Trans Question... MARK???

[CSIPSD]

While installing the new motor I pulled one of the extra trans coolers I had installed (some large 15x15" thing). It was being used with a V-10 cooler as well with the radiator one bypassed.

After listening to you talk about how good the water to oil cooler was, I hooked it back up. Of course it had not been used in a few years so I left my old magifine filter on the return side for a few weeks (this was just three days ago)...

At the same time I added a filter head on the supply side with a Motorcraft spin on filter FL-1A...

I am seeing high temps on my trans right now, 220+ just bumping around town. Previously I would never see temps above 190* unless pulling heavy in the mountains.

I plan on removing the magifine filter when I get home tonight and see if that helps, any input?

Thanks!

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

There is probably too much restriction in the cooler circuit. It could be the cooler, the radiator cooler, the filter, or a pinched line. If the circuit has a restriction the bypass will open and little if any fluid goes through the coolers.

 

[CSIPSD]

Pulled the magfine filter this weekend. Seemed a bit better today, but still saw temps around 180* when it was 30* or so.

I know you have said the rad cooler never acts as a warmer correct?

I'll look over the rest of my lines today and see if its pinched on the way to the V-10 cooler.

 

[kyle43335]

unhook that fl-1a filter head you installed. reverse the install process, to find the culprit.

fl-1a was a oil filter widely used on fords back in the day. 302,351w,351m,460, etc

might be to tight a filter?

 

[CSIPSD]

unhook that fl-1a filter head you installed. reverse the install process, to find the culprit.

fl-1a was a oil filter widely used on fords back in the day. 302,351w,351m,460, etc

might be to tight a filter?

Thats on the list as well. I changed and cleaned up a bunch of **** when I put the motor back in... I've had this filter set up sitting in the shop for damn near a year.

Need to dig up the micron rating of the filter.

 

[Arisley]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1814632

There you go.

 

[CSIPSD]

FL1A
Oil Filter Style Canister
Height (in) 5.190 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.780 in.
Filter Bypass Relief Valve Yes
Relief Valve Open (psi) 11-14 psi
Anti-Drainback Valve Yes
Smallest Particle Filtered 20 microns
Maximum Burst Pressure (psi) 200 psi
Thread Size 3/4-16 in.
Gasket Outside Diameter (in) 2.800 in.
Gasket Inside Diameter (in) 2.422 in.
Gasket Thickness (in) 0.203 in.

Thats the FL-1A filter...

Cant really find anything that good on the Baldwin one... 22 micron is what I find...

 

[CSIPSD]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1814632

There you go.

LOL... I did that, but was spending time trying to find the Baldwin filter info.

Seems like it should work fine in this application.

 

[CSIPSD]

Ok, Removed the added filter, not much change.

If I am sitting in traffic for any amount of time the internal temp got up to 247* and the pan temp was up to 220*...

Can the bypass break?

Could we have damaged anything when reinstalling the motor that would cause the tranny to still function properly, but get hot?

This weekend I will remove the water to oil cooler and reinstall the air to oil cooler I removed.

I cant see the filter being the issue, it has a built in bypass, the filter is the same micron rating as Bob's filter set up...

Anyone else have any feed back?

 

[Vader's Fury]

I did have a situation with mine that the bypass was always working. No matter what I did, I could not keep temps down. Replaced the bypass and all was well.

 

[CSIPSD]

I did have a situation with mine that the bypass was always working. No matter what I did, I could not keep temps down. Replaced the bypass and all was well.

Not sure how that could happen, I thought the bypass was pressure related, not temp.

IE its always flowing 100% unless there is a restriction in the lines, where the bypass will open and keep fluid in the trans.

I may be wrong however.

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

That's how the bypass works when it is working. All it has is a check valve with a spring holding the valve closed. If that spring gets weak or breaks the bypass is open all the time.

 

[CSIPSD]

If I were to rig a gauge up, what pressure should I be looking for on the return or supply lines?

Thinking I will go get a cheap pressure gauge and check...

 

[Mark Kovalsky]

You can do that, but there is an easier way.

Warm the trans up. Shut the engine off. Get two buckets.

Remove the line from the rear of the trans and put the line into the first bucket. Have someone start it up, leaving it in park and at idle. Once the flow from the line is steady move the line to the second bucket for EXACTLY 15 SECONDS then put it back in the first bucket and shut the engine off. If fluid came spraying out of the open hole in the transmission then either the bypass has failed or the cooler(s) is plugged.

If there is less than one quart in the second bucket then it fails the flow test. Low fluid is usually either a bad bypass of a plugged cooler. It could also be a pinched line, or even a worn pump.

 

[CSIPSD]

I will do this tomorrow!

 

[OBSWIZ]

What cooler do you have? Just run a 31 row cooler 6.0 run first to the rad then to it......will never see 180.

 

[CSIPSD]

What cooler do you have? Just run a 31 row cooler 6.0 run first to the rad then to it......will never see 180.

I have a V10 cooler, which is nearly as big as the 6.0. With that I had another cooler added by a trans builder when they bypassed the factory water to oil... It never got hot before, ran too cold IMHO so while the motor was out I removed the added cooler and reconnected the oil to water. I also added a spin on filter at that time.

Now I am running WAY too hot, but I have not had a chance to check for restrictions just yet.

 

[OBSWIZ]

The V 10 cooler is only 12-13 cores not even 1/2 the size...of the 31 row 6.0 cooler!
Remove the spin on its just not needed...if you think that the Rad wasn't clean just get a
Hastings TF109 Magnetic In-Line Universal Transmission Filter, really all thats ever needed.

Drop the pan every 30k change filter and refill 8ts..don't power flush...per BTS.

 

[CSIPSD]

The V 10 cooler is only 12-13 cores not even 1/2 the size...of the 31 row 6.0 cooler!
Remove the spin on its just not needed...if you think that the Rad wasn't clean just get a
Hastings TF109 Magnetic In-Line Universal Transmission Filter, really all thats ever needed.

Drop the pan every 30k change filter and refill 8ts..don't power flush...per BTS.

While I apreceate what your saying, I had a magfine filter on for years, wanted to go to something a little cleaner looking.

The cooler I had before never caused me any issues, for over 200k. There is a problem, a new cooler is not the answer.

 

[lincolnlocker]

how hard would it be to put it back to the way it was when you didn't have any issues?