Scan Gauge Group Buy

[03-Blue-Powerstroke]

3 more...

 

[Paul@CP_Trucks]

Paul, what can you do for a dual gauge kit? I have one gauge in the mail already.

Did you find out anything about that 650 dash as well?

So you just need the second gauge and connector correct?

I haven't found anything on the dash yet although I am still looking.

Whats the price for a steering column pod?

They are $38.00 Shipping however will be a little extra with the pod.

Can it be hooked up from truck to truck or are there hard lines?

Joe it can be hooked from truck to truck. Just don't zip tie all your wires up.

can i get silver bezel, black face, blue lighting? that outta match up close enough to my cobalts. if so, add me. tree trimmer E99 7.3 silver/black/blue. if not, ill do something else for a hpop guage.

They come standard with a black ring, silver ring, black face, and white face. They will match the cobalt gauges very well.

Thats a good point, I didnt think about that when you took it out.. I was kinda planning on swaping out one of mine on the pillar but holy pain if I gotta scan another truck....

Just to be a pain.. is it possible to list the cost of the steering colum pod and the cost of a spare cable?

I will check on the spare cable.....

Maybe a dumb question, what gauges does this take the place of? Like if I get this will I still need boost, pyro, or tranny?
I did some research but I'm a little nieve when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks.

You can add boost, and pyro functions to the scan gauge.

paul, what is the price on the dash pod? same as their site or is there a discount on that too?

It is $38.00 with a little extra shipping

With the scan gauge, what other gauges would you go with or recommend?

I would get a regular pyro, boost and trans temp and use the scan gauge for your other functions.

 

[Bobby@cp]

Guys you can also add fuel psi to the scan gauge too, there are a few different senders that can be added.

 

[Tree Trimmer]

1. Ouch 2003 7.3, White
2.washingtoncoastie 2003 7.3 excursion. Ill take blue!
3.choupique108 - 03 7.3, blue lighting
4.cw96stroker 2001 7.3, Blue
5. Mini-Stroke... 1996 7.3 Green lighting with a steering column pod for a 5spd please
6.03-Blue-Powerstroke, 03' 6.0, green + steering wheel pod
7.Jdneis- 97' 7.3 Green lighting
8. tree trimmer E99 7.3 silver/black/blue lighting
9.
10.

 

[Bobby@cp]

Update.


1. Ouch 2003 7.3, White
2.washingtoncoastie 2003 7.3 excursion. Ill take blue!
3.choupique108 - 03 7.3, blue lighting
4.cw96stroker 2001 7.3, Blue
5. Mini-Stroke... 1996 7.3 Green lighting with a steering column pod for a 5spd please
6.03-Blue-Powerstroke, 03' 6.0, green + steering wheel pod
7.Jdneis- 97' 7.3 Green lighting
8. tree trimmer E99 7.3 silver/black/blue lighting
9.Taterthedog 2001 7.3 green lighting.
10.

 

[Enoch]

Ok, I don't plan on inj. bigger turbo, etc. Main focus is on suspension, but do tow for work.
Not to keep on getting off topic, but what temp. range is normal and what is too hot?

I do appreciate the info.

 

[bluedge8]

temp range for trans? they say 100* over ambient is acceptable, and you don't want to run over 200 much if you can help it, 220 and you better take a break and let it cool down. when I pull my travel trailer the trans really gets hot coming off of the interstate and takes a long time to cool off in stop and go traffic. Also lots of guys have burned up transmissions by backing up a load and overheating them.

 

[Ouch]

Does the gauge read higher or lower than your other gauges for trans temp? Or does it vary?

 

[Bobby@cp]

Alright guys we have our ten people for this group buy.

 

[bluedge8]

Does the gauge read higher or lower than your other gauges for trans temp? Or does it vary?

it starts off way off like 230* then drops down and is within a few degrees of the gauge- mostly due to taking readings in different spots in the trans.

 

[Tree Trimmer]

if your trans guages hits 230* back off, stop, do something. you can run 220* for about 30 mins before the heat starts to damage things.

mark kovlovsky(think i spelled it right), former ford transmission engineer(think the guy(s) who designed the damn thing), has ran one at 300* for short durations and not seen negative effects.

its the prolonged exposure to the heat that kills them.

or backing up, baking it, and shutting the truck off. when backing up a trailer, if you push the go pedal and it doesnt move easy, go to 4lo. you dont need to lock in the front end, you need the gear reduction. backing up a heavy load, having to push to half throttle to get it to move, will generate a chit ton of heat real fast. i backed up my skidloader, bout 11k trailer and skid loader, up a small hill, less than 15* of angle yes thats almost flat, about 50ft and i was at about 260*. it took about 10 secs.

if you do get it that hot, backing up, drop the trailer, and take it for a short ride down the road. get some air moving across the cooler, dont just let it sit in the driveway running.

when pulling a trailer in drive, 70% of your heat will come because the truck is shifting. pulling hills, and it down shifts to go up the hill, then up shifts to go down it. once or twice is no biggy. pulling rolling hills like that will generate lots of heat. take it out of od, leave it in third, dont let it shift, and it will run cooler, not to mention its easier on the trans. if you know your just gonna go up the hill again as soon as you get to the bottom, just leave it in third. you should also get some engine braking also to help you down, less you have some coast clutch issues.

for normal driving, 80-100* over ambient is normal. pulling you will run hotter. stop and go traffic you will run hotter. <--thats cuz its shifting, and starting from a stop.

if you feel you have trans heat issues, get another/different cooler. common ones are the 6.0 cooler, and the tru-cool. the tru cool is cheaper, though not as large, the 6.0 cooler is almost the size of your ac condensor, and more expensive. mild towing, the tru cool is more than adequite. heavy towing, spend the cash, get the 6.0 cooler.

and for the guy with the discrepency of temps across multiple guages. two guages will rarely match temps. boost will almost always be spot on, but temps will vary. its common to see +/- 20* ish between two guages. its all in how the companies set their tolerances, materials they used, etc etc. you ever used two different brands of wrenches and one fit kinda loose and the other fit real well? i mean not sloppy, just didnt feel right, made you check the next size just to make sure you were right? same principle.

 

[Tree Trimmer]

take the plug out of the sending unit and look for some corrosion in there. corrosion in there, then running down the road, then getting the slight wiggle associated with that "cleaning" it, is what setting it back to right. at least that was the issue on mine.

 

[bluedge8]

tree trimmer the temp I was talking about is an inaccurate reading, verified by my real gauge and it happens when the truck is cold and stabilizes when the trans comes up to temp. but everything you wrote is correct.

 

[Paul@CP_Trucks]

We have reached the 10 needed

 

[JDNeis]

Forgot to add, Black bezel, black face to mine please. Thanks

 

[Bobby@cp]

Forgot to add, Black bezel, black face to mine please. Thanks

Added to the list.

 

[Enoch]

temp range for trans? they say 100* over ambient is acceptable, and you don't want to run over 200 much if you can help it, 220 and you better take a break and let it cool down. when I pull my travel trailer the trans really gets hot coming off of the interstate and takes a long time to cool off in stop and go traffic. Also lots of guys have burned up transmissions by backing up a load and overheating them.

Thanks a ton, a lot of good info. here.

 

[Ouch]

now whats the next step PM information?

 

[Enoch]

if your trans guages hits 230* back off, stop, do something. you can run 220* for about 30 mins before the heat starts to damage things.

mark kovlovsky(think i spelled it right), former ford transmission engineer(think the guy(s) who designed the damn thing), has ran one at 300* for short durations and not seen negative effects.

its the prolonged exposure to the heat that kills them.

or backing up, baking it, and shutting the truck off. when backing up a trailer, if you push the go pedal and it doesnt move easy, go to 4lo. you dont need to lock in the front end, you need the gear reduction. backing up a heavy load, having to push to half throttle to get it to move, will generate a chit ton of heat real fast. i backed up my skidloader, bout 11k trailer and skid loader, up a small hill, less than 15* of angle yes thats almost flat, about 50ft and i was at about 260*. it took about 10 secs.

if you do get it that hot, backing up, drop the trailer, and take it for a short ride down the road. get some air moving across the cooler, dont just let it sit in the driveway running.

when pulling a trailer in drive, 70% of your heat will come because the truck is shifting. pulling hills, and it down shifts to go up the hill, then up shifts to go down it. once or twice is no biggy. pulling rolling hills like that will generate lots of heat. take it out of od, leave it in third, dont let it shift, and it will run cooler, not to mention its easier on the trans. if you know your just gonna go up the hill again as soon as you get to the bottom, just leave it in third. you should also get some engine braking also to help you down, less you have some coast clutch issues.

for normal driving, 80-100* over ambient is normal. pulling you will run hotter. stop and go traffic you will run hotter. <--thats cuz its shifting, and starting from a stop.

if you feel you have trans heat issues, get another/different cooler. common ones are the 6.0 cooler, and the tru-cool. the tru cool is cheaper, though not as large, the 6.0 cooler is almost the size of your ac condensor, and more expensive. mild towing, the tru cool is more than adequite. heavy towing, spend the cash, get the 6.0 cooler.

and for the guy with the discrepency of temps across multiple guages. two guages will rarely match temps. boost will almost always be spot on, but temps will vary. its common to see +/- 20* ish between two guages. its all in how the companies set their tolerances, materials they used, etc etc. you ever used two different brands of wrenches and one fit kinda loose and the other fit real well? i mean not sloppy, just didnt feel right, made you check the next size just to make sure you were right? same principle.

I don't know how I missed this, but I did. Thanks for all the info. and break down, much appreciated and knew none of this. I tow a small trailer maybe 5,000lbs for work..
Another question, what is ambient temp. when you say 80-100 over ambient temp.?

Thanks

 

[03-Blue-Powerstroke]

I don't know how I missed this, but I did. Thanks for all the info. and break down, much appreciated and knew none of this. I tow a small trailer maybe 5,000lbs for work..
Another question, what is ambient temp. when you say 80-100 over ambient temp.?

Thanks

It's the temp out side. If its 70* your trans should be between 150-170*