hard or no start with a p1670

[Chvyrkr]

Did you ever try a new/different IDM?

 

[lincolnlocker]

Been a sloo of cps issues over the last year... my dually is on number 4 right now and the last time I drove it(Christmas) it started cutting out like that.

live life full throttle

 

[TyCorr]

Mine was doing that too...

 

[littleredstroker]

It's rough till it warms up then smooth and power is good. If you start it the next day is fine might run rough for 2 min. One time it ran rough and like a light switch it smoothed out

This and everything else is EXACTLY what mine did when I had injectors out. try plugging it in. mine wouldn't start at less than 80* without being plugged in. sometimes it would take 10 min of cranking over a 30 minute period before she would pop. when she would start it was real rough and had a miss. At first as soon as I gave it some throttle it would " flip the light switch" and solve the problem. I was a broke azz at the time so I couldn't get injectors for about 4 months. by the end of 4 months I would drive it for an hour before it would clear up.

 

[golfer]

Been a sloo of cps issues over the last year... my dually is on number 4 right now and the last time I drove it(Christmas) it started cutting out like that.

live life full throttle

If a truck is eating CPS's/cam sensors...and you are using Ford Motorcraft or IH t444e sensors...then you may have a cam gear that is walking off the cam snout.

if this is the rebuilt engine, I would check to see if the cam gear was welded to the cam after the endplay was set.

You may also want to use a dab of gear marking compound (or similar paint) on the end of 'a' CPS...run it for awhile, and see if your gear is 'wiping' the paint of the end of the CPS.

When the cam gear physically touches the sensor, it disrupts the magnetic pickup/hall affect sensor, rendering the CPS unreliable/dead.

we've cut apart a half dozen or so CPS's from various manufacturers, and there is a huge disparity on the location of the hall affect sensor, as well as the circuitry/filtering circuits.

Due to the different physical location of the hall affect sensor/pickup in some aftermarket (and even OEM non t444e/7.3L cam sensors), injection timing can be significantly 'different' from one brand sensor to another.

Though the Ford/IH t444e sensors have changed a bit over the years, internally...they are still our preferred sensor due to them being consistent & predictable wrt injection timing.

 

[lincolnlocker]

If a truck is eating CPS's/cam sensors...and you are using Ford Motorcraft or IH t444e sensors...then you may have a cam gear that is walking off the cam snout.

if this is the rebuilt engine, I would check to see if the cam gear was welded to the cam after the endplay was set.

You may also want to use a dab of gear marking compound (or similar paint) on the end of 'a' CPS...run it for awhile, and see if your gear is 'wiping' the paint of the end of the CPS.

When the cam gear physically touches the sensor, it disrupts the magnetic pickup/hall affect sensor, rendering the CPS unreliable/dead.

we've cut apart a half dozen or so CPS's from various manufacturers, and there is a huge disparity on the location of the hall affect sensor, as well as the circuitry/filtering circuits.

Due to the different physical location of the hall affect sensor/pickup in some aftermarket (and even OEM non t444e/7.3L cam sensors), injection timing can be significantly 'different' from one brand sensor to another.

Though the Ford/IH t444e sensors have changed a bit over the years, internally...they are still our preferred sensor due to them being consistent & predictable wrt injection timing.

Yes it is supposed to be tig welded on... thank you tons for the info sir.. ill still do the paint trick.

live life full throttle

 

[TyCorr]

Is it also possible for the tone ring to be loose?

 

[lincolnlocker]

If a truck is eating CPS's/cam sensors...and you are using Ford Motorcraft or IH t444e sensors...then you may have a cam gear that is walking off the cam snout.

if this is the rebuilt engine, I would check to see if the cam gear was welded to the cam after the endplay was set.

You may also want to use a dab of gear marking compound (or similar paint) on the end of 'a' CPS...run it for awhile, and see if your gear is 'wiping' the paint of the end of the CPS.

When the cam gear physically touches the sensor, it disrupts the magnetic pickup/hall affect sensor, rendering the CPS unreliable/dead.

we've cut apart a half dozen or so CPS's from various manufacturers, and there is a huge disparity on the location of the hall affect sensor, as well as the circuitry/filtering circuits.

Due to the different physical location of the hall affect sensor/pickup in some aftermarket (and even OEM non t444e/7.3L cam sensors), injection timing can be significantly 'different' from one brand sensor to another.

Though the Ford/IH t444e sensors have changed a bit over the years, internally...they are still our preferred sensor due to them being consistent & predictable wrt injection timing.

Oh, and yes its the rebuilt motor. And yes, I use only motorcraft products on my motors.. can it render it useles with the slightest knick even? I am going to be pulling the motor and replacing the lifters. My dumbass skimped and didn't replace them. I think I hwve one or more that intermittently doesn't lift...

live life full throttle

 

[golfer]

Oh, and yes its the rebuilt motor. And yes, I use only motorcraft products on my motors.. can it render it useles with the slightest knick even?

yes, if the cam gear trigger wheel touches the sensor, it will disrupt the functionality of it.

I am going to be pulling the motor and replacing the lifters. My dumbass skimped and didn't replace them. I think I hwve one or more that intermittently doesn't lift...

that's unfortunate (and exceedingly rare on a 7.3L..can't recall a single instance I've personally heard of a lifter collapsing)

I assume you've monitored LPOil pressure?

you should be able to verify a lifter issue, with an adj length push rod and a dial indicator on the valve...hate to see guys pull chit apart w/o definitely isolating the issue...

 

[lincolnlocker]

yes, if the cam gear trigger wheel touches the sensor, it will disrupt the functionality of it.



that's unfortunate (and exceedingly rare on a 7.3L..can't recall a single instance I've personally heard of a lifter collapsing)

I assume you've monitored LPOil pressure?

you should be able to verify a lifter issue, with an adj length push rod and a dial indicator on the valve...hate to see guys pull chit apart w/o definitely isolating the issue...

I havn't put an actaul lpo gauge in, but hpop reservoir is never empty and my icp values are dead on what they always have been before and after the rebuild.. the rebuild kit was from clay at riffraff anx included a new lpop.. All the issues started around 6k miles on the rebuild.. I have a boost gauge plumbed into the ebps tube via a T fitting and when boost is between 15-20 psi it will thump through the exhaust bad enough to make the 1/4in teflon tube I'm using for plumming the boost gauge hit stuff or hop.. and its intermittent, as in, doesnt do it all the time and I woukd assume a bent valve would thump non stop?.. I started to have cps issues a month or so later.. I had a original black cps in for 100k or so miles that i put in shortly after i bought it and that was the first to die.. put in my second original black cps that I bought the same time as the first, lasted 3 hrs.. put in the recal gray cps that was in the truck when I bought it, while I ordered 4 cps's from clay(which are motorcraft) and it lasted a couple weeks... then I put one of the new black cps's in and it lasted a month or so while my brother was driving it to and from work(he drives slower than my gramps) so I know it isnt from beating on it.. . It now has another new one in it and the last time I drove it at Christmas it started acting up again so I parked it and put a battery tender on it.. I have had the valve covers off twice looking for bent pushrods or broken rockers and valve springs.. no luck.. so without having the awesome tools to check internals, I was just going to pull the motor and double check everything and replace lifters while doing it.. its not like the head gaskets are seasoned with only 6k on the rebuild.... sorry so long and thank you tons for the input!!
can you maybe explain how the process works with the edj length pushrod and why it needs to be adjustable? I haven't really gotten into hydraulic lifters much and would like to know the exacts and how to's of how they work.. I got the gist of it but not the exacts...



Op, sorry to hijack your thread...

live life full throttle

 

[TyCorr]

You wouldnt have to be beating on it. When you let out of the throttle the cam would move forward if that was the issue.

 

[Dzchey21]

The cutting out on this truck happens mostly before it's fully warmed up. It's got a napa cam sensor I'll thro a Ford one at it and see if that issue goes away. I'm fairly confident that the hard starting issue is an injector issue on the passenger side. I've got a full set of used low mile ones here I'll throw at that side and see if that helps.

This morning it was 22 degrees and started fine. This hhappens try after it sits but not super consistsnt. It can sit for 2 weeks and start right up sometimes.

 

[boggerr]

Had the same problem with one at work, same symptoms except for the cutting out. Changed all the injectors and the starting problem was cured. The cutting out is most likely CPS, when I get to work I'll post up the International part number. It's the newest version.

On edit: try the cam sensor first, I know of one truck that the sensor was retarding the timing as it warmed up.

 

[Dzchey21]

I put some used ones in last night and it made things worse m that's what I get for trying used ones.

Please if you can ill take that part number

 

[boggerr]

That's the kinda luck I have. If you pull the injectors again make sure the cups aren't leaking.
Here's the number for that CPS. 1876736C91

 

[Dzchey21]

still working on this pile, I have not checked the HPOP reservior yet, It made it through last winter but now that its cold again we are back in the same boat. Ill check the res and see what happens there.

 

[ghohouston]

My truck was randomly dying, violently bucking/skipping/cutting out, would only ever throw a po344 cps code. Did it with a ford grey sensor, and ford dark purple. Threw in an original black cps, and all is wel now.

 

[lincolnlocker]

still working on this pile, I have not checked the HPOP reservior yet, It made it through last winter but now that its cold again we are back in the same boat. Ill check the res and see what happens there.

id replace the dam injectors

live life full throttle

 

[Dzchey21]

The guy is having a hard time understanding why since it runs so good once it's warm. I put a set of supposed good set of injectors with virtually no change.

 

[co04cobra]

Dz- Are those the ones you got from me? If so, I am 99% sure those were working good when I had put them on the shelf. It seems odd for 2 sets of injectors to act exactly the same way.

I have another set here that I am 150% sure are perfect working order that ill send out to you if want to try them.

Did you ever pull the ipr and clean it or get to change the cps?