starter Brad.S.19
- Start date
NOOOOO! Sorry for my piss poor wording and explanation of it. I am getting a light steady stream of "crank case gasses" and it will NOT blow off the fill cap when inverted. It will vibrate off and that is it, I suck at English so please bear with me. I basically have a host of electrical issues from my IDM to UVCH has zero grease in the connections now after 6 years in New England the corrosion has found its way in. What I really need right now is a 42-pin connector and harness really badly to correct some connection issues. I keep blowing IC boots and broke a t-bolt clamp when one popped not sure how. When I start the truck I really do not notice any "crank case gasses" until it warms up a fair amount pretty much almost to operating temp on a 60* morning.
But seriously I was thinking a upgraded IDM from swamps or somewhere else I am going with gearhead tuning.
http://swampsdiesel.com/prestashop/...e-high-frequency-injection-driver-module.html
You will see a difference with a swamps idm. Worth the upgrade.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Yeah I fully agree with that, all the corrosion is in the plugs and on the pins I used connection cleaner and swabs/ a tiny electrical cleaning pick to remove it the best I could but still I am having continuity issues added dielectric grease even though its to far gone. The biggest issue I am having ford, sunrise, riff raff, rock auto and briefly on ebay I could not find the 42-pin harness which has the most amount of damage. I can get the pigtails uvch everything else except that one piece.
Arisley
Moderator
Wrecking yard.
I made pickles last night Andy.
The way to make that Harbor Freight tool #93644 ( 12 Piece Diesel Engine Compression Tester ) kit work is you need to pick up few parts but then you actually have to connect them up properly or it will not fit. Most make the mistake of trying to get the HF glow plug fitting to go in the glow plug port. It does not fit ( you could mod it but thats now how this setup works.) You are not using that part.
You need the following:
* M10x1 male oring boss to 1/8" NPT female fitting. Parker Store part #M10-1/8F8OHGS
* 1/8" NPT female to 1/8" NPT female fitting ( looks like threaded sleeve)
* Grease gun end whip ( you can get this at most hardware or auto stores as well as HF) It must be the one with 1/8 npt threaded ends (both ends) not with the QD end)
Now in the HF kit you will see the end attached to the gauge has a quick detach coupling fitting. You will also find a QD adapter fitting in that HF kit. They are the ones in the bottom row. You want the one that has the 1/8" female thread. I think its the second one in from the left ( bottom row of sliver fittings)
Ok now to assemble it:
We will start at the glow plug attachment and work back to the gauge.
Take the M10x1 o-ring boss to 1/8" female fitting and attach the 1/8" end to the grease whip.
On the other end of the grease whip attach the that 1/8 female to 1/8 female (sleeve) fitting.
On the other end of the sleeve fitting attach that QD to 1/8 fitting.
The QD fitting connects to the QD coupling on the end of the gauge assembly.
Here is how it should look. A picture is usually all it takes for the lights to come on LOL
Pic is not mine but one I pulled off the net for this post but other than the a couple fittings looking to be brass its identical
As you can see that 10x1 oring boss fitting is short and small attached to the whip it gives you all the room and clearance needed to wiggle it into any of the glow plug ports.
You need the following:
* M10x1 male oring boss to 1/8" NPT female fitting. Parker Store part #M10-1/8F8OHGS
* 1/8" NPT female to 1/8" NPT female fitting ( looks like threaded sleeve)
* Grease gun end whip ( you can get this at most hardware or auto stores as well as HF) It must be the one with 1/8 npt threaded ends (both ends) not with the QD end)
Now in the HF kit you will see the end attached to the gauge has a quick detach coupling fitting. You will also find a QD adapter fitting in that HF kit. They are the ones in the bottom row. You want the one that has the 1/8" female thread. I think its the second one in from the left ( bottom row of sliver fittings)
Ok now to assemble it:
We will start at the glow plug attachment and work back to the gauge.
Take the M10x1 o-ring boss to 1/8" female fitting and attach the 1/8" end to the grease whip.
On the other end of the grease whip attach the that 1/8 female to 1/8 female (sleeve) fitting.
On the other end of the sleeve fitting attach that QD to 1/8 fitting.
The QD fitting connects to the QD coupling on the end of the gauge assembly.
Here is how it should look. A picture is usually all it takes for the lights to come on LOL
Pic is not mine but one I pulled off the net for this post but other than the a couple fittings looking to be brass its identical
As you can see that 10x1 oring boss fitting is short and small attached to the whip it gives you all the room and clearance needed to wiggle it into any of the glow plug ports.
Okay borrowed a tester from a buddy, results from the pass side as follows had zero issues on the drivers side all 415 after 5 full cycles.
#1 410, #3 415, #5 415, #7 415
Running test #8 650 and #1 645 ish the rest where around 650
I think I may have a cracked injector cup or two.
Still lacking power till upper rpm, speedos off 5mph and knock is still present while cold on #5.
So I am thinking fuel filters in the tank are clogged and maybe IPR/ICP issues need more testing injectors have "haze" @ cold start over two days of sitting or below 60*. Another thought is weak fuel pressure and bad idm the other thought is fuel pump is worn.
Last thing I can build 2600-2700 icp @ 40% duty then it basically drops off a cliff automatically says no more pressure.
#1 410, #3 415, #5 415, #7 415
Running test #8 650 and #1 645 ish the rest where around 650
I think I may have a cracked injector cup or two.
Still lacking power till upper rpm, speedos off 5mph and knock is still present while cold on #5.
So I am thinking fuel filters in the tank are clogged and maybe IPR/ICP issues need more testing injectors have "haze" @ cold start over two days of sitting or below 60*. Another thought is weak fuel pressure and bad idm the other thought is fuel pump is worn.
Last thing I can build 2600-2700 icp @ 40% duty then it basically drops off a cliff automatically says no more pressure.
^I'm assuming you meant 4s, not 6s.
And if you had bad injector cups, I'd imagine you'd be losing/burning/mixing fluids that aren't meant to be mixed.
Do the tank mods (they are stupid cheap). And do a fuel system. That stock stuff is crap. I wish I would have done mine when the truck was new instead of waiting until it was ten years old. Good fuel and hpo make a stock truck run exceptionally well.
If those were actually 600s and thats not a mistake my thought would be oil leaking into the cylinder increasing the pressure. But at least that is sort of good news in terms of compression over all. Anything in the 400s especially with any kind of serious mileage is very good.
Stop trying to guess at the fuel pressure issues. Its as simple as getting a real gauge and rolling into the throttle after warmed up. If pressure does not drop way off fuel pressure and clogging is not the issue. Do not get me wrong IMO all trucks should change out the PU and QD fittings used on the feed side of the fuel pump. But thats not why its falling on its face on the top end.
It could also be as easy as your WG is leaking badly or blowing open. Wire it shut is the cheapest way to handle that.
Again when you consider how the truck was treated before you received it and the mileage along with numerous of the symptoms injectors or at the very least o rings are one place to start. Given the budget etc I would seriously consider some 30% A code injectors. If your HPOP can hold 2800+ psi now with some less hungry single shots it should be good and that saves you money on a hpop. The tunes can be made to save your tranny. Just enjoy your truck after that until something wears out and then you can decide whether to upgrade or.........
Stop trying to guess at the fuel pressure issues. Its as simple as getting a real gauge and rolling into the throttle after warmed up. If pressure does not drop way off fuel pressure and clogging is not the issue. Do not get me wrong IMO all trucks should change out the PU and QD fittings used on the feed side of the fuel pump. But thats not why its falling on its face on the top end.
It could also be as easy as your WG is leaking badly or blowing open. Wire it shut is the cheapest way to handle that.
Again when you consider how the truck was treated before you received it and the mileage along with numerous of the symptoms injectors or at the very least o rings are one place to start. Given the budget etc I would seriously consider some 30% A code injectors. If your HPOP can hold 2800+ psi now with some less hungry single shots it should be good and that saves you money on a hpop. The tunes can be made to save your tranny. Just enjoy your truck after that until something wears out and then you can decide whether to upgrade or.........
As of right now I am doing bare bones fluids filters, inj, idm, riff raff frx, fuel lab or fass pump with larger lines, toones, pedestal, boost tubes, front springs, riff raff bellowed pipes, need brakes cooked them last week, unlimited 160/stockers for now. I plan on building it to 400/800 with a GTX40-88r or precision based single.
Jason
New member
Boost tubes?? Wtf would you do that? And are you talking about 400/800 injectors, or 400hp/800tq? I didn't know they made 400/800's, if they did, I would imagine a 4088 would be a tad on the small side, if you are talking power wise...160/30's and a 38r, and leave out all the other stupid bullsht.
Arisley
Moderator
Get it running right first, before you go throwing thousands of dollars at it.
Skip the FRX it is a waste of time. Just do a regulated return and be done with the fuel system.
Skip the FRX it is a waste of time. Just do a regulated return and be done with the fuel system.
There are larger combos out there of injectors.
Jason
New member
I'm well aware there is bigger Tyronius, 800% nozzle is straight off the ballin chart doe. Even if it was 400/400's or 400/600's, I think a 4088 is going to need a friend or two to help it out. I could be wrong. I'm just trollin' so don't mind me tho.
Yea that charger would be ***king overwhelmed around idle. Lol
I cant really see much of the shti being practical...on a pull truck only. Something that has parallel compounds or a huuuge charger that spools at 2500rpm...
Arisley
Moderator
Or with a big ole' snort of nitrous.
