Hydroboost Conversion Done

old man dave · May 26, 2016

Some of the brake boosters come with the push rod, some don't. The rod is not available separately. The Motorcraft BRB-37 does come with the required pushrod. I've bought two of them and both had the rod.

freddie · Jun 1, 2016

Does everyone who did this conversion, use the Magnefine filter?

I installed a magnefine 3/8 inline filter, and it leaked where its screwed together. Napa is replacing at no cost.

Lifted_Tea · Jun 20, 2016

Started my hydroboost conversion today and had the same thing come up regarding the brake pedal pin location. My pin was 3 1/2" out from center to center. I have a 1995 F350 Crew Cab Long Bed with the 7.3 but it somehow already had the superduty/hydroboost pedal even though it had the vacuum system. Guess I got off lucky, one less thing to have to do :thumbsup: Just though I'd share that bit with yall!

gnxtc2 · Jun 20, 2016

No, you the vacuum brake pedal. The hydro boost pedal is 2 5/8" center to center. Sometimes the hydro boost rod is rotated 180° out. See my post #104.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Lifted_Tea · Jun 21, 2016

gnxtc2 said:
No, you the vacuum brake pedal. The hydro boost pedal is 2 5/8" center to center. Sometimes the hydro boost rod is rotated 180° out. See my post #104.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Just when I thought I caught a break with this truck lol brains fried from a long day of work in the sun not surprised I read your information on the pedals wrong the first time in the garage tonight. Well so much for an easier conversion...I'll put that on the long list of things to do for the truck as well...

rusty1161 · Jun 21, 2016

Lifted_Tea said:
Just when I thought I caught a break with this truck lol brains fried from a long day of work in the sun not surprised I read your information on the pedals wrong the first time in the garage tonight. Well so much for an easier conversion...I'll put that on the long list of things to do for the truck as well...

I have a vacuum pedal you can have for the cost of shipping if you want to work on the mod without your truck down.

Rusty

Lifted_Tea · Jun 23, 2016

Appreciate the offer rusty but this is actually my project truck so it's no big deal if it sits for awhile, been parked for almost 6 months now and still counting. Ok guys I have a few questions now that all my parts for the conversion came in. Since I plan on keeping my drum rears I wanted to keep my original master cylinder to keep the proportioning correct so I wanted to order the brake booster Got4wd was talking about (Part # 6u9z-2005-a) because that's supposed to be the booster for those of us who don't have the rear disc conversion and wanting to re-use our original master cylinder. Well went to Rockauto and typed in that part number and it only came up as a rebuilding service where I'd have to send my old one in to be rebuilt. Since I obviously didn't have an old one to send it I decided to look at the buyers guide they list to see what vehicle that part number was supposed to go with. It said that it fit 2003-2014 F53. So knowing that I went to a 2003 F53 on Rockauto and checked out their hydro brake boosters and it came up with Part # 527367 which looked to be correct and appeared to be the one Got4wd had in his pictures and so I figured they may have changed the numbers or something so I ordered that booster. Just got it in today and test fit it. Well the hoses and fittings all fit this brake booster but had some issues with it. The booster itself wasn't a direct bolt up to the fire wall. It's very close but will need to ream out the holes in fire wall to make it fit which was my first red flag as I read all of you guys didn't have to do that with your brake boosters. Second red flag was when my original master cylinder didn't bolt right up which was the main reasoning behind purchasing this individual booster. I'd have to notch it out to keep my original master cylinder which as i said before is what I was trying to avoid by buying this individual brake booster. Third red flag was that the brake booster did not come with the rod. All that being said the booster I bought was clearly not the equivalent to part # 6u9z-2005-a and with nothing coming up for part # 6u9z-2005-a anywhere else on the internet at a reasonable price it's safe to say that the big online auto warehouses no longer carry that part # and I'm SOL at getting it cheap. Now with that being said If I do buy the BRB-37 booster but wanted to keep my original master cylinder can I? I'm assuming with Got4wd's comment on having to notch the original masters when bolting up with the F-Superduty booster that I can but just want to double check before I go through the exchange process and order the wrong booster....again. I don't mind ordering the 6u9z-2005-a booster from ford as I get a little discount from the shop I work at but If I could save a couple $$$ and order the BRB-37 online and only have to live with a notch in my master cylinder then that notch is something I can live with.

gnxtc2 · Jun 23, 2016

Lifted_Tea said:
Appreciate the offer rusty but this is actually my project truck so it's no big deal if it sits for awhile, been parked for almost 6 months now and still counting.

Ok guys I have a few questions now that all my parts for the conversion came in. Since I plan on keeping my drum rears I wanted to keep my original master cylinder to keep the proportioning correct so I wanted to order the brake booster Got4wd was talking about (Part # 6u9z-2005-a) because that's supposed to be the booster for those of us who don't have the rear disc conversion and wanting to re-use our original master cylinder.

Well went to Rockauto and typed in that part number and it only came up as a rebuilding service where I'd have to send my old one in to be rebuilt. Since I obviously didn't have an old one to send it I decided to look at the buyers guide they list to see what vehicle that part number was supposed to go with. It said that it fit 2003-2014 F53. So knowing that I went to a 2003 F53 on Rockauto and checked out their hydro brake boosters and it came up with Part # 527367 which looked to be correct and appeared to be the one Got4wd had in his pictures and so I figured they may have changed the numbers or something so I ordered that booster.

Just got it in today and test fit it. Well the hoses and fittings all fit this brake booster but had some issues with it. The booster itself wasn't a direct bolt up to the fire wall. It's very close but will need to ream out the holes in fire wall to make it fit which was my first red flag as I read all of you guys didn't have to do that with your brake boosters. Second red flag was when my original master cylinder didn't bolt right up which was the main reasoning behind purchasing this individual booster. I'd have to notch it out to keep my original master cylinder which as i said before is what I was trying to avoid by buying this individual brake booster. Third red flag was that the brake booster did not come with the rod. All that being said the booster I bought was clearly not the equivalent to part # 6u9z-2005-a and with nothing coming up for part # 6u9z-2005-a anywhere else on the internet at a reasonable price it's safe to say that the big online auto warehouses no longer carry that part # and I'm SOL at getting it cheap.

Now with that being said If I do buy the BRB-37 booster but wanted to keep my original master cylinder can I?

I'm assuming with Got4wd's comment on having to notch the original masters when bolting up with the F-Superduty booster that I can but just want to double check before I go through the exchange process and order the wrong booster....again. I don't mind ordering the 6u9z-2005-a booster from ford as I get a little discount from the shop I work at but If I could save a couple $$$ and order the BRB-37 online and only have to live with a notch in my master cylinder then that notch is something I can live with.

Fixed it for ya

Billy T.
[email protected]

gnxtc2 · Jun 23, 2016

What I would do and to keep things simple.

Order the hydroboost from the OBS F-SuperDuty, Motorcraft part # BRB37
Order the master from the OBS F-SuperDuty, Motorcraft part# BRMC39 w/cruise

Remove the proportioning valve from your original master and install it on the F-SD master.

Order the correct hoses for your year truck

and be done with it.

http://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums/18-1994-1997-obs-power-stroke-aftermarket-performance/29267
^^^^I went back to drum brakes because the rear disc kits out there are pure JUNK and don't stop the truck.

Billy T.
[email protected]

old man dave · Jun 23, 2016

Others have just used the stock F-250/350 obs master with the F-SuperDuty hydroboost when using the stock rear drums. Still a bolt-in, still works. The later 99-up Super Duty masters need to be altered to fit. If you want to use the stock pump, just tee into the stock power steering return hose, the hydroboost pump just has another return nipple on it.

The date change applies to the hydroboost to gearbox hose only, the rest of the parts list is the same. Aug. 10, 1997 and earlier take one part number hose and Aug. 11,1997 and later take another part. The gearbox end hose fitting is different.

gnxtc2 · Jun 23, 2016

The stock OBS F250/F350 master does not fit on the F-SD booster without modification. The holes need to be sliced and use fender washers with the nuts. The booster studs are wider than the holes on the OBS F250/350 master.

Billy T.
[email protected]

brewer · Jun 27, 2016

Ford Part #6u9z-2005-a has been recently discontinued and was superseded with part #8u9z-2005-a.

freddie · Jun 28, 2016

I just reused my stock F250 master, but slotted the mounting holes.

Honestly I'd get the hydroboost installed first before worrying about a disc brake conversion. Pretty sure I could stand my truck up on end with drums - the truck stops amazingly well now. Never expected it to be this good.

By the way, the first Magnefine filter I had, leaked where the housing screwed together. I returned it to Napa for a replacement and all is good now.

Lifted_Tea · Jun 30, 2016

gnxtc2: How hard is it to swap out proportioning valves? Don't have a whole lot of experience with brakes and don't want to experiment on my current master to find out I do something wrong and can't put it back together right. I feel like the setup you listed with the f-superduty booster and master would be the cleanest and most secure set up if I can do it easily but I'm also on a budget as I need to save up for a new turbo and electric fuel conversion kit. So If anything I can just slot my current master cylinder and wait till the funds are available to make it a cleaner looking setup.

oldmandave: I actually got a new steering pump cause the old one was leaking bad and it was cheap enough for me just to buy the one with two barbs instead of doing the T. Now I'm just hoping the guys taking the old core don't see the missing barb

freddie: Alright so you CAN reuse your obs master on the BRB37 Booster just by notching it out. Guess I'll order that booster up since we know it comes with the rod and what not. Yeah honestly I'm on the fence about the rear disc swap anyways, too many mixed opinions. I guess I'll see how the truck reacts to the hydroboost and drums first. Good to know I'll keep an eye out for leaks in that area when it comes time to install everything.

Also to everyone I did order the right hoses at least as I test fit them...hope they will fit the BRB37 booster now.

rusty1161 · Jun 30, 2016

The proportioning valve info is here http://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...133798-read-those-hydroboost-conversions.html

Rusty

Lifted_Tea · Jul 5, 2016

rusty1161 said:
The proportioning valve info is here http://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...133798-read-those-hydroboost-conversions.html

Rusty

Do you know of any threads listing the steps involved in the actual swapping of the valves? I understand the difference and the need to swap out the valves due to different brakes from one truck to another I just don't know how to even go about changing the valves out.

rusty1161 · Jul 5, 2016

Lifted_Tea said:
Do you know of any threads listing the steps involved in the actual swapping of the valves? I understand the difference and the need to swap out the valves due to different brakes from one truck to another I just don't know how to even go about changing the valves out.

It's a simple remove and replace deal. The valve is mounted where the rear brake line threads in on the master. Just swap them out.

Rusty

Lifted_Tea · Jul 13, 2016

For those who notched out their original OBS master's how did you do so? I just reamed out the old holes evenly on each side till the master fit the width of the hydro boost bolts. Is this an ok way to do it?