how much power can a stock forged rod motor hold?

dsberman94 · Dec 9, 2013

ive heard 600hp is pretty much the max for a stock forged rod motor. anyone have one let go at a lot less?

also what will i need to get to between 550hp and 600hp using my current 38r? ive been told the 38r will make that with some good tuning. i want to get whatever injectors i will need in the spring season and put them in the PMR for now and get them tuned back so it lasts till i don't want it to. will i need to run an upgraded hpop on it if the injectors are tuned back or will i be able to get away with the stock hpop? my plan is to get a forged rod block and have everything i will need to get it between 550 and 600 for when i blow the PMR.

heres what ive thought of so far
upgraded hpop- honeybadger from NLTD?
what size injectors? 250/200's do it or will i need bigger?
ARP or H11 studs? will they be needed? opinions on this.
valve springs? what kind what size shims to do the job? needed?
pushrods? what kind? how hard are they to install? needed?
regulated return thinking strictly as i like the kit. fuel bowl delete needed?
am i missing anything?

depending on the mileage of the forged rod block what should i do with the bottom end if its got high mileage when i get it? do a simple bottom end rebuild on the bearings to freshen it up?

V-Ref · Dec 9, 2013

Instead of injs, I'd save and get Manley rods, Fire Ring head gaskets, girdle/bed plate and main studs. Imagine if your PMR motor blew tomorrow and what you'd wish you have for your rebuild.

At some point of your motor build send in your injs to have built...and this gives you time to watch for a good deal on injectors from somebody divesting their 7.3 build...

PSDEng · Dec 9, 2013

Instead of starting another one of these threads, read this.....please.

School me on 7.3 power handling

littleredstroker · Dec 9, 2013

ARP or H11 studs? will they be needed? opinions on this. I used ARP, I suggest doing it while you have the motor out. a lot easier than motor in when you lift a head
valve springs? what kind what size shims to do the job? needed?I used comp 910s shimmed to 1.750 , Must use a valve spring micrometer, I got mine from summit for 40$
pushrods? what kind? how hard are they to install? needed?I would leave them alone unless you start bending them all the time. stock ones are cheap and the way I look at it, youre gonna have a weak link. better it be something cheap and easy to replace
regulated return thinking strictly as i like the kit. fuel bowl delete needed? I used DI RR and loved it. everything fit perfect. You will need a fuel setup as your single stocker wont hold so you may as well fuel bowl delete while your at it
am i missing anything?

littleredstroker · Dec 9, 2013

dsberman94 said:
ive heard 600hp is pretty much the max for a stock forged rod motor. anyone have one let go at a lot less?

also what will i need to get to between 550hp and 600hp using my current 38r? ive been told the 38r will make that with some good tuning. i want to get whatever injectors i will need in the spring season and put them in the PMR for now and get them tuned back so it lasts till i don't want it to. will i need to run an upgraded hpop on it if the injectors are tuned back or will i be able to get away with the stock hpop? my plan is to get a forged rod block and have everything i will need to get it between 550 and 600 for when i blow the PMR.

QUOTE]

I say leave the injectors till last. I had a plan similar to yours, but never got in a big hurry, then I blew my pmr motor and was in a bind. I did end up finding a 200k mile motor, did HG ,studs,springs resealed the oil pan, resealed the oil cooler, and called it good. been doing just fine

dsberman94 · Dec 9, 2013

Motor would be built out of truck on a stand. Everything assembled and ready to drop in. Sorry about starting a new thread about this. I remember reading that about the pushrods.

Rideracelivemx7 · Dec 9, 2013

honestly I wouldn't buy a forged rod motor just to make 550 because they have popped at that level before. I would buy any cheap motor you can find and do rods. If you already had a forged rod motor then youd play with the gamble. I have my fingers crossed every time I click the hot tune.

dsberman94 · Dec 9, 2013

So the rods are the weak point. Pistons will be fine? How important is the girdle/ bed plate at that power level? Main studs I have no problem doing. These are the times when being friends with a ford diesel tech is awesome an having you guys for the building info is also awesome.

Jason · Dec 9, 2013

I'd find a cheap 7.3, regardless of rods. DI had forged rods for like $450 fo a set. Build the motor on a stand, and drop it in. I wouldn't wait for your pmr motor to pop. This way, if you pop a forged rod motor, you have a running motor you can swap back in in a day or so, and be back in business.

Rideracelivemx7 · Dec 9, 2013

pistons seem to hold up great, just have the bowl lip machined and you should be good to go. I will personally go with a girdle because a bedplate is $$$$$ aka ballers only LOL I may go with manley rods too, have heard nothing but good news with them. The max my truck will see with spray assumingly 800, 7ish fuel

littleredstroker · Dec 9, 2013

Jason said:
I'd find a cheap 7.3, regardless of rods. DI had forged rods for like $450 fo a set. Build the motor on a stand, and drop it in. I wouldn't wait for your pmr motor to pop. This way, if you pop a forged rod motor, you have a running motor you can swap back in in a day or so, and be back in business.

Not to mention you can turn around and sell your PMR motor as a runner. wont bring as much $ as a forged rod but someone is always looking.

don't be like me and wait till you have a 7.3l boat anchor with a hole punched through the side. then its all worthless..

on edit: I did sell my crank and cam for 250$

codeman200 · Dec 9, 2013

Mine went at 135K with 238s and a 38r

littleredstroker · Dec 9, 2013

mine lasted 13k @458...

Powerstroke Cowboy · Dec 9, 2013

V-Ref said:
Instead of injs, I'd save and get Manley rods, Fire Ring head gaskets, girdle/bed plate and main studs. Imagine if your PMR motor blew tomorrow and what you'd wish you have for your rebuild.

At some point of your motor build send in your injs to have built...and this gives you time to watch for a good deal on injectors from somebody divesting their 7.3 build...

I agree with this. Would save you a lot of pain and trouble in the end. Not to mention the peace of mind with a good bottom end under the hood.

smokinstroker92 · Dec 11, 2013

My pmr motor lasted 15k miles at 500hp+ before I swapped it was still running strong at 160k swapped it for forged rod motor with 140k it has been running for 12k miles at 650ish hp on fuel and has been sprayed 20+ times. Tuning is key!!!

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk

Powerstroke Cowboy · Dec 11, 2013

Yes tuning is key. No question about it. Just there comes a point when you loose the low end power just to keep your engine together. I am not willing to loose the low end power. So with that I will NEED a built engine even if I never make over 500 hp.