HPOP question

Arisley

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7. ICP sensor is not leaking.. what am I looking for when I pull the connector with the engine running? ICP values vary according to engine load watching the data stream..

When you unplug the ICP sensor, if nothing changes, the sensor is bad.

If it changes, it means your PCM has recognized that it is no longer recieving info from it and goes into a default mode.

I am leaning more towards Power-Strucks thoughts.
 

JLDickmon

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buzz video.. check.. do it tomorrow if I get the chance..
I couldn't tell the difference when I ran it Sunday, but someone with a better trained ear might...
 

20007.3stroker

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This is exactly how my truck started acting up, until I couldnt start it when its cold. Park it in a warm shop and it fires right up no problems. Leave it outside and if you can get it started it barely runs. Done my testing and injectors is the only thing that it can be. Figured my experience may help. By the way Im at 288000 with only one remand injector in it
 
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lincolnlocker

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any way to monitor icp AS it fires? how quickly does it climb to 600psi? im not sure but shouldn't the icp continue to climp as it cranks even abve 600psi? i know that when my trucks start they almost jump to 1500psi instantly then level back down to 500ish... the reason i ask is i just replaced the icp sensor in one of my trucks and the default idle was right around 600psi.. in that truck it idles just above 450psi healthy.. my other one is right at 500ish.... although in this truck the sensor was full of oil. but in my other truck it was clean and it was messed up... whats your fuel pressure also? when it is running whats the icp at wot? icp duty cycle while cranking, while idling, and at wot?

if there isn't any smoke comming out of the tail pipe, wouldn't that mean he flat out is not getting any fuel? or are you guys thinking that his injectors are that fubar and not even trying to pump fuel? i cant see that happening i guess... but is possible... also wouldn't think he would be having that bad of an issue with only 190k on the clock.. unless he flogged the chit out of his truck all day everyday.. but again anything is possible...
 
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Justin@DP-Tuner

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any way to monitor icp AS it fires? how quickly does it climb to 600psi? im not sure but shouldn't the icp continue to climp as it cranks even abve 600psi? i know that when my trucks start they almost jump to 1500psi instantly then level back down to 500ish... the reason i ask is i just replaced the icp sensor in one of my trucks and the default idle was right around 600psi.. in that truck it idles just above 450psi healthy.. my other one is right at 500ish.... although in this truck the sensor was full of oil. but in my other truck it was clean and it was messed up... whats your fuel pressure also? when it is running whats the icp at wot? icp duty cycle while cranking, while idling, and at wot?

if there isn't any smoke comming out of the tail pipe, wouldn't that mean he flat out is not getting any fuel? or are you guys thinking that his injectors are that fubar and not even trying to pump fuel? i cant see that happening i guess... but is possible... also wouldn't think he would be having that bad of an issue with only 190k on the clock.. unless he flogged the chit out of his truck all day everyday.. but again anything is possible...

Yes, ICP should climb well above 600psi while cranking. Mine usually hits 2000psi before it fires. However, the PCM only NEEDS to see 500psi to start.
 

golfer

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Yes, ICP should climb well above 600psi while cranking. Mine usually hits 2000psi before it fires. However, the PCM only NEEDS to see 500psi to start.

actually the PCM doesn't really need to see anything.

it's the injectors that need a minimum (mechanical) pressure to fire.
 

lincolnlocker

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this got me thinking so i just went out and started my truck with the scanner hooked up... i have a weak hpop in my red rclb truck and pressures climbed instantly and fired... must be i havnt monitored my trucks while cranking with a healthy icp sensor... i get the 1211 code whenever i go above 3/4 throttle... it will barley hold 2300psi at 90ish dc. its 27* here now and for some reason it popped right off and it doesnt usually do that.

when you get it running, can you tell us the dc and icp numbers as what i asked before?
live life full throttle
 
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JLDickmon

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This is beginning to sound like you proove everything else good, THEN condemn the injectors.

We used to do this on gas motors. The old Dura-Spark I's back in the late '70's... prove everything else good, and if it still doesn't work, replace the module.....

I'll doublecheck the data
 

golfer

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This is beginning to sound like you proove everything else good, THEN condemn the injectors.

We used to do this on gas motors. The old Dura-Spark I's back in the late '70's... prove everything else good, and if it still doesn't work, replace the module.....

I'll doublecheck the data

without a lot of direct experience...yes, you're absolutely correct.
 

Justin@DP-Tuner

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This is beginning to sound like you proove everything else good, THEN condemn the injectors.

We used to do this on gas motors. The old Dura-Spark I's back in the late '70's... prove everything else good, and if it still doesn't work, replace the module.....

I'll doublecheck the data

LOL

That is a good way of saying it.
 

PA Stroker

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Well you could pull the injectors and send them out to have them flowed if you really wanna be sure their the problem. If it where me i would just get a set mine was doing the same exact thing last year and my injectors where shot.
 

CSIPSD

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Just to throw this out there, as it got me by for a few more months...

Pick up a Swamps IDM...

I had the exact same issue, anything below 40* and it was a fight to start her. I knew it was the injectors, but the Swamps IDM gave the injectors a bit more juice and it would fire off at temps down to 25* or so without being plugged in. Did it fire right off and run great, no. But it started and would run until it warmed up good enough to take off.

$250 bucks is cheaper then $1600 to get you by for a while...

Edit...

I agree above however. Its 99% sure your injectors are just wore out.
 

BigRed97

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I didnt read all the posts so sorry if this was suggested already but with certain tuners/tunes mine idles under 600psi, and over 700 with others....maybe try swaping or removing the chip?
 

JLDickmon

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this got me thinking so i just went out and started my truck with the scanner hooked up... i have a weak hpop in my red rclb truck and pressures climbed instantly and fired... must be i havnt monitored my trucks while cranking with a healthy icp sensor... i get the 1211 code whenever i go above 3/4 throttle... it will barley hold 2300psi at 90ish dc. its 27* here now and for some reason it popped right off and it doesnt usually do that.

when you get it running, can you tell us the dc and icp numbers as what i asked before?
live life full throttle

I was kind of busy at the shop today with an Expedition no start and a Concorde throwing every freekin code imaginable.. when the A tech is on vacation, I'm the driveability guy.. but as soon as I get a chance, yeah. No problem.
Like I said, it'll run, as long as you keep it warmed.. I started it a couple time on & off during today just to make sure I could get home.. it wouldn't catch on the first try, but popped right off on the second when I went to leave.. 17 degrees and parked into the wind..
 

JLDickmon

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well, I thought I could...
turns out the format the scanner uses is not supported by Windows...

Justin.. truck fired @590 psi, then jumped to a little over 2,000 during "flare' and then settled in the 700 neighborhood at idle.
I could get it to 2,100 powerbraking it for a few seconds.
That help?

It's nearly due to change the oil again.. maybe I'll do like Lincolnlocker suggested, and use full synthetic oil and see if I get an increase in cranking rpm (I would think I will), and see if that changes anything for the better..

what blows about the whole thing is that I have other places to spend my money right now.. the rear half of the back driveshaft needs a new slip-yoke and splines.. lower ball joints are loose again.. plus I have a daughter getting married this fall, and there are expenses associated with that...

maybe I should cry myself a river? :mad:
 
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CSIPSD

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Just to throw this out there, as it got me by for a few more months...

Pick up a Swamps IDM...

I had the exact same issue, anything below 40* and it was a fight to start her. I knew it was the injectors, but the Swamps IDM gave the injectors a bit more juice and it would fire off at temps down to 25* or so without being plugged in. Did it fire right off and run great, no. But it started and would run until it warmed up good enough to take off.

$250 bucks is cheaper then $1600 to get you by for a while...

Edit...

I agree above however. Its 99% sure your injectors are just wore out.

well, I thought I could...
turns out the format the scanner uses is not supported by Windows...

Justin.. truck fired @590 psi, then jumped to a little over 2,000 during "flare' and then settled in the 700 neighborhood at idle.
I could get it to 2,100 powerbraking it for a few seconds.
That help?

It's nearly due to change the oil again.. maybe I'll do like Lincolnlocker suggested, and use full synthetic oil and see if I get an increase in cranking rpm (I would think I will), and see if that changes anything for the better..

what blows about the whole thing is that I have other places to spend my money right now.. the rear half of the back driveshaft needs a new slip-yoke and splines.. lower ball joints are loose again.. plus I have a daughter getting married this fall, and there are expenses associated with that...

maybe I should cry myself a river? :mad:

Maybe you missed this? Or maybe you dont care... But it got me by for several months...
 

POWER-STRUCK

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joe is correct! if the injectors are worn you could get a hot IDM to help the problem.

think of it this way- you have a electromagnet and you want to lift and object and it does it just fine at 110 volts, now place the object farther away an it can no longer lift it, then increase the voltage of the magnet to 140 volts then it will be able to magnatize the object at a larger gap!
 

Justin@DP-Tuner

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well, I thought I could...
turns out the format the scanner uses is not supported by Windows...

Justin.. truck fired @590 psi, then jumped to a little over 2,000 during "flare' and then settled in the 700 neighborhood at idle.
I could get it to 2,100 powerbraking it for a few seconds.
That help?

It's nearly due to change the oil again.. maybe I'll do like Lincolnlocker suggested, and use full synthetic oil and see if I get an increase in cranking rpm (I would think I will), and see if that changes anything for the better..

what blows about the whole thing is that I have other places to spend my money right now.. the rear half of the back driveshaft needs a new slip-yoke and splines.. lower ball joints are loose again.. plus I have a daughter getting married this fall, and there are expenses associated with that...

maybe I should cry myself a river? :mad:

That sounds about normal for ICP. I still think your issue is going to lie in the injectors...
 

lincolnlocker

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what joe and power-struck are saying makes since... the fires at 600ish and flares to 2000ish seems right to me... thats pretty much a better explanation then what mine was doing..
 

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