Loud cab says you, no says I

UNBROKEN · Dec 17, 2015

Whatever you can find that has the most weight per sqft for the least amount of money.
As far as where it goes, it would be the final layer over your CLD and CCF. For the best results you literally want to line the whole truck with it from the firewall back. I'm not a fan of doing too many treatments to the roof....not much tire or other noise up there and you get more wind noise around the glass than you will through the roof skin.
A big help even after all these years is surgical tubing inside the door seals. That old trick will probably drop you 5db all by itself.

Cknox121 · Dec 21, 2015

UNBROKEN said:
Whatever you can find that has the most weight per sqft for the least amount of money.
As far as where it goes, it would be the final layer over your CLD and CCF. For the best results you literally want to line the whole truck with it from the firewall back. I'm not a fan of doing too many treatments to the roof....not much tire or other noise up there and you get more wind noise around the glass than you will through the roof skin.
A big help even after all these years is surgical tubing inside the door seals. That old trick will probably drop you 5db all by itself.

Thanks...

The owner at RAAMat insisted I didn't need any with his products, hence why he doesn't even sell any. Interesting to know though. I will probably install what I have and see how I like it.

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UNBROKEN · Dec 21, 2015

And if he sold MLV he would recommend it all day long...guaranteed.
Different products do different things.
CLD is a vibration dampener.
CCF is a decoupler and helps with squeaks and such.
MLV is the actual sound barrier.

Your CLD/CCF combo will absolutely make a difference but the frequencies you're trying to block at highway speeds are MLV territory.

snik · Dec 21, 2015

UNBROKEN said:
Whatever you can find that has the most weight per sqft for the least amount of money.
As far as where it goes, it would be the final layer over your CLD and CCF. For the best results you literally want to line the whole truck with it from the firewall back. I'm not a fan of doing too many treatments to the roof....not much tire or other noise up there and you get more wind noise around the glass than you will through the roof skin.
A big help even after all these years is surgical tubing inside the door seals. That old trick will probably drop you 5db all by itself.

Please, tell me more about this surgical tubing. I def agree the doors and windows are major noise sources.

snik · Dec 21, 2015

Never mind. Found it. Very cool. I'm doing that for sure.

Rupp250 · Dec 23, 2015

MLV Source

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/mlv-noise-barriers/

TyCorr · Dec 23, 2015

UNBROKEN said:
And if he sold MLV he would recommend it all day long...guaranteed.
Different products do different things.
CLD is a vibration dampener.
CCF is a decoupler and helps with squeaks and such.
MLV is the actual sound barrier.

Your CLD/CCF combo will absolutely make a difference but the frequencies you're trying to block at highway speeds are MLV territory.

So after you layer all that crap how thick is it? I wonder if I can use foil butyl tape that I have cases of laying around? Or is the audio stuff better?

And do you put back the oem carpet with that jute on the backside or get unbacked carpet? I need a new rug anyway.

TyCorr · Dec 23, 2015

snik said:
Please, tell me more about this surgical tubing. I def agree the doors and windows are major noise sources.

One thing i actually understand lol. You feed surgical tubing through the void in the rubber weatherstrip seal on each door. You want it just thick enough to hold the shape of that hollow if not ever so slightly expanded. It gives the seal some body and allows it to seal tight against the body and door. The stuff relaxes after a while.

Cknox121 · Dec 23, 2015

TyCorr said:
So after you layer all that crap how thick is it? I wonder if I can use foil butyl tape that I have cases of laying around? Or is the audio stuff better?

And do you put back the oem carpet with that jute on the backside or get unbacked carpet? I need a new rug anyway.

I would say maybe an 1/8-1/4 thick. Nothing major. I had no issues putting my panels back on. Honestly they fit better. Very snug

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Strokin&Smokin · Dec 25, 2015

So if I don't have rattles or anything and I just want to quiet the road noise at hwy speeds I'm def gonna do the surgical tubing but if I had to put one layer of these products behind the door panels which would it be?

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Cknox121 · Dec 25, 2015

Strokin&Smokin said:
So if I don't have rattles or anything and I just want to quiet the road noise at hwy speeds I'm def gonna do the surgical tubing but if I had to put one layer of these products behind the door panels which would it be?

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CDL MLV would be good. I'm going to order some for the doors and back wall.

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Cknox121 · Dec 25, 2015

I cut the BXT and Ensolite for the front doors. It's been way to humid here to actually install anything.

On another note, just doing the rear 2 doors, the dB meter on my phone dropped 3-5dB between 70-80 mph.

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Cknox121 · Dec 31, 2015

More progress. Did the front 2 doors. 150% coverage with BXT on the outer skin, followed with a couple strips of Ensolite. RAAMat's site says to only use a 8x8 piece behind the speaker, but I covered around 50% of the door. For the inner skin I used a layer of BXT, 100% coverage and layer of Ensolite, 100% coverage. I also reapplied the factory MLV if that is in fact what it actually is on top of the 2 layers.

After completing all the doors, it was made a huge difference! I was able to carry on a casual conversation at normal tone and hear my passenger easily. Tire noise is very minimal.

Although it is quieter, the back was "noise" and under the dash is more pronounced. I will target the back wall when I have time next.

As a hind sight, I wish I would have did 150-200% on the outer skin in the back doors. The fronts are noticeably more solid sounding when tapping on them.