Pulling the Motor

2000wa250 · Feb 26, 2012

I'm thinking that since I am going to be doing Studs, Springs and Push Rods, it might be easier to pull the motor than trying to hassle with it in the truck. This would also give me an opportunity to clean up the motor and engine bay a bit, and to coat the oil pan.

I have never pulled one of these engines, but feel confident that I can do it with some help from a couple of friends. Only questions I have is on the procedure part of things. Can someone give me a simple run down, or link to a write up, on pulling the motor?

96stacked&smoken · Feb 26, 2012

subed

davey99ps · Feb 26, 2012

I've had mine out once, an it'll be coming out again pretty soon. I've gotta do basically the same stuff as you, studs, springs, pushrods, p&p heads possibly, new oil pan with a drain in it for 2nd charger an also to clean it up an paint it. I don't really have an exact answer for you, i just go through an label the electrical connections as I disconnect them, undo the motor mounts, bellhousing an tq converter bolts, remove turbo an fuel lines, an out it comes. I'm sure I'm forgetting a bunch of small stuff, but that gives you a general idea

2000wa250 · Feb 26, 2012

Yea, I have the general idea. However I cant seem to find where it differs between a manual and an automatic. Some say with a manual you have to drop the tranny, others say you dont. I guess I should have done a better job specifying that that is my main concern.

That being said,

How does the procedure for pulling the motor change with a manual vs an automatic? What do I need to do to pull it with an manual specifically?

davey99ps · Feb 26, 2012

I've never pulled a 7.3 with a manual behind it, however ive done plenty of gas motors. You do not have to drop the tranny, undo the bellhousing bolts as usual an out the motor comes with the clutch an flywheel still attached. If you unbolt the clutch, make sure you have 1 of those plastic alignment tools to put it back on. When you go to put the engine back in, have 1 person under the truck to line the input shaft on the trans up with the clutch as the motor goes back in. You might have to loosen the trans mount up to get it to wiggle a bit, but you shouldn't have to pull the trans if you don't want to.

2000wa250 · Feb 26, 2012

OK that makes sense. Excuse my ignorance, but where does the engine mount up to the stand?

davey99ps · Feb 26, 2012

Your gonna need a heavy duty stand to hold that motor. I had a stand, an then modified it to hold, but generally the motor bolts up to the stand by the bellhousing holes. Which means you'll have to take the clutch an flywheel off

2000wa250 · Feb 26, 2012

Ok. Thanks!

Is there any issues with taking off those two? Its not something that will need to be replaced if removed is it?

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davey99ps · Feb 26, 2012

No, but I do recommend using loctite on both the flywheel bolts an the clutch bolts. I've had people tell me that when you remove the flywheel you need to put it back on using the same holes as when it was pulled, but I've never done that an never had any problems. When you put the clutch back on you'll need an alignment tool, they're just a little plastic peice that looks like the first 5 inches or so of the input shaft, all it does is center the clutch while you tighten it. They always come with a new clutch, but I would think any auto parts place should have 1 if you don't

davey99ps · Feb 26, 2012

Another tip that can really help is use a digital camera an take lots of pics as your disassembling an pulling the motor. It's nice to be able to have something to use as a reference when your putting it all back together an hooking everything back up.

ToMang07 · Feb 26, 2012

Subscribing...

ford_trck · Feb 26, 2012

Undo the front driveshaft from the transfer case, you can either remove the rear driveshaft from the transfer case and drop the carrier bearing or just drop the carrier bearing. Remove the transmission mount remove transmission cooler lines, remove starter pull the transmission. If you have help remove the hood, it gives more light and is nicer working with it out of the way. Remove the hole front end of the truck, headlights, header panel, radiator, condenser, intercooler, and the crossover support connecting the fenders together. Unbolt the ac compressor and lay it to the side. remove battery cable going to engine and disconnect engine harness on the left side. remove intake disconnect fuel lines p/s lines, turbo, easier to me to remove up pipes also undo engine ground on rear of engine on the back of the right cylinder head, loosen up engine mounts under truck and get a picker that can handle a 1000 LBS engine. There is stuff I left out but thats the most of it.

2000wa250 · Feb 26, 2012

Ok so with a manual the issue with the transmission is getting the input shaft lined up with the hole in the clutch?

If I understand everything correctly the reason for pulling the transmission is to make it easier to line up this connection. Can the engine be pulled without pulling the transmission, and then loosen the tranny when reinstalling the engine to make it easier to line up?

Reading that last list really makes it seem daunting to pull the engine and makes me think its worth the hassle to just do studs and springs in the truck. However if its just a matter of loosening the tranny when putting the engine back in so that its easier to line up that is something I can work with. Don't really want to pull the tranny because that seems like a lot more work than just the engine.

What about pulling the engine and tranny as one? Is that something that is feasible on these trucks? Then pull the transmission off the engine put it on the stand do the work on it and the bolt the tranny back on and put it all back in the truck?
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ford_trck · Feb 26, 2012

The worst part of pulling the transmission is dealing with the transfer case attached. You need to attach the transmission to the jack or remove the transfer case from the transmission. I worked in a shop for years and still do whenever they need me. Pulling an engine is usually not a small task but if you keep your stuff together and take pictures of the before and during steps most people can make it through without too many issues.
If your worried about the transmission part before you remove your shifter make sure the transmission is in gear. This way when you go to reinstall the transmission you can turn the output shaft to help line up your transmission to the clutch. Also use locktight if you pull the clutch or flywheel the blue stuff is enough.

kilapapipa · Feb 26, 2012

You also have to take out the whole front clip to get the engine out. Also remove the turbo before for clearance issues.

I think I would do studs and springs with the motor in. Lots of guys have done that.

2000wa250 · Feb 26, 2012

Im aware of the front clip. Im ok with that. Just nervous of anything with the transmission since I haven't touched that.

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Homesteader · Feb 27, 2012

2000wa250 said:
OK that makes sense. Excuse my ignorance, but where does the engine mount up to the stand?

Make sure you got a good strong stand for it. I built a heavy duty stand for my motor.

Dieselboy. · Feb 27, 2012

You DONT have to drop the trans to pull the motor. Just undo the crossmember mount and slide it back.

Pull the whole front end off, cooler rad IC and front clip. Pull hoses lines electrical connections and any gauge lines.

Leave the battery trays, take off the AC pump and flip it into the one tray and do the same with the whole power steering bracket and pump on the other side.

Make sure you pull your oil filter, its 2" less you have to lift it.

I rig the chain up so it lifts the front of the motor up a bit higher so it clears the cowling easier as well as the hood.

Take pics, buy a bunch off zip lock bags and label everything.

From roll in to motor on the stand and tools away with 1 buddy I can have a PSD in 3-4 hours.

2000wa250 · Feb 27, 2012

Dieselboy

Is that with a manual transmission? Your sliding the transmission back how much? Is this just so that when you reinstall you can mount the motor and slide the transmission back into place?

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Dieselboy. · Feb 27, 2012

I HAD a 6spd. Not anymore, give it time and you will no longer be able to disapate the nerve to swap a built auto controlled by a PCS LOL, thats another story though

All you do is unbolt the 2 bolts (Believe they are 13/16", same as motor mounts) on the trans crossmember, the mount holes are elongated and allow over an inch of travel. Slide it back as it removes that much of the input shaft already and makes re-installation that much easier. Then just line up the shaft and slide it back into place.