II 250/200 AD hybrids w/oil side mods
Gt42r
Big DIIC
Crower Rods
Mahle Pistons..coated
DI Cam
DI Uppipes
DI Headers
DP Tuner
IDM Mod
Built small block from DI..Coated and balanced
Hypermax rev kit
Modded heads
Termy oil
DI fuel system
Cooling Mist stage 2
640/1100 on fuel/ [email protected] on fuel
I believe Swamps has built a number of engines 600HP with 200% nozzles and one of their turbos. David would need to confirm this of course.
It seems Matt@gearhead agrees 200s puts out plenty of fuel for 600
But thanks for the advice, sounds like maybe i should stick with the 200% and keep tweaking to make power. Shouldnt be difficult with a 350/200 to break 550 should it?
600+ is possible very easily
Okay, thats what i had heard. Thanks Matt!
Another Diesel Power Article titled
21 Dyno-Proven Ford Power Combinations Key here is dyno proven. Not sure who was the technical source for the data but I know for most articles its many times coming from one of our site vendors. If you check it out 200% nozzle and 71mm range comp wheel turbo.
Right here from our owns site's Library 7.3 performance section
"How to make 600 - 700 RWHP 7.3L"
The parameter of this thread was:
"To a list of their dyno/race proven combination of parts and tunes to reach a good reliable 600 - 700 rwhp - 7.3L build."
Of the three two state 200% injectors and swamps states 300cc and nozzles based on application which means there is a choice my bet is 200% 400% and who knows what else as those David and his crew have done just about everything possible at one time or another.
There is a thread around here on one of the forums that list IIRC a couple more but I did not find it with a quick search and didn't feel like digging pointlessly.
I would say the minimum setup is a 70-71mm turbo, 250/200% injectors, HPOP: SPR-1/Stage I or any of the dual HPOP Swamps Gen3 etc, + supporting engine and trans mods/upgrades. I think the above data supports this.
Tycorr,
I do agree that if you put streetablity aside as far as a single turbo is concerned that with a larger turbo ( more lag) and 400% you could get the 600HP at a lower CP/TQ level with higher rpms which from the stand point of rods bending and block flexing is certainly a positive. No question by adding in compounds you get the best of both worlds or close to it no lag and great power all the way thru bottom to top. I was never in disagreement on what would be better/best from those standpoints. We are in agreement there.
To bring this back on track for the thread: (Sorry Co04cobra)
The issue is IMO with compounds comes the need for a built bottom end and not with forged rods. The fact that the compounds bring the power on right from the bottom end straight and thru to the top I think is the issue. That added stress. You are running boost and power much more than the slower boost building of the single setup. Yes I guess you could tune around it but then whats the point of the compounds then? It would kill all the fun. I doubt any of use could say no to standing on a compound setup. Just to much damn fun.
I really think if you have stock parts look for a 38R cheap someone is dumping or if you can get make a kit for a T4 something of similar size. A 366 would work well also. Then to keep money low look for a pull off gt47 like you got your gt4594. Jose can mod if for you if you need or want a wheel change and housings. Such as turn it into a 5518. Or if you find a cheap 5533 as I have seen a couple times a the smaller 4718 comp wheel thats more fittings to compounds IMO. The reason I mention the 38R is you likely will have the stock mount. Since your current turbo is a T6 you are likely going to need a T4 for any other HP turbo you run so that means another mount kit.
If you are building this stuff yourself or have a friend doing it then I guess its open to whatever as its just metal costs.
But a 366/38r/some other such turbo size as Marty has stated. Match that up with a GT47 or something of similar size. But IMO you should look at the comp map of the wheel you will be using. You want a map with broad islands at the lower PR ranges. On that put the largest housing you can unless possibly you end up with some GT55/S500 beast. Two gates would be ideal but one is mandatory. HP turbo gate>Intermediate pipe>Atmosphere. Most likely without a gate on the atmosphere boost will get away from you once shes fully lit.