fordornothing
New member
I was told you have to use the ford rtv due to crank case pressure, the right stuff, even the black won't seal.
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Oil pan seal
- Thread starter fordornothing
- Start date
gnxtc2
Active member
Ford has two versions for sealant; one is for oil pan use and the other is for intakes. Ford also has a black RTV which works great.
I used the Wacker stuff from Int'l for use in a caulk gun.
Billy T.
[email protected]
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I used the Wacker stuff from Int'l for use in a caulk gun.
Billy T.
[email protected]
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fordornothing
New member
The stuff I used said for use on oil pans.
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hucorey
Member
Use the stuff from International. RiffRaff and dieselorings stock it. Or go to an IH truck shop.
fordornothing
New member
Found why it was leaking, missed a spot 1/2" long.
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gnxtc2
Active member
Garbage_Mechanic
Member
LEAK FINDING TECHNIQUE
Over the past 35 years working on diesels I have developed a failsafe way to find these kind of leaks. Here is what I do:
Using shop air regulated to less than 5 psi, couple an air hose to the crancase vent (CCV hose). With the oil filler cap off and dipstick in tight add air pressure to the crankcase until you can just feel it want to blow your hand off of the fill hole. Put the filler cap back on and proceed to look for leaks with soapy water. I have done this multiple times, even experimented with hom much pressure is too much. The dipstick blew out before anything else went wrong.
For instance, I had a small leak inside the bellhousing I couldn't find. After trying everything else, I found the top corners of the rear main seal plate were leaking. This is like 10" above the level of the oil, but after extended high speed running it would leak about 4 drops. I would never found it without compressed air. I also found a dipstick adaptor that refused to be fixed, there was a groove in the dipstick hole where the o ring was supposed to seat. And I had a pesky leak I thought was the front crank seal, but turned out to be the pan to front cover silicone joint, which I fixed with IH grey sealant. Worth trying at least.
Over the past 35 years working on diesels I have developed a failsafe way to find these kind of leaks. Here is what I do:
Using shop air regulated to less than 5 psi, couple an air hose to the crancase vent (CCV hose). With the oil filler cap off and dipstick in tight add air pressure to the crankcase until you can just feel it want to blow your hand off of the fill hole. Put the filler cap back on and proceed to look for leaks with soapy water. I have done this multiple times, even experimented with hom much pressure is too much. The dipstick blew out before anything else went wrong.
For instance, I had a small leak inside the bellhousing I couldn't find. After trying everything else, I found the top corners of the rear main seal plate were leaking. This is like 10" above the level of the oil, but after extended high speed running it would leak about 4 drops. I would never found it without compressed air. I also found a dipstick adaptor that refused to be fixed, there was a groove in the dipstick hole where the o ring was supposed to seat. And I had a pesky leak I thought was the front crank seal, but turned out to be the pan to front cover silicone joint, which I fixed with IH grey sealant. Worth trying at least.
fordornothing
New member
I have no idea, but there sure wasn't anything there! I did let it run for a while and I watched it steadily drip out of that spot. But in the process of tearing it apart again I found a bad u joint, managed to break two pressure plate bolts off in The flywheel. I tried to drill them out and the bit walked of center and into the flywheel. And while addressing the water pump leak I found that the impeller had wore into the housing. So to say the least I didn't get it back on the road.
Garbage mech, thank you for the advice! I will remember that in the future.
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Garbage mech, thank you for the advice! I will remember that in the future.
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fordornothing
New member
Holy fuqing oil leak. So first leak was the dipstick deal. Not a bad leak but a few drips off the pan. Then the big leak. Somewhere on the back of the engine?? That's what I don't know. So there is oil coming out of the drain hole in the bottom of the bell housing, and literally almost pouring out now. Thing that gets me is what I can feel on the inside edge of the housing is dry. The plate that bolts to the face of the bell housing is dry. What I can see on the back of the engine is dry. No oil in the valley, or on top of the bell housing. How do you get that much oil to come out of nowhere? There is a small streak down the pan where the dipstick plug is leaking but not enough for the leak it has. I pressurized the crank case and the only air leak I found was at the dip stick. I'm freaking lost now. Getting tired of tearing this thing apart.
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fordornothing
New member
Bump
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gnxtc2
Active member
Remove the torque converter inspection cover and see where it's coming from. Maybe a turbo pedestal o-ring got cut, damaged or dislodged on the installed. For it to be leaking as much as you say, something is wrong.
Billy T.
[email protected]
Billy T.
[email protected]
fordornothing
New member
6 speed. All it has is a plate that bolts to the face of the bell housing. Even at that I can't see anything. I'll double check the I rings
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fordornothing
New member
Even if it was pedestal o rings, wouldn't there be some oil on the outside of the bell housing and in the valley?
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lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Nope... runs right down the back and between the bell housing and block. Everyone who doesnt know thinks its the rear main leaking which is extremely rare on a 7.3. Have you ever noticed that the engine sits at an angle? Thats why you never see oil in front of the turbo in the valley.
live life full throttle
fordornothing
New member
Well I'll pull the turbo and see if those are cut. I replaced those when I had the engine out. I had the up pipes loose when I bolted the turbo down so I don't think they would have moved but I've been wrong before. I highly doubted it was the rear main anyways.
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lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Hose it all down with brake cleaner and let it idle for a bit. Get an extendo mirror to get back behind the bottom of the turbo and check with a flashlight.... might save ya from having to take the turbo off again and using up good orings....
live life full throttle
fordornothing
New member
Thanks for the advice!
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lincolnlocker
Well-known member
fordornothing
New member
Well from what I could see, it looked like the pedestal o rings were leaking. So I replaced them and had a epic fail.
So I replaced them again. Went to the car wash and washed the trans and back of the block the best I could. So far it still has a drip coming out of the same point, along with several other places. But it's hard to tell if it's just residual, or still leaking. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens.
If this doesn't fix it, what are some other thoughts on points it could be leaking from? I looked at the HPO plugs at the back of the heads and those are dry.
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So I replaced them again. Went to the car wash and washed the trans and back of the block the best I could. So far it still has a drip coming out of the same point, along with several other places. But it's hard to tell if it's just residual, or still leaking. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens.
If this doesn't fix it, what are some other thoughts on points it could be leaking from? I looked at the HPO plugs at the back of the heads and those are dry.
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Garbage_Mechanic
Member
I have had a HPO leak that didn't show up until towing. It would leak a little when you got on it hard, but by the time you checked it out it wasn't specific. It also ran down the top edge of the valve cover and didn't go hardly anywhere else. Stayed in the little V between the head and the top of the valve cover till it go to the back, made me think it was the pedistal for a while. Turned out to be the oring on the 90 for the HPOP line, but it didn't leak significantly until hard accel or towing.
