ID this oil leak

[JohnT24]

Can anyone ID where this leak is coming from
I'm not familiar with the part... It is right in front of the oil filter housing on the drivers side/lower engine.

It's a long cylinder type thing... almost looks like a starter would. it looks like the oil is dripping from the front and leaking back towards the oil filter...

it's getting bad.. I need to address this.

Thanks.

.

 

[JohnT24]

 

[Addicted4]

That’s the oil cooler but hard to say where it’s leaking

 

[ncollins64]

Oil cooler. Bet it needs to be rebuilt.

 

[JohnT24]

Oil cooler. Bet it needs to be rebuilt.

Oil cooler... OK thanks...

they sell a rebuild kit?

looks tight to get to. O-rings?

 

[ncollins64]

Yea Ford and alliant sells a rebuilt kit for it. O rings and gaskets.

 

[dmd]

It is a bear to rebuild but doable.. The front bolts are fun to get to. Yea rebuild and replace
all of the gaskets. Clean as much as you can, I mean really clean it while on the truck so
the area is really clean, you will be glad you did when you try to put it back on and keep
junk out of the new clean cooler. Yea, taking it off is a mess but at least it is clean oil
and coolant and can just be wiped up.

Get it done before it gets really cold, the colder it is the more it leaks. Many times it will stop
leaking once the oil warms and softens the o-rings but still makes a mess and loose oil.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Oil cooler is removed in 5 minutes if that.

2 10mm's up front and 3 out back.

I have the luxury of a super hot parts washer, I wash it first and bake it so it falls tight apart, use a soft sledge to knock the end caps off. Use a wire wheel to clean the insides super good of old o ring material. Dielectric grease on all seals upon install. Soft mallet or big vice to put it all back together.

 

[JohnT24]

So I guess it's smart to remove the front AND rear housings...


I watched this video and the guy only removed the rear housing.....


check it out...
https://youtu.be/ZhTSfPspm9Y

 

[co04cobra]

Dear lord. Someone should take that video down so people are not trying to do it that way.

There is also a gasket at the front he didn’t replace doing it that way. Take the whole thing out complete. I use a press when I reinstall end caps but there are numerous ways to do that.

 

[JohnT24]

Dear lord. Someone should take that video down so people are not trying to do it that way.

There is also a gasket at the front he didn’t replace doing it that way. Take the whole thing out complete. I use a press when I reinstall end caps but there are numerous ways to do that.

I hear what your saying.

but on the other hand, It DOES look like the only thing (or the main thing) that leaks on these is the rubber O-rings.

I've actually seen a few videos where they left the front housing in place....

right or wrong...

 

[79jasper]

Do you want to do it right? Or wrong?
Don't forget, you need to drain the coolant first.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[DEEZUZ]

I don't understand. I said the entire thing slides out in minutes. Do it all. Lmao

 

[JohnT24]

I don't understand. I said the entire thing slides out in minutes. Do it all. Lmao

just thinkin out loud keep yer pants on...oke:

I did glance in there today to look at the front mount bolts...
looks like you can get to them through the left wheel well....

cleaning the gasket surface looks like the challenge.... spec'lly when you have andre the giant hands,,

 

[JohnT24]

I don't understand. I said the entire thing slides out in minutes.

when you "slide it out" are you pulling it all out towards the back?

straight out the back?

 

[DEEZUZ]

Drop it, twist it and pull out towards the back. A razor blade for the block mounting area and green scotch Brite for aluminum front cover and your all good.

 

[Patrick Feeley]

JMHO: Use Ford/Motorcraft O-Rings and gaskets only. Don't use aftermarket parts. Too many horror stories of them not sealing. Also, since you have a 95 it probably still has the oil cooler/filter header adapter where the filter bypass valve (spring/washer/disk under where the filter screws on) and the oil pressure regulator valve (on the block side of the adapter) are simple "staked" in. The valve parts can fall out, and in the case of the regulator, may not be noticed. This will usually can a no start due to low oil pressure feeding the HPOP reservoir. Cheers!

 

[JohnT24]

Also, since you have a 95 it probably still has the oil cooler/filter header adapter where the filter bypass valve (spring/washer/disk under where the filter screws on) and the oil pressure regulator valve (on the block side of the adapter) are simple "staked" in. The valve parts can fall out!

Hmm
I will keep an eye out for that.

So these parts are on the backside housing. The oil filter housing...
Behind the gasket?

 

[Patrick Feeley]

Yes. The regulator parts are on the backside of the filter housing. The bypass valve can be viewed when the oil filter is removed. The early trucks as can have these parts just fall out. They updated the housing later to hold the parts in with snap-rings. On my 94, I had the bypass valve parts fall out and noticed them when I changed the oil and found some of the parts in the oil pan. I ended up getting the updated adapter at $139 (they are stupidly expensive now). I mentioned the regulator valve as many folks don't realize that they are there and lose those parts if they fall out unnoticed. Cheers!

 

[JohnT24]

Great info, thanks for the pics.