Lt.Dan
Member
Hmm, i just might have to do that, if it all works out, it will make the install much, much easier.
Possible cracked block?
- Thread starter Lt.Dan
- Start date
dsberman94
Well-known member
Just check it before you go unbolting everything. Make sure there looks like there's enough rubber hose to let you do it. I don't want to see you end up SOL because of me.
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Lt.Dan
Member
Hahaha, thank you bud, ill be sure to double check. Would hate to loose A/C right in the middle of summer! Even just having to get it recharged would be unnecessary if i can avoid it.
Lt.Dan
Member
Just found out the injectors he ordered me were brand new AB replacements, and are $300 at his cost!!! So i dont think im spending $900 for 3 injectors when i can look at all 8 stage 1s for $1200... He said he can send them back no problem, i just have to let him know.
Im leaning towards Rosewoods AB Stage 2's for the shear fact that they are still AB injectors and i wont have to do any special tuning (as that is what I think caused my problem in the past was incorrect custom tuning.
Does anybody else make a drop in injector that i wont have to have tuning for? Seems all the other companies dont even recognize the AB injector that came in 96-97 Cali models.
Im leaning towards Rosewoods AB Stage 2's for the shear fact that they are still AB injectors and i wont have to do any special tuning (as that is what I think caused my problem in the past was incorrect custom tuning.
Does anybody else make a drop in injector that i wont have to have tuning for? Seems all the other companies dont even recognize the AB injector that came in 96-97 Cali models.
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The only thing typically done to a split shot injector is a slightly larger nozzle. Stroking them would add more fuel to the pilot shot. Split shot injectors do not make great performance injectors. A single shot injector will use less hpo and are typically more effecient. Why not get stage 1s. A basic tune to run the stage 1s is not going to cost that much more. Most typically see fuel economy improvements going to a single shot and if it is the case you will save in fuel costs over the long run...
The only drop in replacement for an AB would be an AD . Both are 7 hole split shots AB=120cc AD=140cc
The only drop in replacement for an AB would be an AD . Both are 7 hole split shots AB=120cc AD=140cc
Lt.Dan
Member
Are the AC drop in ready? Or will they need tuning?
Even if i go to single shots (or AA code im guessing is what they start out as?) Then I wont be able to send mine in as a core? As typically if i build single shots, arent i required to send in single shots?
Im going to call Rosewood and RiffRaff tomorrow and explore my options too....
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Lt.Dan
Member
Ended up just buying reman FFD AB injectors. $130 a piece wasnt bad. They should be here Friday. Wish i had the cash to do AC codes or Stage 1 single shots...
Lt.Dan
Member
Did get some more work done on her today too, got the heater hoses removed and measured out. Going to purchase 14ft of 5/8" heater hose to replace it all.
Got some more of the wiring harness cleaned up. In my spare time at work, ive been stripping the entire engine harness and cleaning all of the 20 yr old oil on it, and putting on new split loom and taping it all up.
Got some more of the wiring harness cleaned up. In my spare time at work, ive been stripping the entire engine harness and cleaning all of the 20 yr old oil on it, and putting on new split loom and taping it all up.
Lt.Dan
Member
I saw on another thread that Rosewood Diesel makes a heater hose holder for the OBS trucks because the stock bracket bends all the time. So after going out and checking mine, sure enough, it was bent and had fallen over. So i straightened it out and i was going to add a gusset to it so it wont happen again. But then i just decided to make one out of some material we had laying around the shop. So now i have a super stout Heater hose bolder that i made myself. Made it up with some scrap tubing and a tab that we use often here in the shop. TIG welded it all up and its ready! I think ill get it powdercoated too.... (it looks funny in the pictures because its wet, i had just dunked it in water to cool it off.)
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Lt.Dan
Member
Just talked with the shop that has my motor. I guess an accident happened when they moved the motor about 6 weeks ago. The motor fell over on the ground and cracked the oil cooler housing.... The employee didnt notify the boss until today that it was cracked, so they have it coming to replace it. So installation of the motor has been delayed yet again...
Picked up 15 feet of 5/8" heater hose, 5 gallons of Rotella T, and 4 Gallons of Fleetcharge pre-mix (even though now i know i need 8 gallons to fill the system, so i need to go buy more...).
Picked up 15 feet of 5/8" heater hose, 5 gallons of Rotella T, and 4 Gallons of Fleetcharge pre-mix (even though now i know i need 8 gallons to fill the system, so i need to go buy more...).
Lt.Dan
Member
Just got word that they inspected the bottom end. Most of the bearings are down to the brass.... Greeeaaaat... More $$$ into the pit lol.
Lt.Dan
Member
Went down to the shop today, all the parts came in this morning, and its estimated to be finished tomorrow! Motor install going down this weekend!
Lt.Dan
Member
Well the install was delayed once again, they got the motor all back together, new bearings in the entire bottom end, oil pan resealed, heads on, front cover on. So they decided to do a leak down test to ensure everything was good. (They couldn't do it before because my dumba$$ pulled the heads before testing them). And the results werent great. The best cylinder only had 4% of leakdown, and the worst had 56% leakdown... So she needs rings...
Well now im in a little predicament, and i cant decide what to do, but i have 4 options right now.
1) I order a piston kit from Swamps Diesel and take it to the shop and have them install them, includes 8 Mahle pistons with pins, retainers, and rings. ($750).
2) The shop orders a piston kit with the same thing. ($140 per piston, total $1120).
3) I order a full overhaul kit, which includes the piston kit, and MUCH more stuff. (But i already have a lot of the kit, new bearings in the bottom end, most of the gaskets/seals, all new glow plugs etc. But for a few hundred bucks more, i get a new water pump, oil cooler, cam bearings, low pressure oil pump, and even an oil filter.) ($1250).
4) The shop orders the same overhaul kit from one of their vendors. ($1500)
Im really leaning towards #1. The shop already has an overhaul kit coming, they ordered it this morning, but he can send it back, no big deal. #2 seems like a joke to me. But #3 isnt a really bad idea. But again, i go back, im still trying to save money on this rebuild. IF i go #4 route, im going to be a total of almost $4500 total into this... Granted i did buy/redo a lot more than i needed to.
What do you guys think?
Well now im in a little predicament, and i cant decide what to do, but i have 4 options right now.
1) I order a piston kit from Swamps Diesel and take it to the shop and have them install them, includes 8 Mahle pistons with pins, retainers, and rings. ($750).
2) The shop orders a piston kit with the same thing. ($140 per piston, total $1120).
3) I order a full overhaul kit, which includes the piston kit, and MUCH more stuff. (But i already have a lot of the kit, new bearings in the bottom end, most of the gaskets/seals, all new glow plugs etc. But for a few hundred bucks more, i get a new water pump, oil cooler, cam bearings, low pressure oil pump, and even an oil filter.) ($1250).
4) The shop orders the same overhaul kit from one of their vendors. ($1500)
Im really leaning towards #1. The shop already has an overhaul kit coming, they ordered it this morning, but he can send it back, no big deal. #2 seems like a joke to me. But #3 isnt a really bad idea. But again, i go back, im still trying to save money on this rebuild. IF i go #4 route, im going to be a total of almost $4500 total into this... Granted i did buy/redo a lot more than i needed to.
What do you guys think?
As I said before in this thread. You would have already been better off buying a good tested used engine which can sometimes be had for as little as 500$ dropped it in and rock on. If you not building an engine for big power there's no reason to not just drop a good engine in. Already sounds like your dealing with an incompetent shop to begin with. They dropped your engine and you still want them rebuilding it. I would have collected my parts and never went back. A lot of wrecking yards will give you a 60-90 day etc warranty. I have never had an engine rebuilt it was always cheaper and easier to track down a good replacement and roll on. Your engine block has 350k miles and sometimes do crack and now it's been dropped hard I would be dropping it on a scrappers scale.
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Lt.Dan
Member
I completely agree with you, i wish that i just bought a good used motor, but i had hope that my motor was still in good shape (i was hopelessly wrong), ive been screwed around way to much, and i no longer would consider him a friend. But ive already got so much money tied up into THIS block, that throwing it away would be like just burning cash... I completely screwed myself and its getting worse. I just want my motor finished and back in the truck to be honest...
Hell at this point in time, i wish i would have just bought a reman short block for $3500 and put my parts on it...
Hell at this point in time, i wish i would have just bought a reman short block for $3500 and put my parts on it...
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Plzstrokeme
Member
I would vote option 3. You already have so much into it you might as well change the cam bearings and oil cooler plus a new water pump and lpop is never a bad idea. Hopefully it will be good for another 350,000 miles. Sorry to hear of all your problems. I hope it's all worth it in the end.
Not to rub it in but the engine currently in my truck is out of a 95 that I bought with an estimated 150,000 miles for $450. It had all the injectors, turbo, full underhood wiring harness, an alternator, an ac compressor, and even a spare cps. I did not know how well it would run though. Turns out it runs great with much less blowby than the original.
Not to rub it in but the engine currently in my truck is out of a 95 that I bought with an estimated 150,000 miles for $450. It had all the injectors, turbo, full underhood wiring harness, an alternator, an ac compressor, and even a spare cps. I did not know how well it would run though. Turns out it runs great with much less blowby than the original.
79jasper
Active member
Just watch what oil pump comes in the kit.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Lt.Dan
Member
So long as it comes with a Melling oil pump i should be okay right?
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