lincolnlocker
Well-known member
i just want to say that besides dereeting my 6.7, that this setup i ordered from jared are hands down the best thing i have ever done to a truck! any truck!! i wish I would have done this when i bought the truck off the lot... my shifts are solid and firm, no sloppy slinky feeling, my braking has even inproved a ton, and it took about 50% of the infamous 40-45mph hop away!!!
the bars are stout and made well, the cast parts are heavy but also weldable if not wanting to drill the frame.. i really thought of doing that as i jave a bum shoulder but looks and functions amazingly well..
only complaint i have are the instructions that came with it.. lots of parts and skipping around a lil made it confusing.. i knownitnis prolly easier to just throw the hole lot in together but there should be directions for each specific set of bars and bolt on kits. i think what took me the longest was reading and re reading and finding torque specs and the order that it was needed to be done and the step by step on what way to put it together.. once you find each part then its ok as long as you dont put them down and let the wond blow them around.. lol.. did that once.. maybe a list of what is needed for install too.. i didnt know i needed a 5/8 hole in the one side of the bar till i was to that point(yes i should have read all instructions first but i was impatient)and i wouldnt have had that bit if i wasnt doing this at work with the mechanics rig that i have stocked with most everything i needed except a nag drill.. lol
drilling sucks.. as i just drilled pilot holes big enough to start a reamer bit and slowly worked them open to just shynof 3/8s and then finished/squared them off with a step bit.. it took so luch less effort to do it that way and not doing a pilot hole then jumping to a 3/8s bit or inwould have needed to stop a quarter of the way through and paid someone to do it for me due to my shoulder.. but anyway, a mag drill or lots of good drill bits would be needed if you didnt do it my way.. i used two 1/4 drill bits(now junk) one 1/2 inch reamer bit(still like new) and a step bit(still ok but not newish anymore) to drill the holes in the frame.. the directions say a minimum of 8 inches of overlap in the tubes is required. so as most know, the longer the bars are, the better the ride is and betternfor towing.. so i marked the inner bars at 8 inches from the end. lined that mark up with the pilot holes on the outer bar so that puts them at close to 9 inches of overlap then set the bolt on frame mount on the end without the bushing and used that as my guide for the distance of mounting on the frame. it worked out to be 3 and 3/4 inces from the body mount.. after it is put together with the bushings installed and tight, that puts about 10 inches of overlap in the tube so i should be good to go there.. it is tedious job but all in all its more time consuming then it is hard to install.. the small bolts for the frame being small only required 18ft lbs which seems super low and they still spun on the washers when not backed up with a wrench but hey, what do i know.. i ended up haveing to go back through and torque each nut on the fram mounts 3 times though cuz it kept tighting more as it went so i kust have got a couple holes not lined up propper but to get them all to 18ish ftlbs of torque and even, that is what i had to do on each side.. so with that said!
absolutely love them!!!
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
the bars are stout and made well, the cast parts are heavy but also weldable if not wanting to drill the frame.. i really thought of doing that as i jave a bum shoulder but looks and functions amazingly well..
only complaint i have are the instructions that came with it.. lots of parts and skipping around a lil made it confusing.. i knownitnis prolly easier to just throw the hole lot in together but there should be directions for each specific set of bars and bolt on kits. i think what took me the longest was reading and re reading and finding torque specs and the order that it was needed to be done and the step by step on what way to put it together.. once you find each part then its ok as long as you dont put them down and let the wond blow them around.. lol.. did that once.. maybe a list of what is needed for install too.. i didnt know i needed a 5/8 hole in the one side of the bar till i was to that point(yes i should have read all instructions first but i was impatient)and i wouldnt have had that bit if i wasnt doing this at work with the mechanics rig that i have stocked with most everything i needed except a nag drill.. lol
drilling sucks.. as i just drilled pilot holes big enough to start a reamer bit and slowly worked them open to just shynof 3/8s and then finished/squared them off with a step bit.. it took so luch less effort to do it that way and not doing a pilot hole then jumping to a 3/8s bit or inwould have needed to stop a quarter of the way through and paid someone to do it for me due to my shoulder.. but anyway, a mag drill or lots of good drill bits would be needed if you didnt do it my way.. i used two 1/4 drill bits(now junk) one 1/2 inch reamer bit(still like new) and a step bit(still ok but not newish anymore) to drill the holes in the frame.. the directions say a minimum of 8 inches of overlap in the tubes is required. so as most know, the longer the bars are, the better the ride is and betternfor towing.. so i marked the inner bars at 8 inches from the end. lined that mark up with the pilot holes on the outer bar so that puts them at close to 9 inches of overlap then set the bolt on frame mount on the end without the bushing and used that as my guide for the distance of mounting on the frame. it worked out to be 3 and 3/4 inces from the body mount.. after it is put together with the bushings installed and tight, that puts about 10 inches of overlap in the tube so i should be good to go there.. it is tedious job but all in all its more time consuming then it is hard to install.. the small bolts for the frame being small only required 18ft lbs which seems super low and they still spun on the washers when not backed up with a wrench but hey, what do i know.. i ended up haveing to go back through and torque each nut on the fram mounts 3 times though cuz it kept tighting more as it went so i kust have got a couple holes not lined up propper but to get them all to 18ish ftlbs of torque and even, that is what i had to do on each side.. so with that said!
absolutely love them!!!
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
