My truck crapped the bed today

V-Ref · Apr 5, 2014

Doc

The newer trucks are great. Hate to yet another 7.3 guy bite the dust. Even if it's a short block issue (hope it's not, but in my opinion it is) I'd say a $1500 bill to have a short block tanked/fluxed/line bore/tq plate honed is a lot cheaper than a new truck.

Are your current pistons std bore or .030 over?

DocBar · Apr 6, 2014

V-Ref said:
Doc

The newer trucks are great. Hate to yet another 7.3 guy bite the dust. Even if it's a short block issue (hope it's not, but in my opinion it is) I'd say a $1500 bill to have a short block tanked/fluxed/line bore/tq plate honed is a lot cheaper than a new truck.

Are your current pistons std bore or .030 over?

I'm not sure on the bore. I'd have to ask David Lott. He built the motor.

I tried to start the truck this morning, but it's seized up. Probably hydro-locked.
Would that be a good thing and maybe indicate I don't have a cracked piston?

:shrug:

weekendwarriorfsw32 · Apr 6, 2014

I'm likening the theory of the injector that's either stuck open and dumping fuel in or the injector backed out and the copper washer got burned up and is letting fuel just flow in. Did you smell the oil on the inspection cover to see if it had a fuel smell?

DocBar · Apr 6, 2014

weekendwarriorfsw32 said:
I'm likening the theory of the injector that's either stuck open and dumping fuel in or the injector backed out and the copper washer got burned up and is letting fuel just flow in. Did you smell the oil on the inspection cover to see if it had a fuel smell?

No, I didn't smell that. Everything was still reeking of diesel fuel under the truck, though.

I guess I'll throw the 250/100's back in when it's all said and done. And go with the ZQSSB.

Like was stated before, a short block is cheaper than a new truck payment. Plus I'm planning on buying a new 5th wheel this summer.

I'm going to see if I can find a bore scope small enough to fit in the injector hole and do an inspection before pulling the motor. If the internals are ok, would the motor still have to come out to replace the rear main seal?

ghohouston · Apr 6, 2014

If the motor is hydrolocled, you have a pretty darn good chance an injector is just dumping fuel. And for the rear main, i believe, unless you want to pull the tranny, the motor does need to come out. I'd rather pull a motor than a trans imo...

Groomzybanshee · Apr 6, 2014

Just pull the trans. For the rear main.

DocBar · Apr 6, 2014

ghohouston said:
If the motor is hydrolocled, you have a pretty darn good chance an injector is just dumping fuel. And for the rear main, i believe, unless you want to pull the tranny, the motor does need to come out. I'd rather pull a motor than a trans imo...

That sounds like craziness to me!! :swordfight:

pontiacross · Apr 6, 2014

will the engine turn over backward by hand? if it is a cracked nozzle it very easily could fill a cylinder up with fuel just by turning the key on and letting the fuel pump run. if it will turn over backward a little bit by hand pull all the glowplugs and turn it over forward by hand to see which cylinder is full of fuel

V-Ref · Apr 6, 2014

pontiacross said:
I bet you cracked a injector nozzle. seen it quite a few times on dt466 and 530's. tic or nock, huge amounts of smoke, raw fuel smell, and fuel dripping out the exhaust ( usually looks like oil because it mixes with soot) if you run it very long it could end up with a melted piston though. you can here the turbo spooling in the video and usually if they put that much oil in the exhaust to make it smoke like that they don't spin very good anymore LOL the fuel or oil you are leaking is probably coming from a small leak in an uppipe and running down the transmission

I think he nailed it here....that's my vote too after watching the video.

I wouldn't run the truck anymore. IC piping off, VC off. Pull the GPs. Use a syringe/vacuum pump to evac all the cylinders via the GP hole. Compression test....hope for good news there, and if your lucky that the tick is injector nozzle related. Pull injectors. Find your oil leak in the valley you spoke of earlier while the truck is all apart and get that fixed.

ghohouston · Apr 6, 2014

DocBar said:
That sounds like craziness to me!! :swordfight:

Just how I feel. I've never been a fan of pulling transmissions though

DocBar · Apr 6, 2014

ghohouston said:
Just how I feel. I've never been a fan of pulling transmissions though

I've never pulled a 4R100, but I've several TH350/400 swaps. Piece of cake. The 4R100 is a monster compared to those, though.

ghohouston · Apr 6, 2014

Yes, MUCH larger and heavier tranny

01PSD · Apr 6, 2014

ghohouston said:
Yes, MUCH larger and heavier tranny

I didn't enjoy it :badidea:

DocBar · Apr 6, 2014

ghohouston said:
Yes, MUCH larger and heavier tranny

01PSD said:
I didn't enjoy it :badidea:

Well since it's going to John Wood's in the morning, I don't think pulling the tranny will be a problem!! :rockon:

powerstrokenstang · Apr 6, 2014

I vote cracked nozzle too. And the fluid leak is prob fuel outta uppipe like ross said.
As to pulling motor instead of trans is nut lol i can drop the 6spd outta the puller in 1.5 hrs by myself and have alot of extra saftey stuff to remove/fight.

bluedge8 · Apr 6, 2014

DocBar said:
I'm not sure on the bore. I'd have to ask David Lott. He built the motor.

I tried to start the truck this morning, but it's seized up. Probably hydro-locked.
Would that be a good thing and maybe indicate I don't have a cracked piston?

:shrug:

My vote is a broken nozzle, I had a guy locally here do something similar, then when I went to help him with it, it was seized up, I rotated it by hand back and forth until I was able to turn it over completely by hand, then bumped the starter and it turned over, so I knew I cleared the cyl out. Unfortunately the shop he brought it to claimed it to be a bad motor but it was just a broken nozzle. Did the motor "hit" hard when it was seized or just not turn over?

DocBar · Apr 6, 2014

bluedge8 said:
My vote is a broken nozzle, I had a guy locally here do something similar, then when I went to help him with it, it was seized up, I rotated it by hand back and forth until I was able to turn it over completely by hand, then bumped the starter and it turned over, so I knew I cleared the cyl out. Unfortunately the shop he brought it to claimed it to be a bad motor but it was just a broken nozzle. Did the motor "hit" hard when it was seized or just not turn over?

It hit hard, so I'm thinking hydro-locked rather than something bent. John put the injectors in for me, so I'm counting on his reputation to give me an honest answer as to the cause. I'll send the 400/200's back to FFD and have them gone through. They've been riding around with me for about 2 years. Just got around to having them put in In late Feb. Not sure what that does to a warranty.

TyCorr · Apr 6, 2014

Swaan said:
I'm sorry but tell me how a turbo gives you a dead cylinder and a tick or piston slap. And oil coming from inside the bell housing is nothing to do with turbo.
His turbos the least of his worries right now. :doh:

You do realize there is a drain in the valley and it runs down the side of the motor and all over that cover? Any top end oil leaks wind up doing just what he's showing. If the oil was pouring out of the hole in the cover only then I agree with you on the rear main.

I had people telling me I had a bad piston for years and it was the power steering pulley. I knew that's what it was. It sounded bad. I finally changed it because I get tired of hearing the piston comments. LOL

You may be right however.