Random Stalling

JD3020 · May 7, 2013

Just ordered one of the BW CPS's, its in stock at my local Advanced Auto, $19.46 with tax, i'll have it in tomorrow. Can't wait to see if this helps out my idle!

TARM · May 7, 2013

Well if you have failures in your Contributiuon test or your perdels on cylinders swing wildly from 0 to 5+ then yes I think it very much could help. If your issues are for some other reason that maybe not.

IF you have it act up after the swap when the wipers are on try cutting the ground coming out of the wiper motor and add more wire and ground it separately. That should stop it. Then again BW may have made changes to hep not make it as sensitive as older ones. But the issue from all I have seen is trash interference from the wiper motor. This is the only complaint I have ever seen about the BW CPS

JD3020 · May 7, 2013

TARM said:
Well if you have failures in your Contributiuon test or your perdels on cylinders swing wildly from 0 to 5+ then yes I think it very much could help. If your issues are for some other reason that maybe not.

IF you have it act up after the swap when the wipers are on try cutting the ground coming out of the wiper motor and add more wire and ground it separately. That should stop it. Then again BW may have made changes to hep not make it as sensitive as older ones. But the issue from all I have seen is trash interference from the wiper motor. This is the only complaint I have ever seen about the BW CPS

My truck has thrown a code on the contribution test, although i can't remember which one. And i threw an old grey Ford CPS in the other day and the idle changed. So who knows what'll happen. For $20 its worth a shot.

And is that a SD specific issue? Seems like everything i've read about it has been SD related, whereas i've got an OBS.

TARM · May 7, 2013

Yes it seems SD related. Obviously the wiper motor or any electric motor could cause an issue like this. My guess is that if it does not ever happen with OBS then its likely that the reason is they do not share a common ground in the OBS format where the SD does. I think this would be further proof of this being the reason for it. The issue seems to be specifically because the PCM CPS share that ground as I understand it.

When I get back from my trip I will be making the change on my excursion even though it does not seem to have an issue presently with it. I think its likely a good change for anyone to make. After all consider these wiper motors are what minimum of 10 yrs old as much as 14 in SD format. Its not wonder there are a good number that have issue. Way I look at it is look how many get noise in the aftermarket radios after install. Same deal here but a far easier and cheaper fix.

I would like to see a few more first hand so I can say definitively this IS the answer for that issue. But one thing for sure the present BWD CPS as far as Hall Sensor and its dimension and locations in depth and center is identical to the old blacks.

That Ford grey you pulled. IF you are not worried about it cut the cap of the end with a dremel or even hack saw. See how thick the end plastic is covering the sensor. You have to take that depth of offset into consideration of the proper clearance to the cam gear. The BWD and Ford Blacks had barely a film of plastic. This means that the sensor on the grey if the plastic is .25" are double the spec of .25" from the sensor when installed as the air gap is suppose to be .25". That means the sensor itself rather than .25 is actually .50 or double the ideal distance.

I think this is the major issue and then if the sensor is off set you then end up with a timing change via the tanget of that off set. I think it was computed @ 1/8" = to 2.4-2.6 degrees of timing change. Stock maybe not a big deal. Chipped and hopped up could be a big deal.

TARM · May 7, 2013

NWPAStroker,

Any updates is it still stalling or running rough? Tried anything else?

JD3020 · May 8, 2013

Picked up the new CPS today. Definitely looks different than my current gray one. Been forever since i've even seen a black one so hard to remember what they look like. But the engine is too hot to be messing with right now, letting it cool down and i'll go swap em out.

nwpastroker · May 8, 2013

Its been okay for the past week, i drive 110 miles a day for work so i only drive it on the weekends. Checked out the wiring to the idm, everything seems okay, this weekend I'm going to throw the 400cc sticks, studs, springs, pushrods, new tuner, swamps idm, uvch and gaskets and a new ipr. That should be about everything on the truck. If I can keep my foot out of it, it should be reliable

nwpastroker · May 9, 2013

Drive the truck all the way to work today, made it 115 miles and couldn't make it the extra .5 mile bak my driveway. Stalled out again, I noticed quite a few things this time thanks to the scan guage. Dc was up at 66%, and has never broken 40% before, that is when it missed. ICP isn't building past 100. New sensor, "dummy guage" in dash wasn't showing low pressure oil till I cranked. I have a few questions. Does the scanguage read ipr based on position of the plunger in the valve, or off of demand set by computer? Next one is there any way stock split shots could drain the resovoir for the hpop? I'm thinking ipr here, due to the off the wall number I was getting, but I'm also wondering if lpop isn't enough?
Thanks guys

nwpastroker · May 9, 2013

Replaced the ipr, old one had some gunk on it, ill clean it up an keep it as a spare. Resovoir was full before ipr change, so Im thinking the lpop problem is nonexistent. After ipr change truck would not start, ICP was 100-200. Removed ICP wire, truck started right up. Plugged ICP back in, idle changed but truck continued to run. Shut down, then restarted with ICP plugged in, started fine. This is a brand new ICP. Slight amount of oil on connector. What is my best bet here? Replace sensor and wiring with new ford parts?

nwpastroker · May 9, 2013

Icp does alot of "hunting" anywhere from 425-575 at idle. After a hard 3k rev, not driving, ICP will fall as low as 350 and truck will lope

lincolnlocker · May 9, 2013

you have a new never used ipr and icp sensor? usually if its hunting that much its a bad/dirty/chit oring on the ipr... if the icp sensor is brand new, was the connector clean before you put it in the new sensor? where did the icp sensor and the ipr come from?

live life full throttle

nwpastroker · May 10, 2013

Ipr was just installed yesterday. ICP was done maybe 2-3 weeks ago. Both were brand new purchased from ford. Connection was clean in pigtail when I put it together a few weeks ago, now oil is seeping by. Idle is great without ICP plugged in

POWER-STRUCK · May 10, 2013

if it has a misfire and an icp issue i would consider checking the injectors to see if a poppet is leaking

lincolnlocker · May 10, 2013

how many miles on truck since ipr was put in? and if the idle changes when the icp sensor is unplugged that means its still working but with the oil in it, who knows how long it will continue to...

nwpastroker · May 10, 2013

Ipr has 0 miles, 2 start ups, that's it. ICP has 300 miles

lincolnlocker · May 10, 2013

put some miles on it.. prolly have some air in the system from pulling old ipr out and putting new in... then monitor it and see if still fluctuating.

live life full throttle

nwpastroker · May 10, 2013

I'm going to do injectors and all the other stuff associated with hybrids. I know that there could be air in the system, my issues are that it wouldn't start with ICP plugged in

lincolnlocker · May 10, 2013

is it starting now with the icp plugged in?

live life full throttle

nwpastroker · May 10, 2013

I have it tore apart right now for a while for injectors, studs, springs,pushrods, valve cover gaskets and harness, idm and new tuner

lincolnlocker · May 10, 2013

i prolly would have made sure it was running right before you go through all that.. good luck though... hope it straightens out.. im sure you just needed to drive it some..

live life full throttle