that_diesel_guy_kevin
New member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2020
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
Project: WUT D P F
- Thread starter Strictly Diesel
- Start date
Strictly Diesel
Active member
DJM 3/5 Kit
Strictly Diesel
Active member
Discovered something interesting, as I finally drove the truck at night. All of the "warning lights" are about 10-20% lit, all the time. Apparently there is enough voltage on those circuits to partially light the LEDs due to them having no load like a filament type bulb. I guess I'm going to be playing around in a dark shop trying to figure out the best fix for this. Crap!
that_diesel_guy_kevin
New member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2020
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
Mine do the same thing I have blue leds and you can barely see them might put the original bulbs back in
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
sootie
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2012
- Messages
- 11,849
- Reaction score
- 35
Are you sure they are partially lit? I've seen it where the illumination from the other bright LEDs that are actually on, reflecting thru the cluster
that_diesel_guy_kevin
New member
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2020
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 0
I'll find or take a picture of how mine look to show yall when I get off work
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Strictly Diesel
Active member
Yes, because I can see them with the headlilghts off, so it isn't the "illumination" bulbs doing it.
uncool
New member
For the mirrors, order the control switch for the 06-07, it is internally different than the 99-05 control switch and the 08+ mirrors will work without taking them apart.
Marc
Marc
Strictly Diesel
Active member
Have to look into that, thanks!
Strictly Diesel
Active member
Taking some time off this week and working on the truck. Yesterday was "Rear Door Day". I started by pulling the power window regulator assemblies out and cleaning the inside surfaces of the doors (inner skin where door panel mounts, and inside of outer skin as well).
Then I changed out the power lock actuators and installed new outer door handles with Jimmy Jammers. Sorry, no pics, didn't seem interesting enough.
Then I put in my sound deadening, on both the inner door skin as well as the inside of the outer door skin.
After installing the New OE power window regulator assemblies, reinstalling the OE vapor barrier and buttoning up the door panel, I installed new (updated) OE weatherstripping on the door opening and upgraded the door strikers to the Mustang units with the rubber bumpers.
The difference in sound when you close the door is so noticeable! I will get to the front doors later this week. It will be nice to have all of the windows and locks working right again, and the sound deadening is such a nice upgrade. Eventually I will make the time to gut the rest of the interior, pull the dash and sound deaden the rest of the cab.
Then I changed out the power lock actuators and installed new outer door handles with Jimmy Jammers. Sorry, no pics, didn't seem interesting enough.
Then I put in my sound deadening, on both the inner door skin as well as the inside of the outer door skin.
After installing the New OE power window regulator assemblies, reinstalling the OE vapor barrier and buttoning up the door panel, I installed new (updated) OE weatherstripping on the door opening and upgraded the door strikers to the Mustang units with the rubber bumpers.
The difference in sound when you close the door is so noticeable! I will get to the front doors later this week. It will be nice to have all of the windows and locks working right again, and the sound deadening is such a nice upgrade. Eventually I will make the time to gut the rest of the interior, pull the dash and sound deaden the rest of the cab.
Zeb
New member
Taking some time off this week and working on the truck. Yesterday was "Rear Door Day". I started by pulling the power window regulator assemblies out and cleaning the inside surfaces of the doors (inner skin where door panel mounts, and inside of outer skin as well).
Then I changed out the power lock actuators and installed new outer door handles with Jimmy Jammers. Sorry, no pics, didn't seem interesting enough.
Then I put in my sound deadening, on both the inner door skin as well as the inside of the outer door skin.
After installing the New OE power window regulator assemblies, reinstalling the OE vapor barrier and buttoning up the door panel, I installed new (updated) OE weatherstripping on the door opening and upgraded the door strikers to the Mustang units with the rubber bumpers.
The difference in sound when you close the door is so noticeable! I will get to the front doors later this week. It will be nice to have all of the windows and locks working right again, and the sound deadening is such a nice upgrade. Eventually I will make the time to gut the rest of the interior, pull the dash and sound deaden the rest of the cab.
Very nice!
I recently tackled a similar clean and insulate on my semi cab. It is a job that isn’t much fun, but sure worth the results when finished.
Strictly Diesel
Active member
Finally finished the front doors. Same deal as the rears, new OE lock actuators, new OE window regulator assemblies, everything cleaned and sound deadening added to the outer and inner surfaces. Fronts also got rear door handles without lock cylinders, Jimmy Jammers, Mustang strikers and new weatherstripping (not pictured). No real new info here, just pictures of the front door work.
J98
Active member
Love seeing the updates on this build. Any recommendations on where could I source that sound deadening insulation that your using?
Strictly Diesel
Active member
The company that makes this stuff is local to us. There are multiple brands out there, Dynamat being the most well known. Any local stereo store should be able to sell it to you.
Derkperk
Member
Super cool Dennis. How much weight do you figure you have added in each door?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Strictly Diesel
Active member
So far, based on how much material I've used, 30# (ish) for all 4 doors.
Where I will go through a bunch more material (and add a bunch more weight) is when get to the floor, back wall and roof. I started with 4 cases of material, which is right about 100#. I'm pretty sure I will need more once I get into the large areas. That's just the "deadener" like you see in the pictures.
I will also be adding an additional later of a sticky backed foam material that blocks sound. That will go on the floor, back wall, roof and hopefully the firewall if I decide to bite the bullet and pull the dash. If I like it, I may go back and add it to the doors as well.
Where I will go through a bunch more material (and add a bunch more weight) is when get to the floor, back wall and roof. I started with 4 cases of material, which is right about 100#. I'm pretty sure I will need more once I get into the large areas. That's just the "deadener" like you see in the pictures.
I will also be adding an additional later of a sticky backed foam material that blocks sound. That will go on the floor, back wall, roof and hopefully the firewall if I decide to bite the bullet and pull the dash. If I like it, I may go back and add it to the doors as well.
03_PSD
Member
Great updates!
I want to do the entire cab also, I've only done the doors. I've also installed the updated door strikers and they make a difference, no rattling at all!
I want to do the entire cab also, I've only done the doors. I've also installed the updated door strikers and they make a difference, no rattling at all!
dsberman94
Well-known member
I did the rear wall below the window and the entire floor as far as I could without pulling the dash. It definitely made a different back the, but now I can’t tell.
Strictly Diesel
Active member
So, it would appear that my CCV setup will need some additional work. I do think this engine is a bit tired, but it hasn't been worth the time to actually compression test it. It does have a miss that isn't injectors, wiring or IDM. I guess I will reserve judgement on the CCV setup until I get a fresh bullet in place.
The canister is catching some oil. This is about 3000 miles worth.
The problem is, it is still allowing enough of it to make it back up to the intake. No way to really know how much, but enough to be visible.
The canister is mounted down low, behind the drivers front tire. There's a good 3-4' of hose down and then back up. I was really hoping that this would be enough hose and a good enough canister setup to do a better job than this.
Could be that the canister is too small. Could be that running both valve covers to one canister is too much for it. Could be that this old turd has more blowby than this setup can efficiently handle. At some point I will need to remove the charge air tubes, it will be interesting to see how much oil is making it to those.
Not the best update, but all I've got for now.
The canister is catching some oil. This is about 3000 miles worth.
The problem is, it is still allowing enough of it to make it back up to the intake. No way to really know how much, but enough to be visible.
The canister is mounted down low, behind the drivers front tire. There's a good 3-4' of hose down and then back up. I was really hoping that this would be enough hose and a good enough canister setup to do a better job than this.
Could be that the canister is too small. Could be that running both valve covers to one canister is too much for it. Could be that this old turd has more blowby than this setup can efficiently handle. At some point I will need to remove the charge air tubes, it will be interesting to see how much oil is making it to those.
Not the best update, but all I've got for now.
6 Piston Power
New member
Looks good so far
