powertrax or true trac

blk350on20s

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Which one would you guys do? I like the ease and price of the powertrax but am unsure if it can handle the power like the true trac can. I dont want to pay to have the true trac put in because of the expense but realize sometimes its just gotta be done. Is there a way to just swap the ring gear and bearings and be ok? I dont know how to set gears all that well. Thanks. Ryan
 

bigrpowr

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I just did true trac front and rear, I've had a true trac in the rear before and it worked flawlessly.
 

lincolnlocker

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trutrac and have it put in... love mine....

bigr, how well does your truck turn with one in the front when locked in? or is more for the point and shoot method with the occasional turn?
 

PsRumors

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The TruTrac in the front has worked wonderfully and never had a problem turning. If/when the factory LS goes out a trutrac will go in the rear. I looked at the powertrax and everyone said it would hold up fine in the front but it isn't rated for even the power of an OBS. It will be worth the money in the long run.

To change the carrier will require a bearing press. If you don't know what your doing I would take it to someone who does.
 

blk350on20s

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Damn. Lol. I was hoping not to see that although i knew it was comin. Whats an instal of those run? I dont think i can do a powertrax anyway because i have the factory l/s
 

PsRumors

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When I had my TruTrac installed in the D60 I was regearing as well. It was $250 labor and me supplying all the parts. I would expect just the TruTrac install to be less.
 

Charles

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If you look at Yukon's site, they used to have a really good write-up on R&P installation.

If everything's good, then you don't need anything but the carrier, oil and some rtv. If you've got a Mag-hytec or similar cover you don't even need the rtv.

Pull the cover, remove the caps, pry it out, swap the ring gear and bearings over to the new carrier, stuff it back in and adjust shims from left to right to handle the backlash.

You would need a shop press and knife to handle the bearings and a dial indicator and magnetic base to handle the backlash readings. Throw in a torque wrench for the ring gear bolts.


If that sounds crazy, hire someone. If not, knock it out.
 

blk350on20s

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Backlash would be my only issue as i do not have the dial indicator. Ill see what a shop charges first i guess
 

Erikclaw

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Go tru track, had them front and rear for a while and no problems at all. Turning isn't an issue.
 

lincolnlocker

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mine was 650$ parts and labor... well closer to 750 with the amsoil i had put in... had a performance axle shop do it for me.. rock solid performance out of ceder springs.. good guys to... have all sorts of cool rock crawlers there.
 

alwil

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^ That includes the tru track?

$600 was just for the install and shop supplies, the unit itself cost $850 due to me being in Canada.
So that's $1500, not too bad a price for a good diff

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
 

Shootingstar

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I just had a true track put in mine under warranty. The ticket was @1850 with some new bearings and seals. My cost $50 that aftermarket warranty just paid for its self
 

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