Oil pan seal

fordornothing · Apr 7, 2014

This will leak at an idle, and more so when it's hot. It will drip every 4-5 seconds.

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Lang · Apr 8, 2014

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/oil-pan-gasket/

fordornothing · Apr 9, 2014

I've seen those. Are they any good?

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Lang · Apr 9, 2014

Don't know but someone needs to be the guinea pig lol

lincolnlocker · Apr 9, 2014

Lang said:
Don't know but someone needs to be the guinea pig lol

Clay wouldnt sell them if they didnt!

live life full throttle

fordornothing · Apr 9, 2014

Guinea pig... Not this guy!
I saw a article in diesel power I think and they used one along with the Moroso pan. But it never said if it worked.
Well I got the trans out last night hard to tell where it's coming from since everything is wet. Rear main is greasy but not excessively wet. The plate that covers most of the back of the block is pretty wet but more so on the radius under the rear main on the pan.

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CTFFEMT · Apr 9, 2014

I just want to make sure I'm following right...

So you still have oil leaking from the back of the motor but with no obvious source. Correct?

you replaced the turbo o-rings on the pedestal surface that mates with the turbo. Correct?

No oil in the valley or anywhere on top of the motor. Correct?

Rear main is greasy, but no oil between the block and the rear cover plate?

No more oil from the dipstick / dipstick housing?

sooooo if those are correct...

What about the o-rings between the block and turbo pedestal?

Did you re-silicone the rear plate?

When I rebuilt my motor I did replace the rear main seal while I was there. Although as previously mentioned, rare for the rear main to leak, it is possible

fordornothing · Apr 11, 2014

All correct. No oil in the valley, dipstick is ok, Replaced o rings between block and pedestal and pedestal to turbo. I have not re sealed the rear plate but I am going to. As far as the rear main goes, should I get that from ford or where? What kind of special tools go with it?

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Garbage_Mechanic · Apr 11, 2014

OK now you are just about where I was when I found my leak, even though mine was smaller. BEFORE you take anything else apart pressurize up the crankcase to 5 psi with air and use soapy water. The only thing this won't find is something like an oil galley plug leaking that leaks pressurized oil.

On installing the rear main seal: Use a seal "package" from Ford or IH. No aftermarket. The seal blots on no issue there, but the wear ring that goes on the crank is tricky. It has to be pressed on straight. I used the center out of an old Dual Mass flywheel and some longer (Metric) bolts to do two of them now, many miles on each no leaks. No hammers allowed to install the ring! To get the old ring off, use a small hammer and "peen" it all the way around to break the locktite and then use a "rolling head" "ladys foot" type bar to pull it off evenly NO BURRS or dings in the crank surface.

Good luck!

sniper_101 · Apr 11, 2014

Rear camshaft block-plug? EBPV on pedestal? Valve cover? Doghouse leak?

Garbage_Mechanic · Apr 11, 2014

No rear cam plug on 7.3 PSD, covered by the rear block plate. All others good questions though!

sniper_101 · Apr 11, 2014

Garbage_Mechanic said:
No rear cam plug on 7.3 PSD, covered by the rear block plate. All others good questions though!

I wondered. Even tried finding & googling rear block pics before I made the suggestion.

Now I know! lol

Garbage_Mechanic · Apr 11, 2014

I wouldn't have known for sure if I hadn't just R&R'd one in the past few months.

sniper_101 · Apr 11, 2014

For the amount of times I've had my trans out I should have known myself!

fordornothing · Apr 11, 2014

EBPV is greasy but definitely not wet. Correct me if I'm wrong but the only time oil is in there is when the valve is closed right?

On the wear ring, if you do get a bur on the crank, is that detrimental or can you smooth it out with some Emory cloth? Since I don't have a flywheel center, I can make up a plate that bolts to the crank. Does there need to be a shoulder on it to push the sleeve on past flush? If so how much?

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fordornothing · Apr 11, 2014

Doghouse is good. Valve covers could use new gaskets but they aren't leaking there. As far as I can tell it's all the the back of the engine.

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sniper_101 · Apr 11, 2014

fordornothing said:
EBPV is greasy but definitely not wet. Correct me if I'm wrong but the only time oil is in there is when the valve is closed right?

When my EBPV rod seal gave it was leaking a second after start, sooner than I would normally have the EBPV close. But it leaked enough to have a steady stream running down the back of my block to the point I was worried about clutch contamination. Although it filled the back 3/4 of my valley with oil.

When my doghouse o-rings weren't quite seated right when I put the unit back on it produced a surprising amount of oil down the back of the valve cover that ran down the back of the head and down the block. Hence why I mentioned, is all.

I would take a good hard look at that EBPV unit. Mine was oily looking before it crapped out, and looked the same after it started pissing oil. Visually I wouldn't have suspected it was leaking as much oil as it actually was.

Best of luck finding your leak!

gnxtc2 · Apr 11, 2014

Check the turbo seal. I thought it was pedestal orings but the oil was leaking between the center journal and exhaust housing. Something to check.

Billy T.
[email protected]

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Garbage_Mechanic · Apr 11, 2014

On the wear ring, yes you can use a self made plate with about 4 holes in it. Just watch the bolt lenghts so you don't pull threads or bottom out and cause damage. The ring goes flush with the flywheel mounting surface. On the burrs on the wear ring surface, emery or a whetstone to be sure the burrs are flush or below the surface. dings and scratches will fill with sealant, burrs will cause the ring to be out of round and hold it up to allow oil to go between it and crank.

fordornothing said:
EBPV is greasy but definitely not wet. Correct me if I'm wrong but the only time oil is in there is when the valve is closed right?

On the wear ring, if you do get a bur on the crank, is that detrimental or can you smooth it out with some Emory cloth? Since I don't have a flywheel center, I can make up a plate that bolts to the crank. Does there need to be a shoulder on it to push the sleeve on past flush? If so how much?

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CTFFEMT · Apr 11, 2014

Garbage_Mechanic said:
On installing the rear main seal: Use a seal "package" from Ford or IH. No aftermarket. The seal blots on no issue there, but the wear ring that goes on the crank is tricky. It has to be pressed on straight. I used the center out of an old Dual Mass flywheel and some longer (Metric) bolts to do two of them now, many miles on each no leaks. No hammers allowed to install the ring! To get the old ring off, use a small hammer and "peen" it all the way around to break the locktite and then use a "rolling head" "ladys foot" type bar to pull it off evenly NO BURRS or dings in the crank surface.

fordornothing said:
On the wear ring, if you do get a bur on the crank, is that detrimental or can you smooth it out with some Emory cloth? Since I don't have a flywheel center, I can make up a plate that bolts to the crank. Does there need to be a shoulder on it to push the sleeve on past flush? If so how much?

Garbage_Mechanic said:
On the wear ring, yes you can use a self made plate with about 4 holes in it. Just watch the bolt lenghts so you don't pull threads or bottom out and cause damage. The ring goes flush with the flywheel mounting surface. On the burrs on the wear ring surface, emery or a whetstone to be sure the burrs are flush or below the surface. dings and scratches will fill with sealant, burrs will cause the ring to be out of round and hold it up to allow oil to go between it and crank.

This brings my nightmares back... first time I've ever admitted this... I fear this might stick with me on the forum. lol

CAUTION ADVISED... my STOCK (2000 yr truck) rear main seal had NO WEAR RING on the crank. The IH or Ford replacement SHOULD have a wear ring. When replacing my rear main I was starring at the thing for about an hour because it appeared to have a ring. I called 3 SEPARATE mechanics who regularly work on 7.3's and all told me to take a chisel and hammer, whack the stock wear ring off by hitting it in 3 separate spots to loosen it....

I mustered up the courage and got to hammering away....

gouged the s*** out of my crank. No wear ring. Once I realized there was no wear ring and seeing what I had done, I almost puked on spot. A trip to the machine shop, welding and lathing the crank back down, I was back in business. Couple hundred dollar lesson for me.

I now have the nickname of "chisel" at the shop.

So... if you replace it, ensure you do or do not have a wear ring. I don't know if it was a year specific thing or what because I never wanted to think about it again. Who knows...maybe mine was a freak without a ring.

I had the rear main tool at my disposal so I did use that to put the new ring on. I did not have the bolt to pull it on however. I did use a hammer and lightly tapped the center of the tool until the ef'in wear ring was on. I did coat the inside of the wear ring with i think loctite 638 or so. It was a loctite for cylindrical applications.

I unfortunately have pics of my mistake if needed although I'd hate to publicly humiliate myself haha