Pulling a ZF6
- Thread starter rascal
- Start date
Arisley
Moderator
It has to be the same threads as the bolt that screws in the engine. Just pull a bolt and take it to Home Depot and match it. If you can't find the all thread the same size, buy a couple of bolts and cut the heads off.
fordornothing
New member
You said you went with a south bend clutch right? It should come with a Kevlar bushing instead of a bearing.
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hwrdbd
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Prybar
sniper_101
New member
Check the clutch fork for cracks. In fact, check the p# on the fork and be sure it's the updated one. The older version does, and will break on you, if you still have it in there.
Got a new one. Thanks!
I tried wedging one in there but did not have any luck. I will try again. Thanks.
fordornothing
New member
I took a big square shank screwdriver and laid in the teeth and stuck the end where ever it would sit on the back of the block. It's a pain especially under the truck but it works. Remember 89 ft/lb on the flywheel to crank bolts
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Thank you for the suggestions guys. I will try them and see which one works best for me.
I think I know whey my rear main seal is leaking; the shrapnel from the pilot bearing grenade took it out.
I have not worked on the truck in about a week and I am going to Colorado on Thursday so it will be a week or so before I get started on it again.
Will update the thread with pics and progress as they happen.
Thanks!
littleredstroker
New member
flywheel lock tool for what? getting the bearing out ? just get a slide hammer
Nah, I am replacing my rear main and when I initally tried unbolting the flywheel it would turn over the engine over rather than break the bolt loose.
I think I am going with the chain suggestion posted earlier.
Thanks
littleredstroker
New member
getcha a par of testiculars and someone else to run the wrench LOLLOL
Arisley
Moderator
Just simply hit it with a air impact. BAM, instantly off.
Got the flywheel off and the pilot bearing fell out in pieces. I ended up using the chain method to hold the flywheel and it worked great. However, now I have a problem. The rear main looks ok for the most part. There are not any obvious places where the oil would have been coming out of. I am including pics. I have more but these are the best ones. The first couple pics are before a quick wipe down to clean everything up a little
It almost looks like the rear seal of the oil pan might be the leak.
Any thoughts and/or suggestions are appreciated.
It almost looks like the rear seal of the oil pan might be the leak.
Any thoughts and/or suggestions are appreciated.
Looks much like the way a friends pan was leaking. We were smart and put dye in before pulling the trans. He was hoping for rear main seal, once the flywheel was off it was obvious it was the area on the bottom of that cover plate where it meets the pan. Funny thing is that he had his previous mechanic do the rotted out oil pan a few years back and his truck has leaked from the rear ever since.
Anyhow now his engine is out on a stand as there were other issues with sticking valves and bent push rods. I just ordered him a new rear cover plate, since when I was cleaning up the original one I found it to have a number of gouges and possible manufacturing issues that could lead to leaks. I'm putting on the new Moroso extra thick oil pan and using thier silicone molded gasket, so I didn't want to take any chances of having leaks back there due to the previous mechanic gouging the sealing surface or a defect. With RTV it "should" be ok, but for $46 bucks I wasn't gonna take any chances.
The Moroso pan is much thicker metal than a Ford OEM pan, and supposedly much better coated to prevent rotting away. Was about $80 more than buying a pan from Ford, and you gotta add the cost of the gasket too.
Something else you can try, clean up the area really well with brake clean or something like that and then try pushing up on the lip of the pan there with a board or something. if you see oil or any liquid squeeze out, its a good chance that is your leak point. On the front of my friends truck you could se oil bubble out of the pan/timing cover interface where the RTV had never bonded. When I pulled the pan off, it came off without me even fighting with it, just lifted right off, and 100% of the RTV came with it. None had stuck to the block, so his previous mechanic didn't prep the surface in the least. Done a number of oil pans on cars and the ones that used RTV for a seal ALWAYS needed to be pried off, this pan prolly would have fallen off in my hands given the chance.
Anyhow now his engine is out on a stand as there were other issues with sticking valves and bent push rods. I just ordered him a new rear cover plate, since when I was cleaning up the original one I found it to have a number of gouges and possible manufacturing issues that could lead to leaks. I'm putting on the new Moroso extra thick oil pan and using thier silicone molded gasket, so I didn't want to take any chances of having leaks back there due to the previous mechanic gouging the sealing surface or a defect. With RTV it "should" be ok, but for $46 bucks I wasn't gonna take any chances.
The Moroso pan is much thicker metal than a Ford OEM pan, and supposedly much better coated to prevent rotting away. Was about $80 more than buying a pan from Ford, and you gotta add the cost of the gasket too.
Something else you can try, clean up the area really well with brake clean or something like that and then try pushing up on the lip of the pan there with a board or something. if you see oil or any liquid squeeze out, its a good chance that is your leak point. On the front of my friends truck you could se oil bubble out of the pan/timing cover interface where the RTV had never bonded. When I pulled the pan off, it came off without me even fighting with it, just lifted right off, and 100% of the RTV came with it. None had stuck to the block, so his previous mechanic didn't prep the surface in the least. Done a number of oil pans on cars and the ones that used RTV for a seal ALWAYS needed to be pried off, this pan prolly would have fallen off in my hands given the chance.
The dye would have been a good idea. I will eventually be pulling the engine but I am not going to at this time.
I am going to try and shore up the rear seal of the pan until I can pull the engine.
The unfortunate part of this is I bought the OTC rear main puller/installer (275) in preparation for it being the rear main. Never thought it was going to be the oil pan. Lesson learned!
Thanks for the reply.
I am going to try and shore up the rear seal of the pan until I can pull the engine.
The unfortunate part of this is I bought the OTC rear main puller/installer (275) in preparation for it being the rear main. Never thought it was going to be the oil pan. Lesson learned!
Thanks for the reply.
