Project "Second Strike" RCSB 6.4 - RELOADED

devdiesel · May 9, 2015

I went to 3.55's, I ran the gear ratios unless you plan on doing something like 150mph in the 1/4 mile lol.. 55's are the best of both worlds... Looks like a solid other than your rolling the dice with stock Pistons. And unless your dead set on a FASS I would look at a fuelab instead

HOOV3R · May 9, 2015

BilletGarage said:
This is good info. Thank you! Been following your build and getting inspiration. It looks killer!

I have been rolling combos around in my head for weeks and resisting big fuel mods. I really want this truck to stay clean burning above all else. As smoke free as possible. However, I don't want to needlessly leave power potential on the table, even if I choose not to use it every day. If I can dial back larger injectors with tuning for the street, but have enough fuel to let it eat at the track (with some spray), that would be ideal. And the more I read, and you guys chime in, the more this seems doable.

So, what do you guys think of this combo for that goal:

75/59 Compounds

Wastegate

Dual Fuelers

60% Nozzles

Tank Sump

FASS 220 LPFP

Fuel Bowl Delete

Ported Intake

Ported Fuel Rails (if it will matter)

6.0 or BD Manifolds/UpPipes

Valve Springs

Pushrods

ARP Studs

Stock Bottom End

Stock Heads

Built Trans

The truck will be light and 2wd so I don't see it being as hard on transmissions as heavier 4wd trucks at a similar power level. Stickier tires will obviously tax it a bit more.

Was also thinking of re-gearing the truck from 3.73's down to 3.31's from the older 10.25 rear ends. Anyone done this? Any down side in the strength department?

Thoughts overall?

Don't do the ported rails. Everything else looks good. 3.31s should be ok, as long as you don't ever really plan on going to a single. Also recommend replacing the lifters while you're in there.

devdiesel · May 9, 2015

And ditch the ported rails, lots of guys making 1000+ hp on stock, I agree lifters and even rockers are a good idea to change or at least take a good look at

BilletGarage · May 9, 2015

devdiesel said:
I went to 3.55's, I ran the gear ratios unless you plan on doing something like 150mph in the 1/4 mile lol.. 55's are the best of both worlds... Looks like a solid other than your rolling the dice with stock Pistons. And unless your dead set on a FASS I would look at a fuelab instead

Yeah, when I initially ran the numbers, I realized I wouldn't likely run out of gear on the big end even with 3.73's. My thought was more that a taller gear may help a bit with traction, since lack of torque will never be an issue. Am I thinking soundly there? I also had this crazy idea of maybe doing a Texas Mile type event at some point. Would be cool to find the top end of the truck. Not sure I will have the supporting drive train for it though.

I keep hearing that Fuelab is the most reliable low pressure system. May have to bite the bullet and spend the extra cash to keep myself off the side of the road (and my HPFP's safe). A fresh balanced bottom end with HD pistons (prepped and coated) are not off the table. Although I sure would love to save the cash. LOL These 6.4's are not good for the bank account.... :fustrate:

HOOV3R said:
Don't do the ported rails. Everything else looks good. 3.31s should be ok, as long as you don't ever really plan on going to a single. Also recommend replacing the lifters while you're in there.

Ok, I think I am officially throwing ported rails out of the equation. You guys have convinced me there are better things to spend money on. I was planning to do new rockers and lifters while in there. Good call.

devdiesel said:
And ditch the ported rails, lots of guys making 1000+ hp on stock, I agree lifters and even rockers are a good idea to change or at least take a good look at

Ported rails are out. New rockers and lifters for sure.

Thank you guys for all the input. It's helping a lot in coming up with the final build list.

devdiesel · May 9, 2015

My though was spend more time on suspension setup/ weight relocation to help the traction problem, that way it's still responsive and also hooks pretty decent. I'm not saying I can cut crazy 60 foots ( don't know yet lol) but it transfers well now and runs stong.... I would wait to change gearing is what im saying... A posi or locker is defiantly a must though

HOOV3R · May 9, 2015

I think a fuel cell in the spare tire location is a very good idea if you are worried about traction issues.

RSK · May 9, 2015

BilletGarage said:
This is good info. Thank you! Been following your build and getting inspiration. It looks killer!

I have been rolling combos around in my head for weeks and resisting big fuel mods. I really want this truck to stay clean burning above all else. As smoke free as possible. However, I don't want to needlessly leave power potential on the table, even if I choose not to use it every day. If I can dial back larger injectors with tuning for the street, but have enough fuel to let it eat at the track (with some spray), that would be ideal. And the more I read, and you guys chime in, the more this seems doable.

So, what do you guys think of this combo for that goal:

75/59 Compounds
Wastegate
Dual Fuelers
60% Nozzles
Tank Sump
FASS 220 LPFP
Fuel Bowl Delete
Ported Intake
Ported Fuel Rails (if it will matter)
6.0 or BD Manifolds/UpPipes
Valve Springs
Pushrods
ARP Studs
Stock Bottom End
Stock Heads
Built Trans

The truck will be light and 2wd so I don't see it being as hard on transmissions as heavier 4wd trucks at a similar power level. Stickier tires will obviously tax it a bit more.

Was also thinking of re-gearing the truck from 3.73's down to 3.31's from the older 10.25 rear ends. Anyone done this? Any down side in the strength department?

Thoughts overall?

list looks very familiar...almost identical to the list for my truck except i'm leaving ported fuel rails and intake manifold out of my build not taking a chance on either leaking..... and i'm doing hd pistons. and i plan to spray mine about a half a dozen times...

BilletGarage · May 9, 2015

devdiesel said:
My though was spend more time on suspension setup/ weight relocation to help the traction problem, that way it's still responsive and also hooks pretty decent. I'm not saying I can cut crazy 60 foots ( don't know yet lol) but it transfers well now and runs stong.... I would wait to change gearing is what im saying... A posi or locker is defiantly a must though

I agree. Traction is/and will continue to be an issue. I softened up the rear a bit by pulling a mid pack leaf. Did you pull one or two? I feel like mine could be softened up more, I just love the stance of the truck and don't want to lower the front too much where camber gets out of whack. I like your hydraulic/pneumatic bump stop idea for keeping axle to frame contact under control. If you have good luck with it, I may steal the idea.

My factory limited slip seems pretty strong. Leaves two dark black marks and I don't sense any slipping on hard acceleration. Do the factory units not hold up to hard launches or are some factory rears peg leg? I would definitely get an aftermarket posi-unit if I start having issues.

BilletGarage · May 9, 2015

HOOV3R said:
I think a fuel cell in the spare tire location is a very good idea if you are worried about traction issues.

I debated heavily during the shortening process on whether to go with a short bed tank or do a fuel cell. I kind of regret not doing the fuel cell for the traction benefits alone. Are you using the factory fuel gauge? If so, what sender to gauge interface are you using so they talk nice to each other?

BilletGarage · May 9, 2015

RSK said:
list looks very familiar...almost identical to the list for my truck except i'm leaving ported fuel rails and intake manifold out of my build not taking a chance on either leaking..... and i'm doing hd pistons. and i plan to spray mine about a half a dozen times...

Funny how research can often bring you around to tried and true build combos in the end. For me personally, I HAVE to do all the research myself in order to feel confident about my final decision. I like being able to explain WHY I am doing what I'm doing in light of all the options. Even if it's similar to others. Just the way I'm wired I guess.

I have heard of the leaking fuel rails, but I wasn't aware there was a problem with ported intakes leaking? Aren't they modified on a jig and checked afterwards? Where is the leak? Mating surface? Plugs? A leaking intake manifold would not be good.

HOOV3R · May 9, 2015

BilletGarage said:
I debated heavily during the shortening process on whether to go with a short bed tank or do a fuel cell. I kind of regret not doing the fuel cell for the traction benefits alone. Are you using the factory fuel gauge? If so, what sender to gauge interface are you using so they talk nice to each other?

Had a custom sender made by Isspro to work with the factory cluster.

RSK · May 9, 2015

BilletGarage said:
Funny how research can often bring you around to tried and true build combos in the end. For me personally, I HAVE to do all the research myself in order to feel confident about my final decision. I like being able to explain WHY I am doing what I'm doing in light of all the options. Even if it's similar to others. Just the way I'm wired I guess.

I have heard of the leaking fuel rails, but I wasn't aware there was a problem with ported intakes leaking? Aren't they modified on a jig and checked afterwards? Where is the leak? Mating surface? Plugs? A leaking intake manifold would not be good.

yah i hear ya, i've done countless hours of research before i chose my setup too...I also don't like be a test subject..tried and trued is it for me as well, should be a solid setup. I can't say i've heard of any vendors on here leaking but i have a few buddies who got ported intakes for free and they put them on and they blew out the plugs. so i'm not taking the risk for me if i had a leaking intake manifold it would be 2000-2500 dollars if not even more to have it torn down and stock manifold put back in....i know the ported ones will help, but not worth it for my truck. even with the trans slipping i'm still driving, that's how much i use it, so i hate down time....

devdiesel · May 9, 2015

A good quality ported intake won't leak and is well worth the $, a quick look inside a stock manifold will show why, it's a damn maze in their ! Morgan's race port job on my heads/ manifold plays a big part in why it runs so cool/ smoke free. By no means are my chargers big but their able to work really efficiently because it flows well

7.3powerstroke00 · May 9, 2015

BilletGarage said:
I agree. Traction is/and will continue to be an issue. I softened up the rear a bit by pulling a mid pack leaf. Did you pull one or two? I feel like mine could be softened up more, I just love the stance of the truck and don't want to lower the front too much where camber gets out of whack. I like your hydraulic/pneumatic bump stop idea for keeping axle to frame contact under control. If you have good luck with it, I may steal the idea.

My factory limited slip seems pretty strong. Leaves two dark black marks and I don't sense any slipping on hard acceleration. Do the factory units not hold up to hard launches or are some factory rears peg leg? I would definitely get an aftermarket posi-unit if I start having issues.

Pretty sure DJM offers drop I beams for these trucks also, to help correct camber issues for lower stance...

BilletGarage · May 11, 2015

HOOV3R said:
Had a custom sender made by Isspro to work with the factory cluster.

Very cool! I know they have interface boxes that will convert a common GM sender to the factory cluster impedance range. But a custom sender sounds even better. Thanks for that information.

RSK said:
yah i hear ya, i've done countless hours of research before i chose my setup too...I also don't like be a test subject..tried and trued is it for me as well, should be a solid setup. I can't say i've heard of any vendors on here leaking but i have a few buddies who got ported intakes for free and they put them on and they blew out the plugs. so i'm not taking the risk for me if i had a leaking intake manifold it would be 2000-2500 dollars if not even more to have it torn down and stock manifold put back in....i know the ported ones will help, but not worth it for my truck. even with the trans slipping i'm still driving, that's how much i use it, so i hate down time....

I hear ya.

devdiesel said:
A good quality ported intake won't leak and is well worth the $, a quick look inside a stock manifold will show why, it's a damn maze in their ! Morgan's race port job on my heads/ manifold plays a big part in why it runs so cool/ smoke free. By no means are my chargers big but their able to work really efficiently because it flows well

Good to know. I have seen the maze air has to go through to reach the heads. It looks like there are significant gains to be had there. More to think about.... Thanks for the info.

7.3powerstroke00 said:
Pretty sure DJM offers drop I beams for these trucks also, to help correct camber issues for lower stance...

I am already running DJM drop I beams. To go lower I would need to cut springs or go with a softer coil in front which would increase negative camber and affect geometry. I will need to take a more detailed look at options if I decide to bring it down a bit more. Don't want it handling worse and slamming bump stops front and rear. Would love to convert the front to independent and notch the rear, but that kind of fab is not in the budget. Most guys who are laying out Ford Super Duty trucks (or getting them very low) are grafting in the front clip from a GM 2500HD and then step notching the rear and ditching leafs. Then you have lots of adjustability.

sootie · May 12, 2015

RSK said:
yah i hear ya, i've done countless hours of research before i chose my setup too...I also don't like be a test subject..tried and trued is it for me as well, should be a solid setup. I can't say i've heard of any vendors on here leaking but i have a few buddies who got ported intakes for free and they put them on and they blew out the plugs. so i'm not taking the risk for me if i had a leaking intake manifold it would be 2000-2500 dollars if not even more to have it torn down and stock manifold put back in....i know the ported ones will help, but not worth it for my truck. even with the trans slipping i'm still driving, that's how much i use it, so i hate down time....

Must have been one piece of Sh!t intake. any vendor worth their salt wouldn't sell one like that. mine hasnt leaked for years