Por-15

MeTo · Jun 1, 2016

Not sure if this is the right forum?

Has anyone used Por-15? Did you use the metal prep first? Are you happy with the results? If not, do you have an alternative undercoating solution? Any info will be appreciated.

AirFishAutomotive · Jun 1, 2016

have not used it first hand but did have a customer (family friend) do it while we had there cab up and he did a little prep work by just knocking off anything that was hanging (rust chips.) Turned out extremely well and was almost a little rubbery feeling. I was impressed and would use it, our paint guy uses it a lot on restorations etc that he does. From what I was told there doesnt need to be any kind of prep work just knock down the big stuff and go with it.

btw this should be in general discussion forum

TyCorr · Jun 1, 2016

I was steered away from it by people who had used it and said the prep can be finicky. I used rust bullet on half the frame, then e primer, and vht rollbar and chassis gloss black. The other half I used kbs' 3 step system and it seems to be a foolproof system if you follow the instructions closely. They also include everything. Brushes, gloves, glasses, literature on how to's

freddie · Jun 1, 2016

I have used POR15 on a lot lately. I painted my "new" core support last year, front and rear axles, leaf springs, RSK, adjustable track bar, both new fuel tanks, fuel tank skid plates, fuel filler necks, etc.

I love it. Granted it makes installation of those parts take longer, but I feel the prep work to prevent rust is worth it.

On the core support, and axles, I had everything sandblasted then used the POR15 Metal Ready, following all of their directions before painting. On the RSK and other parts, I did not sandblast but instead stripped everything of grime or grease via Dawn soap, then used the POR15 Metal ready, then paint.

On the parts that would see moderate sun exposure (hubs, RSK,) I did top coat the POR15 with the POR15 Top Coat, which is UV resistant. Should prevent the paint turning purple, fading, and weakening.

dsberman94 · Jun 1, 2016

Be ready for yours to chip, there's threads about POR15 chipping when it's put on a smooth surface even when prepped with all of their materials. Best way to do it is the way air fish said. Knock off anything loose and run with it. If you're putting it on smooth metal, you need to rough it up more than sand blasting first. A grinder disc or something similar is actually what I've read works best to toughen the surface enough to get it to stick and stay the best.

zilla68 · Jun 1, 2016

i used kbs on my core support and it turned out great

freddie · Jun 1, 2016

dsberman94 said:
Be ready for yours to chip, there's threads about POR15 chipping when it's put on a smooth surface even when prepped with all of their materials. Best way to do it is the way air fish said. Knock off anything loose and run with it. If you're putting it on smooth metal, you need to rough it up more than sand blasting first. A grinder disc or something similar is actually what I've read works best to toughen the surface enough to get it to stick and stay the best.

Guess I'll see but the sand blast texture is super rough. I'd be more worried about the RSK and all the other new surfaces I painted

TyCorr · Jun 1, 2016

zilla68 said:
i used kbs on my core support and it turned out great

I did that and rust bullet. I think i like the kbs better.

MeTo · Jun 5, 2016

Thanks for your time. My "New Mexico" frame has a very thin layer of rust. I'm going to spray the metal prep on and keep wet for 30 minutes, let it dry for a day and brush two coats on. Then who ever gets it when my wife sells after I die can contend with it.

freddie · Jun 6, 2016

Sounds like a plan

Black AOD · Jun 6, 2016

Go check this thread out. Page 6....they did the frame in POR 15

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38772&page=6

sootie · Jun 9, 2016

dsberman94 said:
Be ready for yours to chip, there's threads about POR15 chipping when it's put on a smooth surface even when prepped with all of their materials. Best way to do it is the way air fish said. Knock off anything loose and run with it. If you're putting it on smooth metal, you need to rough it up more than sand blasting first. A grinder disc or something similar is actually what I've read works best to toughen the surface enough to get it to stick and stay the best.

Have you not touched something fresh from sandblast in your life? at least, if not more rougher than when you grind something, and looks a heck or a lot better as it is uniform.

freddie · Jun 9, 2016

sootie said:
Have you not touched something fresh from sandblast in your life? at least, if not more rougher than when you grind something, and looks a heck or a lot better as it is uniform.

I was sort of thinking that. I figured maybe he had experience with a different blasting media.. but everything I have had sandblasted had a surface finish rougher than 80 grit. Plenty of texture for the POR to grip.

TyCorr · Jun 9, 2016

freddie said:
I was sort of thinking that. I figured maybe he had experience with a different blasting media.. but everything I have had sandblasted had a surface finish rougher than 80 grit. Plenty of texture for the POR to grip.

Yea exactly. Thats the only reason that cheap, shtty red primer sticks.

Aside from that por will stick if you buy the metal blast spray they offer which converts rust, etches bare shiny surfaces, and leaves a zinc primer.

jsnyder7.3 · Jul 11, 2016

I'm about to embark on this journey and will be starting from a bare metal sandblasted frame. I was going to start a new thread and happened onto this one. What are the opinions of using POR or Chassis saver vs just priming and spraying a couple coats of equipment enamel? I don't want to spend the $ if it isn't justified. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

sootie · Jul 12, 2016

if it is bare, sandblasted and with no accessories, i would get it powdercoated.

TyCorr · Jul 13, 2016

If you are going down this road and dont want to use powdercoat which cant be touched up if you chip it during assembly, there is better **** than por15. Its about aa goid as rustoleum in comparison to products like rust mort, rustbullet, and especially kbs coatings. I did my frame in halves. The rear section in rustbullet. The front half in kbs and the kbs was easier, looks better, and i have wat more confidence in. They also have better support products. They sell everything from prep stuff to paints you can put over the epoxy coats and even clearcoat and paint you can spray to finish your jobs.

If you are a diy'er and need to fix your pinch welds or inside edge of your door bottoms they sell kits that have what you need. They even include respirators, gloves, pourspouts, stir sticks, and thinners.

jsnyder7.3 · Jul 18, 2016

Soothe , I honestly hadn't thought about powder coat. It may be cost prohibitive but I'll certainly check into it.

Typically thanks for the additional info. I have been reading up on KBS and it seems to be the deal.

Skill_Kills · Jul 18, 2016

Id do chassis saver and then some good paint. ive done it on 2 of my frames and a fish house frame and its working very well and didnt break the bank at all

Vader's Fury · Jul 18, 2016

I am looking to paint the bottom of my cab when I have it off the frame later this month. Would the KBS work for that? Was looking at the web site and it looks like it would.

Just starting to get a little rust in a few places and want to handle it before it gets out of control.

With the winters here in MD, if i don't handle it soon, there will not be much left to save LOL