Truck is in my signature. Been to the dealership 3 times now for the same issue. Without trying to use 4wd the 4X4 light in the dash starts blinking. Most times it's at start up of the truck. The when it's doing this sometimes you can switch the 4x4 knob and it goes into 4wd and other times it does nothing and continues to blink. If you try and get it to shift while blinking it sometimes will stop working all together (like the TC is in neutral) and tonight it tried shifting into low range at 40 MPH (lots of grinding and banging) not good. The dealer has replaced the shift motor twice. The module that controls it once or twice, checked every connector pin and wire. They had it for a month over the summer, thought they had it this time? Of course now that it's winter and I need my truck the most and need 4wd it decides to take a sh!t again! Looking for some MAJOR help here. I know the tech at the dealership, he's tried everything and has a ton of time in it already and calls to Ford. Looking for something new to look for or someone who's had the same issue. Have had good luck with the truck other than this. This issue has been a total PITA! HELP PLEASE!
MAJOR HELP needed. Transfer case issues
- Thread starter skevac
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RescueF250
New member
When did all the issues actually start randomly or maybe after a cab removal job ?
Actually started acting up after they had to pull the whole dash out twice to put a blend door motor in for the heater. Could be coincidence? Who knows? All I know is that I'm pretty frustrated at this point! It really acts like a loose/bad connection somewhere? It comes on and goes off randomly. Wish it just had the lever on the floor!
RescueF250
New member
Pop the 4wd switch off the dash see if it has a bad conection or swap it out with a known good one. Sounds you have an issue behind the dash if that's when it all started.
The tech swapped the switch from another truck when they worked on it last time. No dice! I would like them to replace every sensor, switch, controller that has to do with the 4wd system. But when you're dealing with warranty gotta jump through their hoops. I Guarantee doing that would be way cheaper than replacing the transfer case and the rest of the sh!t it'll take out if it tries to shift into low range at 60 MPH! Not to mention if that happens getting into a wreck!
How does the tech know the swapped in switch was functioning correctly? Were the motors new, used, reman?
Does the problem still occur with the switch unplugged? How about the t-case motor? Maybe pinout the harness and run some basic continuity testing to see if anything is pinched. I cannot imagine there is that much to the system.
Could an ECU reflash with the wrong data cause this? Manual t-case file installed over the SOTF file?
With SOTF, maybe checking on what it reads in order to sync... VSS'? ABS? Speedo input? Any of these causing issues or acting odd?
I would just unplug the motor if you are worried about it dropping into 4x4 while driving, turning, etc.
Just tossing some ideas out there that are easy for you to test.
Try to answer your questions in order. Not sure on the switch or the parts? Haven't tried unplugging the switch yet. Unplugged the motor and as far as the lights blinking in the dash they do the exact same thing as if it were plugged in. Basically what happens is when you start the truck with the switch in the 2wd position it's normal for about 5 seconds and then the 4 low light starts blinking. From driving it and trying to figure some things out I've found that if the 4 low light is blinking that's when it sometimes tries to shift into 4 low on it's own. (This can happen while in gear and moving. Supposed to be in neutral and stopped leads me to lean towards a speed sensor possibility) When it's blinking 4 low I'll take and move the knob (while sitting still) to the 4 high position then back to 2 hi. Then it will blink 4 hi usually for quite a while. Then after a while it may quit blinking all together (normal) or sometimes it starts blinking 4 low again. This happens all on it's own while the switch is in 2 hi. Had to go into the hardware store the other day. When I got there no light blinking. Went in got what I needed came out started the truck went to leave and it was in 4 low. Had to shut of and restart the truck 3 or 4 times to get it out of 4 low. Driving yesterday got to a stop sign went to take off nothing. T case was like in neutral (no grinding). Had to restart it 2 times to get it working again. So apparently whenever you cycle the key it resets the controller? It's kind of funny that you can get so frustrated that you look right past the simple things. Like just unplugging the t case motor. (why didn't I think of that? it is now!) Going to try plugging it back in and unplugging the switch to see what that does. You're the first person that's at given any sort of direction. It's under warranty. The last time it was in for this issue they had it for a month and thought it was fixed. I'm trying to help diagnose it some myself because apperently they aren't doing a very good job at it? Another thing these trucks are so heavy up front that they are absolutely useless in a couple of inches of snow without 4wd. The rear end can't seem to push the heavy front through it. Thanks for the ideas and I would appreciate more.
My cclb 350 has 5300lbs on the front and 3500lbs on the rear empty with a full tank of fuel.
Another small update. Drove it this morning with the t-case shift motor unplugged. On the way to where I was going no 4wd light flashing on the dash. Shut it off started it back up and it started flashing 4 low. So it's doing the same thing even though the motor is unplugged.
Swap in manual t-case and problem solved..?! There are a ton of little things that could be causing a problem like yours.
It may be the next simple thing you swap OR you might spend dayssss running tests and ohming out wires.
The quickest/easiest fix is a t-case swap. JMO.
It may be the next simple thing you swap OR you might spend dayssss running tests and ohming out wires.
The quickest/easiest fix is a t-case swap. JMO.
I agree that if it had a manual t-case this wouldn't be an issue. But that's why I have a warranty. I shouldn't have to worry about how long or how many hours. (sucks for the tech) I'm just trying to help myself out so they don't have my truck forever. Haven't found a dealership that gives out F350s for loaners. Take in your truck and they send you out with a car that would fit in the truck box!
Just thought I would give an update on this subject. Took it back to the dealer after driving it for a few months with the 4x4 light blinking and the 4x4 actuator unplugged (so it couldn't shift on it's own). It finally had some codes in it when I took it in this time (not sure what they were). They had already put in a new switch, shift motor and ohmed and traced wires and thought it was fixed 2 times prior. They ended up putting a new smart junction box in it and it seems to be working at this point. I say at this point as the 2 previous times it worked right for a while also. My finger are crossed at this point.
Zmann
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aside from the wires being the issue this was the last actual "hard Part"
fingers crossed for ya !
fingers crossed for ya !
White_monster
Active member
I was just going to mention the smart junction box.
Wish you would have mentioned it about a year and a half ago! LOL! :thumbsup:
08REDSLED
Member
Where is the smart junction box located?
I believe it's behind the kick panel on the floorboard passenger side front .
Well I guess crossing my fingers didn't work. Truck is doing the same thing again. They thought it was the smart junction box last time and replaced it. Does anyone know if running LED bulbs could be affecting the smart junction box (if that's what's causing the issue again). I have LED bulbs installed in all my interior lights, reverse lights, cargo lamp and switchback turnsignal bulbs with the resistor so they don't hyperflash. I've been running these the whole time I've been fighting this issue. The ones in the interior stay really dim lit after the light actually goes off. Just looking for anything that could be causing this issue. At this point I'm probably going to switch them all back to stock. What a pain in the a$$! From what little I know about the smart junction box it detects voltage draw. Hopefully someone on here has some knowledge on this and can help me out. :wtf:
Petro
Well-known member
Do you happen to have a list of the codes it's throwing or a way to check them? I've worked on a few of these superduty ESOTF systems and they can be a pain in the ass to figure out.
I don't have the codes, but know the tech and could try and get the ones from the last time. Pain in the ass is an understatement. Been in the shop 4 times for the same thing and they have had it about a month every time. And it always seems to act up in the winter time when I actually need 4wd. :wtf: If you have time you can read back further in the thread for what it's done in the past. Thanks for your response.
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