Hydroboost Conversion Done

[Lifted_Tea]

Alright I got my system all set up finally, ordered the wrong hose from the booster to steering box but improvised and just cut the end off the tube that goes to the steering box and put my own flare on...hopefully it works. What fluid are you guys using for the powersteering pumps? Truck never came with a manual but based on my internet reading on the 1999-up guys who have hydroboost factory they run ATF such as Mobil1 Synthetic ATF or Mercon ATF. Is that what yall are running in your power steering? Thanks!

 

[rusty1161]

Synthetic ATF, I run Schaeffers brand.

Rusty

 

[Lifted_Tea]

Thanks rusty1161!! On another note that hasn't been discussed yet here is the "Low Vacuum Sensor" that looks like a chewing tobacco tin on the inner fender well. Mine pretty much crumbled apart when the truck got disassembled...since we've converted to Hydroboost and no longer rely on the vacuum pump for brakes I don't feel a need for it anymore as only the climate controls work on vacuum now (that and the dealer wants $100 for it). Has anyone ******d it from their hydroboost system so the light on the dash won't come on once eliminated? I know the simple solution is to just take the dash out and pull the bulb on it but feel like there could be an easier way about making the light go away. Any thoughts?

 

[rusty1161]

https://youtu.be/8Nb_4XHHmSw

I just came across this video. Has anyone had experience with changing the high pressure hose and improving performance

Thanks.

Rusty

 

[gnxtc2]

I'm gonna re-open this thread.....

As you know, I've done the hydroboost conversion. I'm just not too happy with the brake pedal feel. The pedal feels harder than I would like it to be. Don't get me wrong, the truck does stop without issue.

I drove a 1994 C/C F-SD truck with the same hydroboost set up. The 1994 had discs all the way around. But the 1994 had that load sensing valve in the rear that regulated the pressure going to the rear. That rear set up is discontinued. The pedal feel in the 1994 was way better.

I relocated the brake pin on the pedal which helped but not that much. I also installed the correct proportioning valve on the master. It helped.

The feeling I get is a harder pedal but more of numb type braking.

Feels like when I installed a large bore (1-1/8") manual master in the race car. At the time of install, I had four wheel disc but was going to do dual rear calipers in the future. When I eventually installed the additional calipers in the rear, the pedal felt way better.

The OEM master for the 1997 trucks is 1-1/4 bore vs 1 5/16 bore for the F-SD truck. I'm beginning to think that the bigger bore master is too much for a disc/drum set set up.

So what I've been thinking of doing to my truck....
- Put the original master back and slot/enlarging the mounting holes (cheaper)

or

- Swapping in the hydroboost that accepts the stock master so I don't have to slot the mounting holes and install the stock master (more money but looks legit).

I've also thought about installing an adjustable proportioning for the rear brakes?

Also, I've heard about porting a hydroboost unit. Anyone know whats involved in that mod?

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Zeb]

I'm gonna re-open this thread.....

As you know, I've done the hydroboost conversion. I'm just not too happy with the brake pedal feel. The pedal feels harder than I would like it to be. Don't get me wrong, the truck does stop without issue.

I drove a 1994 C/C F-SD truck with the same hydroboost set up. The 1994 had discs all the way around. But the 1994 had that load sensing valve in the rear that regulated the pressure going to the rear. That rear set up is discontinued. The pedal feel in the 1994 was way better.

I relocated the brake pin on the pedal which helped but not that much. I also installed the correct proportioning valve on the master. It helped.

The feeling I get is a harder pedal but more of numb type braking.

Feels like when I installed a large bore (1-1/8") manual master in the race car. At the time of install, I had four wheel disc but was going to do dual rear calipers in the future. When I eventually installed the additional calipers in the rear, the pedal felt way better.

The OEM master for the 1997 trucks is 1-1/4 bore vs 1 5/16 bore for the F-SD truck. I'm beginning to think that the bigger bore master is too much for a disc/drum set set up.

So what I've been thinking of doing to my truck....
- Put the original master back and slot/enlarging the mounting holes (cheaper)

or

- Swapping in the hydroboost that accepts the stock master so I don't have to slot the mounting holes and install the stock master (more money but looks legit).

I've also thought about installing an adjustable proportioning for the rear brakes?

Also, I've heard about porting a hydroboost unit. Anyone know whats involved in that mod?

Billy T.
[email protected]

I’ve been considering doing the hydro boost conversion on my OBS and I want to do Super Duty axles at the same time which would give me disc brakes all the way around. Do you think with discs all the way around I’d fight the same pedal feel issue that you currently are?

 

[Peroni]

Billy from what I've read about others doing this mod is that if you keep your rear drums then you keep the stock smaller master.



I spoke with Edward at VANCO about porting a hydroboost unit. He said it was unnecessary even with an upgraded p/s pump unless you were adding hydro assist. The cost was $425 plus shipping both ways and the hydroboost unit must not have been rebuilt before. Needless to say I trusted his experience and saved my dollars.

 

[gnxtc2]

Thanks...wouldn't think going from a 1.250 to 1.3125 bore would make much of a difference.

The Motorcraft OBS master has been discontinued.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[79jasper]

Discontinued from ford? Or?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[gnxtc2]

Yes, no longer can one get Motorcraft part# BRMC67.

Aftermarket ones are still available.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[79jasper]

Ah, I see.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Diesel_Brad]

Billy,

Following........

 

[rusty1161]

I'm gonna re-open this thread.....

As you know, I've done the hydroboost conversion. I'm just not too happy with the brake pedal feel. The pedal feels harder than I would like it to be. Don't get me wrong, the truck does stop without issue.

I drove a 1994 C/C F-SD truck with the same hydroboost set up. The 1994 had discs all the way around. But the 1994 had that load sensing valve in the rear that regulated the pressure going to the rear. That rear set up is discontinued. The pedal feel in the 1994 was way better.

I relocated the brake pin on the pedal which helped but not that much. I also installed the correct proportioning valve on the master. It helped.

The feeling I get is a harder pedal but more of numb type braking.

Feels like when I installed a large bore (1-1/8") manual master in the race car. At the time of install, I had four wheel disc but was going to do dual rear calipers in the future. When I eventually installed the additional calipers in the rear, the pedal felt way better.

The OEM master for the 1997 trucks is 1-1/4 bore vs 1 5/16 bore for the F-SD truck. I'm beginning to think that the bigger bore master is too much for a disc/drum set set up.

So what I've been thinking of doing to my truck....
- Put the original master back and slot/enlarging the mounting holes (cheaper)

or

- Swapping in the hydroboost that accepts the stock master so I don't have to slot the mounting holes and install the stock master (more money but looks legit).

I've also thought about installing an adjustable proportioning for the rear brakes?

Also, I've heard about porting a hydroboost unit. Anyone know whats involved in that mod?

Billy T.
[email protected]

Billy,

Is it possible the pushrod is too long? I’ve read a few posts in other threads where this conversion has been done and the pushrod was too long. Some were just shimmed with washers to fix the problem, others shortened the pushrod itself. Just a thought to consider before you change master cylinders.

Rusty

 

[rusty1161]

So, in the process of chasing down my issue with dragging front disc brakes, I started with replacing the calipers, since the pistons were hanging up and not releasing.

Further searches and research came across the issue others have had with the hydroboost MC pushrod length. Too long and the piston doesn’t retract fully and the compensating ports stay covered making it so the brakes can’t fully release. Well, I finally checked mine and what I found is in the pics. This is with the two nuts that secure the MC completely loose, and as far as the MC will sit back against the pushrod without compressing the piston inside the MC. The common spec is for no load on the piston and about .020” clearance. The gap shown is .040” so I have temporarily shimmed mine with a 1/8” body shim that measures out to be .061”, so I’m right at .020” pushrod clearance. Time and miles will tell if this was part of the issue, but after the first couple of tanks I am up an average 3 MPG.

This hydroboost is a Motorcraft unit and came with the pushrod. My MC is aftermarket, so that might be where the clearance issue was created.

I’ll update if this is the fix long term.

Rusty

 

[96SuperDuperDuty]

Has anyone figured out a mod to lower the pedal height with the F450 pedal?

I just did the hydroboost conversion - F450 Hydrobooster, Stock F250 Master cylinder(widened mounting holes), F450 Brake pedal. After all these years the I finally have brakes that I feel comfortable with. There is definitely more pressure required but they work every time and I can lock the wheels up, no problem. I'm very happy with the conversion but the high pedal height is a little annoying. I was thinking about putting a 1/2 aluminum spacer plate between the booster and the firewall or between the pedal bracket and the firewall. It look like the booster studs are long enough to accommodate this so it might be worth a shot. Has anyone else done a mod to lower the pedal height?

 

[gnxtc2]

Then you have to play with the brake light switch.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[78-79fordman]

any thoughts on just buying this kit ?
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Ford_80-96_F_Series.html

 

[Mysocks4]

any thoughts on just buying this kit ?
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/Ford_80-96_F_Series.html

Did you end up going with this kit? Looks legit..

 

[Devilman]

Did you end up going with this kit? Looks legit..

My question also? I've been looking at it and have spoke with Hydratech and they're telling me it'll work with our trucks. Just wanna talk to someone who's actually installed the kit

 

[78-79fordman]

No I have not yet . As soon as I have booster it master cylinder problems. I will try it out . But I would like to hear from someone that's used it on obs 7.3 .