07_powerstroke
New member
Ok thanks for the info.
FICM Advice????
- Thread starter windrunner408
- Start date
Ok thanks for the info.
strokin6L
Active member
anything less than 45v isn't good. I've heard 45-46v is pretty much the limit.
I often see guys tell me they are getting 40V, but it's because they're reading with a scanner and not a multi-meter. In most cases the scanner's can't read less than 40V, so that's the voltage it shows even though it could be way less than that. A FICM at 40V should still have no issues getting the truck to start, but it would more than likely simulate sticky injectors until it got up to full operating temp.
yeehaw
New member
my stock FICM would read 48ish on the multimeter but would throw a CEL for low performance, it never loped or anything, but got sick of getting a light for it
wow, I'd love to hear more about this.
I checked our sales records, and sorted them by FICM, and then again by zip code.
I also looked up the zip code of Gogo's shop (I think it's Direct Injection Performance) in Florida...and then searched the 22 zip codes nearest his shop...and found one FICM that we did warranty...but we shipped it directly to the customer.
I also checked our ship manager software...which is integrated with our accounting software....and surprisingly...show no record of having ever shipping anything directly to DIP/Gogo...
while our FICM warranty rates are very low...well under 1% on either the 58v or 48v units...we do sell such a high quantity of units that there are, occasionally going to be issues. Despite our thorough rebuilding & testing procedure...we have, and (unfortunately) will continue to have the occasional warranty issue arise.
Heck, I know that we've overnighted warranty FICM's to Canada, Alaska...and even a few in the continental US...
If Doug/DIP/Gogo has warrantied these units (on our behalf?) without ever contacting us for replacement or even reimbursement...I'm truly grateful...
strokin6L
Active member
i plan on doing the 58v FICM from you guys at some point...hopefully by this next spring and have it tuned by either ID or KEM. Heard noting but great things from it.
I've seen the pics posted on his facebook, just a picture of a FICM opened up and the board burnt up. He said it was a Swamps unit, not sure if he even said if it was 48V or 58V.
Last edited:
strokin6L
Active member
Yup that's the pic i saw on dougs FB page.
Any idea what causes the melt down? Is it possibly just some bridged connections or something? I'm assuming these are tested for voltage before they leave your shop, so it's odd that it wouldn't happen until it's on a customers truck.
03-Blue-Powerstroke
New member
When it comes to the performance programming, on the 58V FICM, what all does that include? Would it work with a truck with stock injectors?
strokin6L
Active member
a 58v ficm, a tuned ficm or a 58v tuned ficm will work on any truck with any mods....even stock injectors. There are a bunch of guys running the 58v ficm with stock injectors.
I'm not an electrical engineer...though we now have one on staff, aside from the other electronics techs that work in the electronics department...so *I* can't say with certainty what caused(causes) the catastrophic meltdown of the circuit board...
I know that over the years that we have made leaps in reliability of all of our FICMs (that failed unit was from early 2010). We have since upgraded from 'fixing &/or modifying' failed FICMs, to now proactively replacing any & all under rated circuit board components, even on our HD48v FICM model.
Prior to any repair, we do load test the FICMs (basically forcing them into a very aggressive inductive heating cycle, while simultaneously firing 6.0L injs) to see how bad the unit is...we test them just to make sure that the FICM is, indeed bad...in the odd case that the customer may have something else going on with the truck..so we don't just dive in and replace parts.
If the FICM voltage drops during the initial testing, then the techs will crack it open and begin the rigorous tear-down process, removing & replacing over 30 independent circuit board hardware components. If that FICM is intended to be built as a 58v unit, then they would also do the necessary modification to increase the output voltage.
Once the hardware components are replaced, the techs determine which flash to install...be that the Ford flash, or the PHP flash. We use the customers' geographic location to choose the flash with the appropriate level of inductive heating, if he didn't chose the optional performance flash.
After the flash is programmed, then the FICM is re tested, again simulating the worse case scenario (by manipulating engine sensor sims) we force the FICM into a very high amperage load test for 15 minutes. During this test, the techs use one of the oscilloscopes to ensure that every on & off signal has the proper shape & waveform to properly trigger the injector solenoids.
Once the burn in is completed, then the unit is labeled, the cover plate is installed, and is boxed up & shipped.
The techs also water test the case & cover to ensure that no moisture can enter the case.
I do know that prior to starting the 'dunk test'...we did have some FICMs that arrived with coolant moisture inside the cases (most likely from customers doing the recommended voltage test w/ multimeter, and 'spilling' some coolant into the case)..
so I know that our procedures have adapted to account for scenarios previously not considered.
The coolant in the cases was something that took out a few FICMs...the techs now fully clean & dry the inside and outside of the case prior to submersing & testing them...
I'm sure there have been failures caused by slip ups on our end...but we're really trying to deliver a product that is better performing and more reliable than the factory units...
but, when they fail in a catastrophic manner, like the early build pictured..there really isn't any forensics to be done, LOL...
strokin6L
Active member
Thanks golfer for the info/feedback. I definitly want a 58v someday. I however will look into KEM tuning for it. So if i go that route...what flash would you load onto it....just the newest ford flash then?
strokin6L
Active member
anyone know what the symptoms are of a bad FICM...other than low voltage readings. I have good voltage readings, but just saturday the truck got a villant shake at start up when cold. It's the first time it has done this since i installed the casserly 190's three years ago. Always had 5w-40 with rev-x since then and 5w-30 with rev-x in the winter. And always ran 2 cycle oil with additive in the fuel. Just started it again a couple hours ago with outside temp 35*. I never had an issue....with any bad idle or shakes at start up with temps as low as the single digits. I really don't think it's the injectors cause the sound that the spool valves make when i key on are nice. When the truck is warm there is no bad idle or shake. It's just wierd how all of a sudden i aquired a bad idle over night. I have a spare stock FICM that came off of my buddy's '05 that was warrentied two years ago that has less than 3K miles on it and am gonna swap it out tomorrow. Just wondering if a bad FICM will give the truck a bad/rough idle when cold.
UpstateDieselGuy
New member
Absolutely!
Chris
Chris
strokin6L
Active member
yeah it's wierd how all of a sudden i developed a really bad cold start up what shakes the truck like mad. I'm gonna hafta swap out my stock 48v ID tuned FICM with this fairly new stock one and see what happens. If it's the FICM....i'm gonna send the newer FICM to swamps and have them turn it into a 58v one and just have them do the PHP hybrid tune i think.
strokin6L
Active member
yesterday i swapped out my ID tuned 48v FICM with a completely stock one off of my spare engine. This morning it was 22* out...cycled the glow plugs and it fired up without being rough and shakey. So looks like the FICM was causing my sudden rough starts even though it still measured 48v.
windrunner408
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