One Up Off Road Traction bars.

dimon42

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Thanks for the info Wayne. Looks like Firestone's Ride Rite #2550 is the way to go for my situation. 2550 replaced 2330. I've been reading another thread with a GREAT writeup of the 2330. And your input that the strength is no question has me much more confident!!

I'm super stoked to get my OUO bars and get my air system all dialed in so I'm not dragging a$$ towing our new fifth wheel!!
 

dimon42

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For anyone following this thread or searching in the future, I just wanted to followup that this is a KILLER setup. I found all the info online with a lot of reading and researching, so if I can return the favor by helping out even one person, I feel that I've contributed to the online community!!

The One Up Offroad adaptable traction bar system with integrated block is super solid. ZERO axle wrap. Great fit and finish, and owner Dave is very helpful and supportive...more than happy to help ensure you end up with a good install.

The inboard bags (Ride Rite kit #2550) mounted up great to the One Up Offroad jounce plate which becomes your lower airbag mount (you don't use the lower mounts from the Ride Rite kit). The One Up Offroad jounce/air bag plate is super beefy. I have utmost confidence in this setup towing my fifth wheel.

I came up with a nice method to get the bags perfectly aligned where they wanted to sit naturally. Get the truck on level ground, and all "normalized". Mount the upper Ride-Rite mount. Mock bag in place to upper mount. Draw line around bottom round plate of bag. Cut a circular template to same OD as that part of airbag. Mark exact center of template and punch small hole for later. Put template on top of plate, aligning with the circle you drew on plate earlier. Using a hammer and punch, mark the top plate where you'll drill the lower air bag hole (a 90 degree drill will come in handy). Do the same on the other side, except in my case, I wanted to ensure the bags looked even, so although my center point came out about 1/8" different, I went ahead and took measurements from where the center hole was on the first plate and matched to right side. I could have been 1/8" off on my template placement. But I did want to at least sanity check that it was basically the same before just assuming I could transfer the measurements from the first one to the second one (with the though that it would be more important to let the bag landed where it wanted to vs. force it to be offset). The truck seems to be very symmetrical from one side to the other. So I ignored the template center and just matched the other plate, and so ended up with the same reveal on the bag placement side-to-side and front-to back, if that makes sense.

I will say you need to be pretty competent to get this installed yourself, and have plenty of tools (a 1 5/16" impact is required for the front giant bolt of the traction bar). An extra hand would certainly help. Luckily my wife is a rad chick and helped me out where needed, mainly during the insertion of the new block. Be very careful when separating the truck/leaf from the top of the stock block(s). Things get real in a hurry when your truck has 8+ inches of gap between the bottom of the leaf spring and the top of the axle. I did this all in my driveway, and at first I couldn't safely get enough lift with a jack since the truck is so tall. I ended up chain-strapping the leaf to the frame so that when I lifted from the rear stock hitch, it would lift off more immediately without just drooping out. This proved to be very stable, but still obviously don't be an idiot and get your hand ANYWHERE in between. Tricky when you're trying to wrangle the One Up Offroad block in there!!

I was able to bend the stock e-brake cable mounts into new positions and grab a hole that was in the One Up Offroad block, making for a factory install.

Note that you see my Kelderman rear 2-stage air bag system. With the standard air helper springs installed, I can leave my Kelderman system at a nominal pressure as it doesn't need to be engaged to lift the truck anymore to compensate for the weight. The inboard Rite-Rite air helper springs are doing all the work, leaving the Kelderman to simply function as a bit of a cushioned buffer on hard edged bumps (freeway sections, speed bumps, etc.), which is why I bought it to begin with. It just can't compensate for 3,000 lbs of pin box weight on its own.
 

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dimon42

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More pictures
 

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dimon42

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More, more pictures.
 

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dimon42

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Last round of pictures...
 

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dimon42

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I realize this is an old thread, but I finally got around to compiling a before and after video comparison. Details of the project re-summarized below and in the YouTube description. I relied on the forums and input to help me decide on this path, so if this makes it easier for even one person, then it was worth it! I want to give back to the community that helped me!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HX7nOY4SV64&feature=youtu.be

Truck info: 2002 Ford F-350 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel, 4x4, crew cab, long bed, 8” lift on 37” BFG mud terrains

I wanted to put together a good before and after comparison of axle-wrap on my lifted truck in the hopes that it might help someone who is struggling with the same issue. I did a TON of reading before moving forward with the One Up Offroad (OUO) traction block system. Owner David Hoppert was very helpful.

I installed the kit in October 2014. I routinely tow a 20,000lb fifth wheel trailer, and the One Up Offroad system combined with new inboard-mounted Ride-Rite p/n 2550 air bags and existing Kelderman 2-Stage Rear Air Suspension is working flawlessly (now April 2015). The Kelderman system takes the “chop” out of the ride on freeways while the OUO system completely eliminates the axle wrap. The Ride-Rite air bags allow the truck to take the heavy pinbox weight of the 40ft toyhauler trailer without straining the leaf springs. The OUO block has a heavy gauge “landing pad” to make use of an inboard style air bag kit so you don’t see the ugly hardware at the outboard side (I like a clean install).

Note that prior to the “Before” video (and the reason I had to revisit axle wrap to begin with), I had a stacked lift-block setup with home-brew traction bars. This worked well to eliminate the axle wrap, but that was before towing so heavy. My garage design proved to not be durable enough, and the torque ultimately fatigued my ill-designed front mounts and broke them off (one completely, one was cracked and ready to come off).

Before: Kelderman 2-Stage Rear Air Suspension, stock F-350 spacer block (3.5”) and aftermarket tapered lift block (3.25” – 3” in front, 3.5” in back), for total centerline lift block of 6.75”. No traction bar at this time (see above note regarding their demise). Note that I do not know if the Kelderman system induces additional axle-wrap in a lifted application without some kind of traction bar solution – it does seem to be pretty extreme. It would seem reasonable that the air bag lets things “float” unrestrained a bit more. Also note that I wasn’t really pushing it hard, because the amount of wrap was really worrying me and I didn’t want to break anything.

After: Kelderman 2-Stage Rear Air Suspension, One Up Offroad traction block setup with 8” blocks (so, about 1”+ more lift height – I was running a little low in the rear before). Height is measured at the centerline.

Sorry for the shakey mounting in the Before videos. Found a much more solid mount for the After!

As you can see, there is virtually NO rotation of the pumpkin/driveshaft (axle wrap) with the OUO traction block system, even when doing a power-braked start.

As far as I’m concerned, this is THE setup for this application. Save yourself time, frustration, and ultimately money by doing it right the first time.

Prices at the time I did this project:

- Ride-Rite p/n 2550: $311 on Amazon Prime
- One Up Offroad Traction Block system with 8” blocks: $1,565 shipped
- Kelderman 2-Stage Rear Air Suspension: I don’t remember. I would consider this optional anyway.
 

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