02BigD
New member
Awesome!
PCM swap and I am still stumped Grrr!!
- Thread starter TARM
- Start date
Yes I agree. This had really nothing to do with Matt or Larz. In all fairness Matt is friend. But still when I called him a few days ago and told him my situation and that I did not want to risk the old chip possibly frying my new PCM and that I needed it quickly, I expected a chip in a 3-4 days maybe a week by the time it got here. I get a message the next morning that I will have it that afternoon. What makes this even more significant is Matt and Larz are neck deep in filling orders and tuning etc. He was going to be up to the wee hours as he had a ton of tunes to get burned. Yet still he found time to package up a chip and get it out to me within a couple hours from when I dropped him the message.
So not only that but then they end up monitoring how my situation is going and jump in when they see I am stuck. Come on what more could a person ask for!?!
So not only that but then they end up monitoring how my situation is going and jump in when they see I am stuck. Come on what more could a person ask for!?!
Hotrodtractor
Moderator
I haven't delt with Larz - but Matt has always treated me very well.
I'm glad to hear that you got it up and going.
I'm glad to hear that you got it up and going.
Thanks guys
OK got the PCM and chip back in. Everything fired up and running. Something so basic I could kick myself for not catching this right off the bat.
Weird thing at least for me is I do not have a a CEL light??? I know I should be happy and I am but I thought for sure running a SD PCM with a X engine top wiring harness meant for GPCM and having the entire glow plug harness disconnected would trip a hard code.
I wonder if it has something to do with the tune? When I had pulled the chip I had a CEL but when I cleared it and put the chip in and started it back up no CEL. I am sure I have some codes but would have thought that would be a hard code to trip the CEL
Sure is nice to see a clear dash console. No flashing Security light or a check engine. Seems so dark like somethings missing.
Took it for a 20 min drive on local roads. A few half throttle runs just to clear its throat out a bit. Idle is not perfect but what can I say for not being started and run for a 13 months. Now time to start doing some basic maintenance and then getting the last few upgrades done.
First I need to finish up and get the SD harness that got here in and the GPR etc in.
Need to get the rest of the IsoPro-Performax guages I want and going to a 4 pod pillar setup this time.
Need to get the water hooked up for the GTX42 turbo. Beware if you order a water kit for a turbo from Himni Racing they show two banjo fittings in the picture of the kit but you only get 1 fitting kit. The pic is to show you your choice of a -6an or barbed fitting to the banjo port. You need to order two of these or one and then a separate M18-1.5 x -6AN straight fitting and a push-loc -6an sweep 90° If you do not want two banjo. My fault for not reading carefully but when I see kit I think it would have in and out. Oh well.
OK got the PCM and chip back in. Everything fired up and running. Something so basic I could kick myself for not catching this right off the bat.
Weird thing at least for me is I do not have a a CEL light??? I know I should be happy and I am but I thought for sure running a SD PCM with a X engine top wiring harness meant for GPCM and having the entire glow plug harness disconnected would trip a hard code.
I wonder if it has something to do with the tune? When I had pulled the chip I had a CEL but when I cleared it and put the chip in and started it back up no CEL. I am sure I have some codes but would have thought that would be a hard code to trip the CEL
Sure is nice to see a clear dash console. No flashing Security light or a check engine. Seems so dark like somethings missing.
Took it for a 20 min drive on local roads. A few half throttle runs just to clear its throat out a bit. Idle is not perfect but what can I say for not being started and run for a 13 months. Now time to start doing some basic maintenance and then getting the last few upgrades done.
First I need to finish up and get the SD harness that got here in and the GPR etc in.
Need to get the rest of the IsoPro-Performax guages I want and going to a 4 pod pillar setup this time.
Need to get the water hooked up for the GTX42 turbo. Beware if you order a water kit for a turbo from Himni Racing they show two banjo fittings in the picture of the kit but you only get 1 fitting kit. The pic is to show you your choice of a -6an or barbed fitting to the banjo port. You need to order two of these or one and then a separate M18-1.5 x -6AN straight fitting and a push-loc -6an sweep 90° If you do not want two banjo. My fault for not reading carefully but when I see kit I think it would have in and out. Oh well.
Dmstrucks02
New member
Man that's got to be a good feeling to have it back on the road
Nice to have that vendor support as well, Matt and Larz are good dudes
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Nice to have that vendor support as well, Matt and Larz are good dudes
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
V-Ref
Active member
I ended up using the front pax head to feed the back of chra clocked at 15 degrees with the front port on the turbo as the return plumbed to the heater core supply port. In other words the gtx4294r is plumbed in series in between the front pax head and the inboard firewall port on heater core. I clocked the turbo 15 degrees so the front port was high, rear port low. I used a m16 ( I think) ORB to -8 pushlok. 90 fittin on the rear turbo straight on the front turbo port.
Thanks V-Ref,
Unfortunately that may not work for me. The X, as well as some of the later model SD's "I think", have a heater loop cut off valve. It's vacuum actived when you move climate control to max A/c setting. (Bob Riley sells one as well to help get that super cold air.) If you had it spliced in line (series) be it feed or retro hose of the heater core you would loose all flow. At least that is how I see it. One way around it is a bypass loop. T into heater core feed hose as turbo inlet and heater core outlet (post cut off valve) for the turbo return.
Ideally I would think getting good the coolest source of coolant for inlet and then return would be ideal. But what if anything would be gained. So likely not worth me over thinking it.
Unfortunately that may not work for me. The X, as well as some of the later model SD's "I think", have a heater loop cut off valve. It's vacuum actived when you move climate control to max A/c setting. (Bob Riley sells one as well to help get that super cold air.) If you had it spliced in line (series) be it feed or retro hose of the heater core you would loose all flow. At least that is how I see it. One way around it is a bypass loop. T into heater core feed hose as turbo inlet and heater core outlet (post cut off valve) for the turbo return.
Ideally I would think getting good the coolest source of coolant for inlet and then return would be ideal. But what if anything would be gained. So likely not worth me over thinking it.
