Possible cracked block?

Lt.Dan · Jun 4, 2016

Still havent heard from the machine shop, going to call them on Monday. Did some work on the truck today, didnt want to do that much, as it was 107* here in socal at 11am. So i just pulled the power steering pump, the manifolds, up pipes, and collector as one piece, and the downpipe. Now i just need to pull the starter, disconnect the fuel lines (which i bought the disconnect tool from Matco last week, nice billet aluminum piece), and unbolt it from the truck, and it should come right out.

A question i have now is, since i removed the ebpv valve from the truck, would i be able to plug up the ebpv tube that runs from the passenger side exh. manifold to the sensor? Basically i can get a threaded plug or even weld up the manifold and get rid of the entire tube/sensor and all. Or would this cause other problems that im unaware of?

I also got pics of the turbo fully assembled. I didnt make it quite as pretty as i could have, but i sent it through our steam cleaner/parts washer thing, so theres no oil/grease/grime on it atleast. Itll do for now.

79jasper · Jun 4, 2016

Everything I've found says you still need it.
But it kinda depends on who's tuning. Some take it out of the equation.

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Lt.Dan · Jun 4, 2016

So it will affect the tuning of the vehicle? Does the vehicle read parameters from that sensor to determine something? I thought it was strictly to activate the ebpv valve?

Lt.Dan · Jun 4, 2016

After further research, i guess it does adjust fuel tables based on exhaust back pressure, so it needs to read it. I guess ill just clean mine out and keep using it. Thanks jasper.

79jasper · Jun 4, 2016

Correct. It's hardly connected to ebpv function.

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Lt.Dan · Jun 5, 2016

Ok so i did some more research on my stock injectors/computer i have. In the first post of this thread i talked about how i got custom tunes made for my Hydra chip. Well the tuner gave me tunes for a AA injectors. http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/geninfo/pcmcodes.php3 tells me that my computer code, which is MIF6 DPC-202, is a California computer, made for AB injectors. Even when i pulled the injectors as well, they were stamped AB on them. So could this have caused my problem from the start? Bad tuning maybe damaged one of the injectors causing it to stick open?

Lt.Dan · Jun 5, 2016

Another update, i just ordered the rest of the parts that i will need. Head gaskets, all the radiator hoses, a new oil pressure sensor (mine is broken), both negative battery cables (also broken and very corroded), the dipstick repair kit from RiffRaff, and turbo outlet o-ring.

Ive been keeping track of what this build has been costing me so far, and to date its been $667 minus the cost of the machine shop as i havent been charged yet. Ive also gotten many many parts that i needed to replace that i havent mentioned, so id say im doing this pretty cost effectively.

They all should be here soon, im going to start getting up a little early in the morning before work (the truck is parked at my work), and wrenching on it as much as i can. Im getting ready to pull the motor out really soon!

Lt.Dan · Jun 6, 2016

So i am to the point of pulling the motor, i will pull it tomorrow and my buddy who owns the diesel shop is going to come pick it up. Getting the fuel lines apart was a pain in the a$$! i was so close to just cutting the hose and worrying about it later... but i finally got it after wrestling with it for almost an hour. Now all thats left is bell housing bolts, and motor mounts and it should come right out.

My buddy is going to reseal the oil pan, front cover, rear main seal, and repair the dipstick. Then also look into the bottom end and see if bearings are worn out. If the bottom end is still in good shape, then we slap the heads back on and call it a day! If its worn out, then im going to just pull the trigger and do a full rebuild. The machine shop finally gave me an answer that they will be starting to work on the heads tomorrow morning, and will keep me posted on the results.

After the motor is out, then im going to be trying to diagnose my gauges issue, clean/degrease/pressure wash everything, then paint my new bed and install it (mine is completely smashed on the passenger side), and depending on how much time i have, start fixing some little cosmetic stuff.

Also i went to clean out the EBP tube, and it was completely clogged, solid from end to end... Then after trying to clean it out with a few different things... it broke. Just a little force when trying to force a rod through it, and it broke. So now i have to order a new one....

joe d · Jun 7, 2016

While the motor is out beat the pinch weld on the firewall down and back in... You will thank yourself later rather then go why didnt i do that with the motor out.. Promise ask me how i know..

oke:

Lt.Dan · Jun 7, 2016

That is one of the plans! i really hacked it up when i put my down pipe in, so i want to fix it... lol

Lt.Dan · Jun 9, 2016

Got the motor out, came out a lot easier than i expected, didnt have to rotate the motor 90*, but i did have to tilt the front up a little bit to clear. Left the radiator fan on, and the entire AC system is still intact, just strapped up out of the way. Now the cleaning begins!

My buddy also picked up the motor today and is taking it to his shop. Going to clean it, amd do a leakdown test, if it comes out good, then hes going to pull the pan and check out the bearings, and if that comes out good, then hes going to reseal the oil pan, do the front cover, and rear main seal, and do the dipstick repair kit i bought from riffraff.

He also heard from the machine shop today, they said the heads are in perfect shape, no cracks whatsoever, and the surface was only .003", and they were debating on if they should even deck the surface! They decided since i was this far into it, i might as well, and its not very expensive. So they are machining tomorrow!

We also realized something once we pulled the motor out... The oil filter was still attached to the motor. Meaning it was still full of oil, and wasnt "contaminated" when i pulled the heads off and spilled coolant everywhere. So we are going to siphon what we can out of the filter and have an oil analysis done. Hopefully it can tell us if there is coolant in the oil, or fuel in the oil, or neither?

I also gave him all 8 injectors, hes going to get them tested, $40 an injector, and see how theyre holding up. It will tell me how old they are as well...

When i get the motor back, it should be pretty much assembled and ready to drop in, other than put the valve covers and turbo on, and fill it with oil. Oh and install it in the truck...

Im getting overly-excited about getting my truck back!

superpsd · Jun 9, 2016

One check you could have done on the injectors was pull the solenoids off and checked armature gap with feelers gauges. That would give you an idea of poppet valve wear. At 320 for testing I would have just ponied up a little more dough and bought rebuilt or new AC code injectors and then order a tune for your hydra.

Lt.Dan · Jun 9, 2016

The AC injectors seem to be going for $200+ a piece (from just the little research ive done, they might be cheaper elsewhere). But either way, im trying to keep cost down on this build, like i said, im only $667 into this whole thing so far. And i want to keep it under $1500 when all said and done. Doing new injectors is out of the question for me, unless required.

rusty1161 · Jun 10, 2016

Lt.Dan said:
The AC injectors seem to be going for $200+ a piece (from just the little research ive done, they might be cheaper elsewhere). But either way, im trying to keep cost down on this build, like i said, im only $667 into this whole thing so far. And i want to keep it under $1500 when all said and done. Doing new injectors is out of the question for me, unless required.

What about remanufactured/rebuilt? There are some quality builders out there.

Examples...........

Single shots-
http://shop.performanceinjectionsystems.com/160CC-30-TOW-MASTER-INJECTORS-PIS-73-160-30.htm

AB's-
http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/abcode.htm

Rusty

elrodalexander73 · Jun 10, 2016

A set of flowed 135cc from Full Force is like 1100 bucks.. Stupid not to put them in.. I mean half of all your engine performance depends on how well they actually work..

old man dave · Jun 16, 2016

Where do 135cc injectors come from? OBS California/E99 are 120 and late SDs are 140 stock. So, instead of using stock, they are shrinking them as a mod? Half of your performance comes from injectors? I think if the injectors are not working, then you have zero% performance.

DP-Tuner sells 160 with choice of nozzles on remans here:

https://www.dp-tuner.com/ford-powerstroke/ford-powerstroke-7-3l/73-injectors/full-force-injectors-1/reman-injectors.html

They also sell injectors on new bodies.

Lt.Dan · Jun 16, 2016

Damn... got me wishing i had some extra cash stashed under the mattress! I even went and checked! haha

Lt.Dan · Jun 19, 2016

I just got some more parts in the mail, and didnt think about it while ordering, but i got both Fel-Pro head gaskets and head bolts, instead of the factory Motorcraft ones. Has anyone had any problem with the felpro gaskets and bolts? I got them for a screaming deal and didnt even think twice.