Tips on Plenum R&R for reseal?

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Since I'm only home in little spurts now, I need to get some progress on lowering EGTs on the wife's truck so she can tow her (new to her) trailer to the mountans without sweating the EGT. And the mileage is down. I know the plenums are leaking. I have a mostly stock motor. Since I'm sitting 1,200 miles a way anticipating, I'm wondering what I'll run into R&Ring the plenums. I'd love it to be part of an upgrade but not now.

So what has to come off, what to watch out for and how long to allow to do it?

I have the correct sealant.

Thanks
 

old man dave

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I used a 1" sharpened putty knife and a hammer to cut the sealant and pry off the plenums. Plain old gasket scraper and knife to remove the old sealant after plugging the heads with a rag. Shop Vac would be nice to suck up the bits and pieces. You may have to remove the HPOP so have a HPOP gasket ready. Most of the work is just getting to the plenums. Unplugging engine valve cover harness, intake y, GPR (maybe), batteries, removing the HPOP (not sure about this since I have a dual HPOP so there is no clearance to the plenum) not much more than that. Wire wheel works to clean the plenums fast. There is a bolt (front passenger side that is hard to get to due to interference with the front cover. I use a ground down box end wrench to get at it. The corresponding hole in the plenum is slotted to allow removal since the bolt does not come out.

Make about a 1/8" bead around the plenum edges and bolt holes. M8 bolts, I think are 24ft-lbs.
 
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gnxtc2

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Before doing anything, pressure test the plenums.

What needs to be removed to make your life easier:
- Turbo
- Fuel filter canister (if you still have it)
- Remove HPOP hose to the head.
- Wiring

The HPOP does not need to come out. There is a bolt that can not be removed. The plenum has a notch to slide it out.

I stuff the heads with paper so nothing gets in. I use one of these to clean the old gasket material off.

Bristle-Discs-300.jpg


To give you an idea

DSC_0130_zps305195a8.jpg


Billy T.
gnxtc22aol.com
 

zilla68

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are they obs specific or a retro fit of the sd's? I thought I read the sd's don't fit quite right on the obs.
 
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Thanks to both Billy and Dave for geting back to me, 2 guys I feel like I know by now. I did pressure test them, that is what brought me to want to reseal them. Good to know what I need to pull off. Now if I just had a WW2 and an SRP1.1 on hand, it would be one of those while I was there kind of things!

I keep all of the gaskets and seals in stock to R&R any of the above so I guess it is just spending the time to do it.

Before doing anything, pressure test the plenums.

What needs to be removed to make your life easier:
- Turbo
- Fuel filter canister (if you still have it)
- Remove HPOP hose to the head.
- Wiring

The HPOP does not need to come out. There is a bolt that can not be removed. The plenum has a notch to slide it out.

I stuff the heads with paper so nothing gets in. I use one of these to clean the old gasket material off.

Bristle-Discs-300.jpg


To give you an idea

DSC_0130_zps305195a8.jpg


Billy T.
gnxtc22aol.com
 

old man dave

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The flat style aftermarket ones should fit without clearance problems. I used a set of billet plenums that rise like the SD ones but they do not fit under the stock turbo or fuel fittting.

The SD sheet metal ones fit with a little denting at the rear of the driver's side plenum. Pasenger side fits without problems. I do suggest using the reinforcing rings for the plenum necks since the SD ones have a bad habit of crushing when you really tighten them up.
 

DZL JIM

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FWIW Cometic sells gaskets for these intakes, too. Mine have been on for about 8 years now with moderately high boost and no issues whatsoever.
 

m j

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that is an understatement
they should not have bored completely through the plate to install the tubing.


 

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