i wanna crack 800 hp.... on a budget

[cbf9703]

my 450 hp is a lot of fun! as long as it stays running right..... 600-650.... id prolly go to jail...

live life full throttle

Or you get a ticket or two and all the cops in town know your truck which starts to limit your fun so you don't get pulled over all the time... :lookaround:

 

[JDub]

I got 231k on my engine and runs like a champ.... Just trying to figure out on either building another block or do a gen 3 hpop, injectors, a Borg warner EFR 8374 tuning and BTS trans.

8374 is gonna be way to small on a 7.3

 

[mikes02ls1]

8374 is gonna be way to small on a 7.3

So the 9180 might be better choice... Love the technology of the EFR turbos...

 

[JDub]

EFR is a very cool turbo but just won't hold up in a diesel application if you push it. I don't the the 9180 will be enough either...

 

[mikes02ls1]

I could try a precision turbo or a nice dual ball bearing. For quicker spool up.

 

[DocBar]

I could try a precision turbo or a nice dual ball bearing. For quicker spool up.

Go big or go home. :rockon:
Compounds is the only reason I haven't bought a 467.7 FMW. And that still isn't out of the question for a HP turbo.

 

[TyCorr]

That truck had A LOT of live tuning at swamps to tune out the torque and put the hp in. Not a good example for anything other than pure competition

dont see why it couldn't be done... thats how they all tune for pmr's around 450hp...

live life full throttle

The way that turbo lights compared to something 65-70mm is night and day. Fuel potential and a quick lighting charger are what bust shti. Thats also what makes a setup fun on the street ironically.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Im just looking for 600rwhp in my 7.3.... im going to get a spare block to build. I so worried on filling the block with me DD my 00 F350, and in Arizona's 120 degree heat.... I see over heating issues unless someone in AZ has done it.... I know I could get away with stock internals but for how long.... Too scared to spend money twice... How do folks do it on cheap ass beer budget....

just so we are clear here fellas, this is the post i am currently talking about... i see no reason what so ever that you cant make a forgex motor last at a measly 600hp... its all in the tuning...

live life full throttle

 

[TyCorr]

Agreed....its not gonna be there for long intervals...

 

[97stoker350]

A 7.3 forged motor tuned to live is not a street truck lol especially one that makes over 600. The thing won't come alive till 2300+. Knock 1k rpms off that number and you have fun... For a couple days

 

[mikes02ls1]

Really, if I can take a bolt on and tuned duramax I'd be happy... In the back of my mind is go big or go home. That is how I did things with my slow 11sec Z28... Just cant decide what to save up for... I know this is atleast a few year project and believe on doing it right the first time. In the diesel community im a green horn, so excuse me for any stupid questions.

 

[m j]

first thing in 'doing it right' is the con rods
build a long block that can handle the stress
Swamps pretty much tells you what is needed

I would skip the efr lineup, the s467 gets you in the 650hp range apparently. plenty enough to have the rods exit the pan

 

[superpsd]

Seems 650hp + in a streetable setup would take a fully built bottom end /hypermax block. I don't see how I would spend thousands on rods, bearings, pistons to put it in a stock block to have it come apart and spit the money out the side of the block.

 

[m j]

that reads as sarcasm.
what hp level requires an aftermarket block?

 

[97stoker350]

If you don't want any problems. 600 hp

 

[superpsd]

@ 10k for just the block at that hp goal a built 12V would start looking like a better budget option.

 

[gnxtc2]

A junkyard 5.3 with 2 turbos on it.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[DocBar]

Seems 650hp + in a streetable setup would take a fully built bottom end /hypermax block. I don't see how I would spend thousands on rods, bearings, pistons to put it in a stock block to have it come apart and spit the money out the side of the block.

Stock block is fine. It all depends on where the power starts. Higher in he RPM band is btter for a 7.3. All n the tuning.

 

[7.3obs]

Stock block is fine. It all depends on where the power starts. Higher in he RPM band is btter for a 7.3. All n the tuning.

I agree, it's all in tuning. By the time you buy 3000$ rods, balance them. Rebuild a motor and put a girdle in it AND you're goal is 600-650. I think you're better off finding a running long block or two and keeping them on stand by for when you throw a rod. The price of all the stuff to have a dependable built long block 650-700 rwhp 7.3 you're better off with some long blocks that you can drop in and depend on tuning.

Am I right? I suppose it depends on personal preference. And it's not like we are driving around with 600 rwhp 24/7. There's a lot of people pushing them numbers on a stock forged rod block and pulling and drag racing. And even dd their trucks ( tuned down when dd).

I got in an argument with my uncle that owns a machine shop over this matter and it's just another person to prove wrong I guess.

My hearts in the 7.3.

Sick of the "put a 12v in it". Turn some heads at the pulls or drags when a 7.3 is running 12's and also out some pulling duramaxs and cummins. Who's with me? :gun:

 

[m j]

rods are $2300 a girdle with studs ~$600
in my experience throwing the rods on to the freeway and riding a towtruck home sucks

if you want to run like that, it appears a nice cheap s475 hits a lot higher in the rpm, so you save $$ on the windmill and its easier on the rods
there are a few guys on the forums with big chargers having a lot longer life span then the guys running the s467 of late