Surging??

Illinois7.3 · Dec 10, 2011

TrailerHauler said:
Bowl heater is worthless.

It hasnt hardly been below freezing except for a few days/nights and this problem was happening before the weather ever got semi-cool.

The dealership strikes agian.. Had an appt. for 9.. well the new guy I apparently talked to didn't know there wouldn't be any diesel techs working Saturdays so I still don't know what if any codes I have.

I have noticed it does act up more within the first 20 mins of my half hour drive than the last couple but it still happens. I wonder if oil temp might be a factor?? How long does the oil usually take to warm up to normal?

Big Bore · Dec 10, 2011

You don't need a bowl heater, and it won't cause surging if it's not working. I ran a 7.3 for years without one at temps well below zero. I don't even plug my truck in till -10. Your oil should be plenty warm enough. You need to data log ICP and DC and try to get some fuel pressure readings. Have you done the in tank mods/cleaned the pick up?

JLDickmon · Dec 11, 2011

TrailerHauler said:
Bowl heater is worthless.

I can't say this without sounding snotty, and I really don't mean it that way..

imp:

"In your opinion"

And I don't share that opinion, right, wrong or otherwise.

The fuel bowl heater is on there for a reason. And as far as I'm concerned, if it's going to be on *my* truck, the damn thing better work.

Big Bore · Dec 11, 2011

OP, I read back through this and remembered your the one with the main harness connector that was rubbed on, did you ever address that?

Illinois7.3 · Dec 11, 2011

Big Bore said:
You don't need a bowl heater, and it won't cause surging if it's not working. I ran a 7.3 for years without one at temps well below zero. I don't even plug my truck in till -10. Your oil should be plenty warm enough. You need to data log ICP and DC and try to get some fuel pressure readings. Have you done the in tank mods/cleaned the pick up?

Those are the parameters I had in mind. I just need to find out a way to. I'm on the verge of buying AE so maybe I oughta.

No I havent touched the tank yet. I dont really have the ability while I'm here at my place with a damn carport but I should be going back to my parents for a few days for Christmas and could do it then.

Illinois7.3 · Dec 11, 2011

Big Bore said:
OP, I read back through this and remembered your the one with the main harness connector that was rubbed on, did you ever address that?

Well kind of. I have the group of wires taped up as a group.. Maybe I need to tape them individually and then maybe put some plastic over it?

TrailerHauler · Dec 11, 2011

JLDickmon said:
I can't say this without sounding snotty, and I really don't mean it that way.. imp:

"In your opinion"

And I don't share that opinion, right, wrong or otherwise.

The fuel bowl heater is on there for a reason. And as far as I'm concerned, if it's going to be on *my* truck, the damn thing better work.

It is "my opinion", but its also been proven time and time again that these trucks run fine in cold weather without the bowl heater or the air intake heater. Now while I agree that if the bowl heater is on the truck I want it to work properly, I won't hesitate to pull that cluster fvck/ fuel bowl out of my valley when I do a fuel system if ya know what I'm sayin.

Illinois7.3 said:
Well kind of. I have the group of wires taped up as a group.. Maybe I need to tape them individually and then maybe put some plastic over it?

If I were you I would address that, taping up multiple wires that have rubbed through together = bad! Personally I would wrap them all in heat shrink tubing and then put wire loom over the wires so the problem doesn't happen again. But temporarily you should at least separate all the wires and individually tape them up GOOD, then tape them up as a group and put wire loom over them. That could possibly still be causing your issue.

Big Bore · Dec 11, 2011

TrailerHauler said:
It is "my opinion", but its also been proven time and time again that these trucks run fine in cold weather without the bowl heater or the air intake heater. Now while I agree that if the bowl heater is on the truck I want it to work properly, I won't hesitate to pull that cluster fvck/ fuel bowl out of my valley when I do a fuel system if ya know what I'm sayin.
.

As far as I can tell the purpose of the bowl heater is to pop a fuse and leave you stranded or give the Ford mechanic the chance to sell you a new pcm. Lots of diesels never had one. There are also several things on a 7.3 in a Ford that are not on a 7.3 in an International, so the fact ford engineers put it on there doesn't mean its the right thing or "needed". Like the EBPV. If your fuel is gelling or waxing, the heater will only prevent that at the filter, not the rest of the system. And if you are running fuel without an additive to counter the crappy low sulfur you have more than the filter housing to worry about.

Illinois7.3 · Dec 11, 2011

TrailerHauler said:
If I were you I would address that, taping up multiple wires that have rubbed through together = bad! Personally I would wrap them all in heat shrink tubing and then put wire loom over the wires so the problem doesn't happen again. But temporarily you should at least separate all the wires and individually tape them up GOOD, then tape them up as a group and put wire loom over them. That could possibly still be causing your issue.

That's what I'll do then. I'll hopefully get the taping done tomorrow after work in the convenient heated shop but the shrink wrap wont happen till I get a hold of my dads heat gun.

Really appreciate the help guys!

Illinois7.3 · Dec 11, 2011

Big Bore said:
As far as I can tell the purpose of the bowl heater is to pop a fuse and leave you stranded or give the Ford mechanic the chance to sell you a new pcm. Lots of diesels never had one. There are also several things on a 7.3 in a Ford that are not on a 7.3 in an International, so the fact ford engineers put it on there doesn't mean its the right thing or "needed". Like the EBPV. If your fuel is gelling or waxing, the heater will only prevent that at the filter, not the rest of the system. And if you are running fuel without an additive to counter the crappy low sulfur you have more than the filter housing to worry about.

Well I'm gunna have an admission of ignorance here.. I don't add anything to my ULSD.. :doh:

I've hear people just dump a little bottle of 2 cycle oil in.. How much should theoretically go with a full tank? Or is there better options as far as additives go?

JLDickmon · Dec 12, 2011

just as an aside to the conversation..
My truck acted just as the OP's did yesterday morning in 17 degree weather..
I'm sure it is/was the fuel trying to gel..

I'd have to suggest a pint of Power Service in the white bottle at the next fill, and see if it still does it then..

Illinois7.3 · Dec 13, 2011

Well I went to tape my harness wires up and I couldn't find any wires rubbed through when I actually took that connector apart and could clearly see the underside of the wires. So I guess that's off the list.

I picked up some of the power service anti-gel and put some in at work. It acted better on the way home I think. I'll put my chip back in tomorrow since the problem is more evident with it.

I did some snooping and I noticed my "trailer tow battery charge" fuse is blown. It's a green 30amp. I'm going to replace it regardless but what does that fuse do and would it have anything to do with my problem?

Thanks

TrailerHauler · Dec 13, 2011

Illinois7.3 said:
I did some snooping and I noticed my "trailer tow battery charge" fuse is blown. It's a green 30amp. I'm going to replace it regardless but what does that fuse do and would it have anything to do with my problem?

Thanks

I highly doubt that has anything to do with your problem. But the fuse should be for a wire that goes to one of the pins in your 7 way trailer connector to charge a battery on a trailer (like a dump trailer, or a trailer with a winch).

Illinois7.3 · Dec 13, 2011

TrailerHauler said:
I highly doubt that has anything to do with your problem. But the fuse should be for a wire that goes to one of the pins in your 7 way trailer connector to charge a battery on a trailer (like a dump trailer, or a trailer with a winch).

That's what I figured but I've never had to use that.

As much as I love my dinosaur those 6.4's look better and better...

Illinois7.3 · Dec 14, 2011

Well it appears that the power service had no effect. It acted up pretty good on the way to work. I took it out before I drove home because it pisses me off when it acts up.

Anyways I ordered a new TPS from Dorman thru Amazon, same way as the last one. I figured it made the problem stop for a few months maybe I'll get lucky again.

I don't know where else to go from here since I can't find any good way to hook it up for codes or anything.

JLDickmon · Dec 16, 2011

Illinois7.3 said:
I don't know where else to go from here since I can't find any good way to hook it up for codes or anything.

gonna get expensive guessing...
one of those cheap WalMart laptops and AE should only set you back about $700.
about a tenth of what I paid for my MODIS...

Big Bore · Dec 16, 2011

Illinois7.3 said:
Well I'm gunna have an admission of ignorance here.. I don't add anything to my ULSD.. :doh:

I've hear people just dump a little bottle of 2 cycle oil in.. How much should theoretically go with a full tank? Or is there better options as far as additives go?

I use the Power Service Diesel Kleen cetane additive/cleaner/lubricator, white bottle is winter formula. I use that because I can get it anywhere, WalMart in large bottle and nearest parts store even local gas station. I can definitely tell the difference when I don't use it. If you don't add anything currently, you will really notice the first time.

Big Bore · Dec 16, 2011

Illinois7.3 said:
Well it appears that the power service had no effect. It acted up pretty good on the way to work. I took it out before I drove home because it pisses me off when it acts up.

Anyways I ordered a new TPS from Dorman thru Amazon, same way as the last one. I figured it made the problem stop for a few months maybe I'll get lucky again.

I don't know where else to go from here since I can't find any good way to hook it up for codes or anything.

Additive wont fix your electrical issue.

I'm wondering if the Dorman TPS is just not well made. I know your Ford guy is a douche who doesn't know anything, but make him pull up the throttle pedal assembly schematic and show him the part, educate him, tell him to order the damn thing, and see if that solves the problem.

If he says there is no TPS, then ask him just exactly how a completely computer controlled fuel system gets an input signal from the foot pedal. Oh, and bring him the old one you took off.

Illinois7.3 · Dec 17, 2011

Big Bore said:
Additive wont fix your electrical issue.

I'm wondering if the Dorman TPS is just not well made. I know your Ford guy is a douche who doesn't know anything, but make him pull up the throttle pedal assembly schematic and show him the part, educate him, tell him to order the damn thing, and see if that solves the problem.

If he says there is no TPS, then ask him just exactly how a completely computer controlled fuel system gets an input signal from the foot pedal. Oh, and bring him the old one you took off.

Well I'm pretty sure it was the TPS giving me fits again. I got another Dorman one just because I was curious.. and it seems to have fixed the issue. I haven't driven very much with the new one but it acts like a totally different truck.