Ground up rebuild for tired excursion

[Big Red Bus]

hey there, long time stalker of the site first time poster. So ill just get into it feb. 2019 I picked up a pretty clean 02 Excursion to replace a 09 burb that wasn't cutting it for pulling my TT, had some issues but nothing I couldn't fix in the driveway before camping season. fixed the little issues and installed f250 leafs and hellwig sway bar in the rear. I was worried after the first trip to the black hills that I was having high egt's so I installed dual pyros and a boost guage. well next camping trip I found out that the egts would hover around 850ish-1000ish on flat land and in hills I could smack 1500 in seconds, would start to climb and then take off when it down shifted, passenger side runs about 150-200 degrees hotter all the time. I checked boost leaks and fixed a lot before I even started towing with it. rebuilt turbo and installed WW with rebuild makes 22-23 psi boost on ts live wire guage little, a lil less on analog. so I got tired of feathering the thing to keep it out of 1500 egts when ever I got on it, and its tired at 270K so I found a good core early 01 with forged rods and decided im gonna spend some coin and build up a new motor and buy a new trans to go with it and swap them one weekend this coming summer. so I guess after that long break down I have been trying to build a parts list for it. I'm gonna stud everything but maybe the rods.
Other parts i'm thinking of getting is:
--205/30 or 80 sticks
--new hpop, probably adrenaline
--s366sxe with .91 housing to still be pretty responsive but I cant find info on if its laggy other then a couple posts but no one can agree on it, I have heard both ways
--full exhaust with muffler as I have 4 kids in it most of the time
--new cam as original number 8 exhaust roller took it out- open to options on this also found stage 2 that wasn't a bad price.
--910 valve springs unless anyone thinks they are gonna be an issue with boost- as I don't know what kinda boost this will make real world
--S&B CAI
--stage 2 sam wyse trans as I don't wanna rebuild a trans within a year of the swap
--6.0 cooler to go with it
--php hydra
--regulated return fuel kit
--build my own HPX as from what I have read it doesn't work with the t4 style
Im sure there is more but I can't think of it right now, any suggestions I am open to. Oh and this will mostly going to be a towing vehicle but I still wanna give my brother in law a run for his money in his cummins. sorry for the long post but any info/help would be great thanks

 

[psduser1]

Nice list!
My opinion....
6637 style intake, I've got a couple s&b intakes, and a 6637 set up. The 6637 is a better setup.
Skip the cam, you will make plenty of power with a stock cam for towing.
If by 205 cc injectors you are referring to large a-codes, I think you would be better off will a small hybrid, like a 238 cc body, 30 or 80& nozzle. Both of my towrigs have 80% nozzles, and I personally wouldn't go smaller.
Live tuning if at all possible, and especially if you go 80% nozzles or bigger.
Delipped pistons.
Balanced rotating assembly.
Regulated return style fuel system with spin on filters for serviceablity.
That will put you 450 hp, or so, with relatively little maintenance issues.
Good luck, and keep us updated!.

 

[Big Red Bus]

The full force ones I'm looking at say the 205s are hybrids but the price is the same I believe for 238s

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[Big Red Bus]

Did a quick search for a shop manual are they non existent now days? Checked helm .com for them but they only have owners manuals.

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[co04cobra]

Did a quick search for a shop manual are they non existent now days? Checked helm .com for them but they only have owners manuals.

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What are you wanting to know?

 

[Big Red Bus]

What are you wanting to know?

Engine specs so I can rebuild it. Not seeing a whole lot but I'm also convinced the tapatalk search bar is not very good as I can type in 7.3 powerstroke and hardly anything pops up

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[Big Red Bus]

Got this 01 for $500, supposedly was pulled for broken push rod after injectors were installed had 180k on it when I broke it down for a bad lifter and it chewed up the cam so I will have to get a new one or aftermarket one

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[Big Red Bus]

Also all the intake valves were pushed into the seats pretty bad first 2 were the worst ones you guys ever seen this? Never seen this I would think it's from hydrolocking the engine but I know on 3512 cat engines they blow the injectors through the valve cover if they hydrolock

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[gwunter]

Never seen anything like that with the valves working their way into the head like that. Seems like maybe there is something else that contributed to that.

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[Big Red Bus]

Never seen anything like that with the valves working their way into the head like that. Seems like maybe there is something else that contributed to that.

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The guy I bought it from said it came with the truck the previous owner had injectors done at for and went to get it the next day and said it ran really bad so for fixed it said they changed the motor because they found a broken push rod and lifter. Dont know if I buy that but I did find a broken broken push rod ball in the pan and number 8 was missing a lifter and pushrod and rocker.

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[psduser1]

Also all the intake valves were pushed into the seats pretty bad first 2 were the worst ones you guys ever seen this? Never seen this I would think it's from hydrolocking the engine but I know on 3512 cat engines they blow the injectors through the valve cover if they hydrolock

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Its been run too hot for too long. If you were to continue too run it, with too high of egts, the seat would separate from the stem, and then you'd have a seven cylinder 7.3l, lol.

 

[Big Red Bus]

Its been run too hot for too long. If you were to continue too run it, with too high of egts, the seat would separate from the stem, and then you'd have a seven cylinder 7.3l, lol.

See I was curious if it was run hard but I didnt see alot of heat in the pistons on the back side or on the sides of them

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[gwunter]

Is there any erosion on the tops of the pistons?

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[Big Red Bus]

Is there any erosion on the tops of the pistons?

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Nope pretty clean no issues, no pitting no melted or distorted areas from heat that I can find rods are straight enough by eyeballing them that I cant see issues, all the bearings but 1 look new. All that I found was the lifter on the exhaust and the intake valve train that was missing when I got it, that was the first piston I pulled since both lifters had issues on that cylinder. Figured I would see something but there was nothing

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[Big Red Bus]

Is there any erosion on the tops of the pistons?

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Here is some pics of the ones I can get too

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[dsberman94]

Irate diesel for your t4 kit and turbo and also for the regulated return. I’d do draw straw set up with an upgraded pump and filters on that.

Cnc fabrication has a kit for hpop lines and crossover. That all fits and looks nice and clean in the valley with the regulated return in there. The crossover line isn’t a hard line like others have so it works with the t4 kit. Install the hardliners for the reg return out of the truck. I wish I had.

You’ll need a boost fooler as well I’m sure.

More power doesn’t mean it’s going to run cooler. You will still have to drop it down a gear and keep the rpms up on the grades to keep it cool. They aren’t like the new trucks.

 

[Big Red Bus]

Irate diesel for your t4 kit and turbo and also for the regulated return. I’d do draw straw set up with an upgraded pump and filters on that.

Cnc fabrication has a kit for hpop lines and crossover. That all fits and looks nice and clean in the valley with the regulated return in there. The crossover line isn’t a hard line like others have so it works with the t4 kit. Install the hardliners for the reg return out of the truck. I wish I had.

You’ll need a boost fooler as well I’m sure.

More power doesn’t mean it’s going to run cooler. You will still have to drop it down a gear and keep the rpms up on the grades to keep it cool. They aren’t like the new trucks.

Was building a parts list this week and seen this, is this an actual boost fooler? It says it's a fuel regulator, just curious will probably put inline regulator in anyways. Also from what I can see on t4 kit I should be able to bend a hardline and install MORB X MJIC fittings in the heads and flare the ends on the hydraulic flaring tool at my old job.

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[Big Red Bus]

Has anybody used these? says direct replacement and no need for return so I could install a filter and go away with stock fuel bowl? Any thoghts? I'm sure that the return line ties to the pump and just holds on a regulated curve

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[dsberman94]

I don’t know what that is but I stay far away from anything branded air dog or fass.

The cnc fab line is priced right that it wouldn’t even be worth the time to mess with one on your own.

Riffraff for a boost fooler and it won’t read correct through the trucks computer anymore so you’ll need to find another way. I T’d off the front of the ic pipe plenum temporarily but got a bung welded into the ic pipe.

 

[Big Red Bus]

I don’t know what that is but I stay far away from anything branded air dog or fass.

The cnc fab line is priced right that it wouldn’t even be worth the time to mess with one on your own.

Riffraff for a boost fooler and it won’t read correct through the trucks computer anymore so you’ll need to find another way. I T’d off the front of the ic pipe plenum temporarily but got a bung welded into the ic pipe.

So what brand would you go with?

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