Signs of Nozzle Issues
- Thread starter caladash
- Start date
Wouldnt lower compression just result in lower overall power? In other words it might only make 80% of the power as one with 400+ compression numbers? Might start a little.harder when really cold?
Yup...
Mine was a bugger to start below 30*... but hey, I was in the motor for $400 bucks so...
Yea, i can understand that^
I never checked mine before, during, or after I pulled the motor. It runs great and the cylinder walls were immaculate so I just fixed all the oil leaks and cleaned stuff up and yarded the motor back in.
I would be concerned but the motor was ran with a"100hp" chip until 225k. Then php tuning. Then 175/80s and php tunes again. That hundred horse tune felt like my 65hp tow tune from php. Im guessin it was pretty conservative. #whispers# Banks... LOL
I spent 1200 bucks on a SS 4" exhaust, the ebpv delete elbow, and that chip and hooked it to my trailer and was legitimately pleased with it. LOL Now i run everywhere in a race tune. Ahhhh,the good ole days! Damnit Joe, Im rambling!
I never checked mine before, during, or after I pulled the motor. It runs great and the cylinder walls were immaculate so I just fixed all the oil leaks and cleaned stuff up and yarded the motor back in.
I would be concerned but the motor was ran with a"100hp" chip until 225k. Then php tuning. Then 175/80s and php tunes again. That hundred horse tune felt like my 65hp tow tune from php. Im guessin it was pretty conservative. #whispers# Banks... LOL
I spent 1200 bucks on a SS 4" exhaust, the ebpv delete elbow, and that chip and hooked it to my trailer and was legitimately pleased with it. LOL Now i run everywhere in a race tune. Ahhhh,the good ole days! Damnit Joe, Im rambling!
Blowby
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Hell I drive mine with 200 psi in all cylinders every day with plenty of power.
powerlifter405
Active member
When I do sh$t like that, things melt. I've seen others do sh$t like that and melt things, sparks fly and so on.
Unplugged the big pin connector is cheap insurance IMHO and is easier to deal with VS a fried electrical system from being too lazy to unplug a harness w/ a 10mm socket.
OP I had something similar happen. I won't say who's injectors I had but the truck was running rough, I put in the injectors and it turned into a fog machine until warmed up. One cylinder was shot just like your's.
Find a used 7.3 to drop in. They are cheap and sometimes free and it can hold you over until you get your FMR one built.
Good luck!
Can you please explain to me how you’re going to melt or hurt anything by turning over the starter?
You cant really be serious...
caladash
New member
No need to disconnect anything when using a 10 dollar bump start button from harbor freight. Don't even need to turn the key! One wire to the battery and other to the starter. Done! No disconnecting anything and potentially bending a pin, wire, etc.
But....I did some work for a buddy of mine and my new valves should be here in the next few days for my heads at the machine shop. Then my forged rod motor can go in. Took me a few hours to get the front end disassembled. Wasn't to bad at all. An 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and phillips! I'm really curious to find out what caused my drop in compression. So far one snag, my pulley puller sucks! Can't get my fluidampr off. Can anyone recommend a good one? So here is where Im at so far. Definitely upsetting looking at it like this!
But....I did some work for a buddy of mine and my new valves should be here in the next few days for my heads at the machine shop. Then my forged rod motor can go in. Took me a few hours to get the front end disassembled. Wasn't to bad at all. An 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and phillips! I'm really curious to find out what caused my drop in compression. So far one snag, my pulley puller sucks! Can't get my fluidampr off. Can anyone recommend a good one? So here is where Im at so far. Definitely upsetting looking at it like this!
caladash
New member
LIES!!! Truck looks terrible!! It hurts me to see it like this!! Hopefully it will be out this weekend. Just have turbo, transmission bolts, torque convertor, and drivers side components. Really getting anxious to see the bottom side of the head.
My pulller has a foot that is a Y shape. Run the bolts into the damper bolt pulling holes, tighten the jackbolt, and the damper walks right off. If you are trying to use a claw or grabber style puller, dont. Be sure you put the pointed end on the jack bolt or you'll ***k the threads up in the snout of the crankshaft. Then you'll be chasing down a tap to clean your threads up. No fun! In fact if you google the tap size for the crank snout you'll come across people who have stripped theirs out on a forum looking for help.
Also buy some washers that will fit on the installer,inside the dampers bore. This will alllow you to have adjustability in pushing your damper on. It tends to keep that bearing most installers have from getting crushed or side loaded and pushing your damper on crooked.
Take your time.
Also buy some washers that will fit on the installer,inside the dampers bore. This will alllow you to have adjustability in pushing your damper on. It tends to keep that bearing most installers have from getting crushed or side loaded and pushing your damper on crooked.
Take your time.
caladash
New member
Thanks Ty! Got it off yesterday! Had to use a buddies puller. The one I had was a POS from AutoZone. Took a few taps with a rubber mallet but it came off. Woodruff key is stuck and my LPOP wont come off. Just the inner gear.
Got the trouble head off and sure enough, the head looks fine. I'm beginning to think it was a lifter issue. So whoever mentioned that, come pick up your prize! Took one apart and don't really know what I'm looking at or how to see if it is bad. Motor should hopefully be out tomorrow though. I'm actually having a good time taking the truck apart!
Got the trouble head off and sure enough, the head looks fine. I'm beginning to think it was a lifter issue. So whoever mentioned that, come pick up your prize! Took one apart and don't really know what I'm looking at or how to see if it is bad. Motor should hopefully be out tomorrow though. I'm actually having a good time taking the truck apart!
I never remove the woodruff key. Int'l puts grey death on them. If its still holding well, leave it. As for the body of the lube oil pump. Get a scraper and a deadblow mallet and once you pull the bolts give each corner a sharp rap with the mallet. Then work the scraper in. If you can tap the bent end it'll get behind the body.
Like this:
Like this:
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caladash
New member
This is where I'm at.....no the bolt and washer were not installed when I tried taking the inner gear out! I put that there so I don't lose it!
caladash
New member
Any ideas on how to get that gear off of the crank?
Why the hell wont it come off? It should come off by pulling with your hand. There is no puller for that. Did you buy one of those scraper/prybar deals? The.bent end would probably help.
It should NOT be that hard to remove or install!
It should NOT be that hard to remove or install!
caladash
New member
Beats me man! I put something similar behind it and tried to pry it out. No dice! I messed with it for about 20 minutes and then prepped the rest of the motor for removal. It's hard not to mess up the front cover. Yeah, that thing is on there. It slides on and off a little more than a quarter inch. Sounds like its hitting something.
caladash
New member
Like something solid. Tried a big flat head and pryed on it, no joy. I have a new Melling going in the other motor so I could care less about this but I don't like things like this getting the best of me! It's almost like that sleeve on the crank is affecting it.
