Just another 7.3 under the knife.

[Garbage_Mechanic]

Assuming charged batteries, lube oil filled, fuel system installed.

If the truck has mechanical fuel, I use a hose off of an old bicycle pump to screw on the schrader valve and put into clear liter bottle to watch action. If electric fuel, make sure pump runs and pressure is up, leave pump run a minute or two, check for leaks.

Spin engine over with remote starter button hooked up under the hood watching the fuel bleed off I described if mechanical fuel, and the threads of the low pressure oil sensor we left loose for signs of pressure building / air escaping. (Can also do the HPOP reservoir fill plug.) The engine can be spun over quite a while without damaging starter or draining batteries. No need of the key being on at this time, you are working on mechanical systems so far. Remove the fuel bleeder hose on mechanical fuel once fuel is coming out consistently. You can install your fuel pressure gauge at this point (on mech fuel) I use the same hose for both.
Keeping he HPOP reservoir full during all this will allow you to work on bleeding HPO system at the same time but if problems with LPO is a concern concentrate on that first.

cont

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

If an extended amount of cranking time has been used (2 minutes or more) stop and put your hand on the starter motor. I have never had one get hot since the engine spins free.
Another way to check on LPO at this point is to pull the lube hose off the turbo and put into a clear bottle. Should see oil flow here, this is straight off the main bearing supply.
(just another benefit of doing this, you know the turbo has lube before firing it up....)
I've never seen it take too long to get LPO up, if say 10 mins of spinning it over has gone by then there is an issue with the pickup tube or something left out draining all the LPO back to pan. That is another post / thread.
Assuming LPO is now up, be sure HPO reservior is full, turn on key with injectors disabled, remove the HPO rail bleed plugs if not already out and crank until steady oil comes out both plugs. Reinstall plugs. Reconnect injector plugs or IDM fuse. Spin over for 3 seconds to a minute, now working the last of the air out of the injectors them selves. Don't do this too long or you will get excess unburnt fuel in cylinders. You can see if fuel is getting injected, it will come out the glow plug hole as fuel vapor while cranking.
Now reinstall the glow plugs. While you are doing this might be good to charge the batteries. Be sure all plugs and fittings are installed tight, everything ready to run.
Now let the glow plugs cycle watching to be sure the cut out like they should. The engine should now fire right up after a very slightly longer than normal cranking time at most. It should run like it has not been apart except for perhaps some extra fuel / oil smoke from injectors being out if in service engine, if new very little smoke. No need to slam brand new injector pistons around due to air in fuel and oil systems, and no need to have to "drive it lie you stole it" to get the air out of the HPO system.
Last set of injectors I put in using this procedure I started it up, looked for leaks, letting it idle while I put tools away, shut it down, rechecked fluids, installed air intake, washed up, changed shirt, loaded family in truck, wife driving (her truck) and went to Saturday night dinner. Not one hiccup.

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

MeToo

Looking through your recent pics, something caught my eye. Looking at the pic of the back of the block, flywheel area. I noticed a drain tube installed that drains the valley out the bottom with out dumping it in the clutch area first. Did you fab that or does it look like a T-444E part that came on that engine? I was seriously looking at fabbing that up.
An exploding HPOP (lost rear snap ring) cost me a brand new clutch once.
I've never seen on before but I think as along as it is check and kept clear it could be a nice touch.

 

[MeTo]

1st, thanks for taking the time to write a very informative reply. Much appreciated!

The valley drain tube is just a 3/8" 90 degree elbow and about 10" of tubing. The elbow is a little unique in that it has a 1/2" fitting rib (see pic) soldered on the outside of the 3/8" elbow solder connection that goes into the valley drain hole. That feature provides a very snug (tapped it in with a hammer) fit in the valley hole. I did put some red Loctite on it to ensure a good seal. Because I extended the tube into the drain hole in the bottom of the block, the tube can't go anywhere. The rear cover on the back of the block also protrudes over the tube, thereby eliminating the possibility of the elbow vibrating out of the valley drain hole. That tube is very secure!

I have only turned the engine over for about 5 seconds total. I'm paranoid!

I filled the oil filter and filled the HPOP reservoir. The HPOP reservoir was empty after turning it over for 5 seconds. I refilled it then. The HPOP reservoir has stayed full over night. Evidently the valve is functioning fine. I disconnected the valve cover gasket connectors to prevent startup. I bleed the efuel system and then removed the fuse to prevent the pump running during the rest of the pre-start duties. Batteries are charged and the cables/batteries are two years old. I was attempting to bleed the HPO by connecting a hydraulic hose from the ICP port and the front port on the passenger side head and run the other end into the oil fill tube. Turning the engine over for a few seconds purges/bleeds each head very well. This when I was staring at the oil pressure gauge.

I'm going to make a pre-oiler out of a "potato bug sprayer"/Hudson brand). I will plum it in the port on the oil filter housing. The sprayer container is translucent, so I can see when about 3 quarts have been shoved in. I have a drain valve in the oil pan, so removing the excess oil after I have oil pressure will not be an issue.

I thought about pre-lubing the engine while it was still on the engine stand, I'm regretting that now.

Thanks again for your time and expertise.

 

[MeTo]

Since everyone is at the edge of their seats. I thought I would post the good news. I have oil pressure! It took 21 seconds. If I ever do this again, extremely doubtful. I will most definitely pre-lube and prime the oil pump with the engine still in the engine stand.

 

[MeTo]

8 seconds of cranking and it started. Since fuel and HPO was already bleed, it idled pretty smooth on the 1000 rpm high idle tune.

Warmed it up, checked for leaks, all systems appear go and did a 6 mile test trip. No leaks, topped up fluids, installed cac tubes, air filters and transfer case skid plate. Now it just a matter of piling on some break in miles.


And last, thanks again Garbage Mechanic for taking the time. You obviously stand above the crowed here.

 

[Kowboy]

Well I got the heads off today. The pistons are 10 over and all look good from the top. There is NO crosshatch visible. I can feel a ridge on the top of the wall, but it's about a thousandth or two? The engine has ~104,000 miles on it.

For an engine I just wanted to run. I would break the glaze, hand fit the rings and run it. I'm not sure with this thing? What say you?

I know this is an old post but thought I would ask.
I am going to be replacing the transmission in my truck and would like to know where I can get the Oilite pilot shaft bushing. Was this custom or do you have a part number?
Thank You

 

[MeTo]

I had it machined locally. The new South Bend clutch came with a kevlar bushing. I just purchased a piece of oilite stock on ebay. Then I took the kevlar bushing and the oilite stock to a local machinist, $45.

Ford's "OEM" Chinese pilot bearing wasn't an option. Mine would not have last too much longer.

I did a lot of research on the new fancy "plastic" bushings which are CHEAPER to manufacture. They have their followers. I'm staying with the tried and true oilite. I'm 61, it will probably out last me?

 

[Kowboy]

Thank You for taking the time to reply. Looks like I will do something similar.

 

[MeTo]

I'm glad I could help. Good luck.

While your in their, I would recommend replacing the fork (pron to cracking) and the ball pivot stud. I found some new old stock at a place in Kansas.

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

"And last, thanks again Garbage Mechanic for taking the time. You obviously stand above the crowed here."

Nice to know someone is listening. I'm 57 been doing this stuff since I was 13.

Directing others and specifying trucks and parts for 30 years.

I'm going through our 96 right now with the idea we are going to drive it until we can't drive anymore.

 

[MeTo]

"And last, thanks again Garbage Mechanic for taking the time. You obviously stand above the crowed here."

Nice to know someone is listening. I'm 57 been doing this stuff since I was 13.

Directing others and specifying trucks and parts for 30 years.

I'm going through our 96 right now with the idea we are going to drive it until we can't drive anymore.

Well that's definitely embarrassing. 8.28.57 is 61 years old. A typo, Alzheimer's meds, I don't know? Maybe that one way walk into the forest (natives) isn't that far off?

 

[psduser1]

Old f***s.
Lol, some people will listen to the guy that has done a thing once or twice. Not most, but some.

 

[Garbage_Mechanic]

What?

Well that's definitely embarrassing. 8.28.57 is 61 years old. A typo, Alzheimer's meds, I don't know? Maybe that one way walk into the forest (natives) isn't that far off?