Tuning 101 - Thread Merged with Injector Posts

[HEUIGuy]

Been following this for a while even though I don't tune or even have custom tunes for that matter. On my late 99 with stock injectors, chip off my cold start idle is say 600rpm until high idle kicks in but there is zero haze at startup. Running any tune my cold start rpm is near 1000 and I always get a little cloud/ haze for the first say 5 seconds of run time. What rpm is everyone else seeing on initial start up?

Here is the base ide speed control for your stock file.

This is decided by Oil Temp in C*

There are a few other things that decide idle speed also.
One is a multiplier that will build RPM by time at idle and can be used as an automatic high idle that kicks back down when you touch the break.

Let me know if there is anything else you want to see.

 

[Jomax]

Good Stuff!

Did you have an older forum name in the past?


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[HEUIGuy]

Ok..... I do/did/will not have another name. Why do I need to be 'somebody' to be posting? If you don't appreciate what I have to contribute than feel free to ignore. Believe it or not a person can know a thing or two without being on a forum.

 

[mikeeg02]

Im starting to hate my tuning....other than the idle. Idle is great. Which is important to me.

The best tune I have is my "economy" tune as its pulled back enough in terms of pw that its not putting out the fire. The rest, are too rich. The "stock" file is fine past 50% throttle. And who in tf puts a truck in od at 47mph? Its aggra-damn-vating. If i remember to, i turn off od until about 60.

Other than being mushy off idle in the economy tune it drives better and its not supposed to.

In my older auto truck, I actually preferred it to shift into OD around 45 under light throttle, that way if you were just cruising back roads / what have you, you could allow it to do so. If I needed more time in third I always used the button, because you couldnt do the opposite (force it in to OD when in 3rd if the tuning wont allow it)

Then I got my 6 speed, and if its not in the right gear, I have nobody to be upset with other then myself :hammer:

I feel like your personal transmission strategies change depending on mood/load/road conditions (mountainous vs flat) etc. And I am afraid that nobodies tuning (other then perhaps yourself) will get it 100%. Though I will admit with that old truck, Jody had a pretty good transmission tune that worked for 90% of my applications.

 

[Charles]

In my older auto truck, I actually preferred it to shift into OD around 45 under light throttle, that way if you were just cruising back roads / what have you, you could allow it to do so. If I needed more time in third I always used the button, because you couldnt do the opposite (force it in to OD when in 3rd if the tuning wont allow it)

Then I got my 6 speed, and if its not in the right gear, I have nobody to be upset with other then myself :hammer:

I feel like your personal transmission strategies change depending on mood/load/road conditions (mountainous vs flat) etc. And I am afraid that nobodies tuning (other then perhaps yourself) will get it 100%. Though I will admit with that old truck, Jody had a pretty good transmission tune that worked for 90% of my applications.

No full-auto trans strategy can ever be right except under one condition. Full-manual auto is the answer. You select the gears when you want, like a ZF, but without having to run a trans that sucks.

I'm considering having the clutch pedal run the converter lockup and using a standard H pattern shifter with a 4R100.

I've also toyed with the idea of removing the fluid coupler in the converter and running the discs alone with the clutch pedal modulating the PWM converter lockup valve to run the clutch just like in a manual, except it's fluid cooled, has TONS more capacity and has only as much resistance as you want to add a spring for...

Plus, when you want to hual ass you don't touch the clutch pedal, just slap the shifter into the next gear...

And when you're towing, you push the pedal in, make the shift and let the pedal out for a smooth shift that an auto just can't do when towing heavy unless you want to unlock on the shifts, which is hard to control.

 

[Charles]

Many people are happy with the result of a emailed custom tune. But I can say from experience, there is nothing that compares to live tuning. Although, I don't seem to have to much trouble getting a truck to run decent without being there. But some people are more picky than others. I'm really picky. But I have software. IMO if you have no intention of being extremely picky about how your files work you have no business tuning.

As for my files, I am out of town and WiFi is horrible here. I'll try again to get some files up but it may have to wait till I get home in a few weeks.

Charles, do you have VCABO_02 or VRAA6S3?

I don't ever have my laptop when I usually have time to look on here. Whatever DAC, AEB and VDH are. Those seem to be the ones I've needed and therefore bought thus far, plus whatever a 2000 excursion is. Whatever codes those are, that's what I've got. The little number codes for the templates seems like total nonsense to me so I just cannot seem to allocate any time to memorizing them.

 

[mikeeg02]

No full-auto trans strategy can ever be right except under one condition. Full-manual auto is the answer. You select the gears when you want, like a ZF, but without having to run a trans that sucks.

I'm considering having the clutch pedal run the converter lockup and using a standard H pattern shifter with a 4R100.

I've also toyed with the idea of removing the fluid coupler in the converter and running the discs alone with the clutch pedal modulating the PWM converter lockup valve to run the clutch just like in a manual, except it's fluid cooled, has TONS more capacity and has only as much resistance as you want to add a spring for...

Plus, when you want to hual ass you don't touch the clutch pedal, just slap the shifter into the next gear...

And when you're towing, you push the pedal in, make the shift and let the pedal out for a smooth shift that an auto just can't do when towing heavy unless you want to unlock on the shifts, which is hard to control.

Wouldn't it be easier to use a potentiometer attached tour the clutch pedal, to control the percentage or DC of the converter lockup ?

I'm sure that'd require a PCS controller or similar to run the transmission basic functions, but if you used the clutch pedal to electrically modulate the converter lockup it may actually be something you could do in a timely fashion .

 

[mandkole]

The best tune I have is my "economy" tune as its pulled back enough in terms of pw that its not putting out the fire. The rest, are too rich. The "stock" file is fine past 50% throttle. And who in tf puts a truck in od at 47mph? Its aggra-damn-vating. If i remember to, i turn off od until about 60.

Agree-- Bill adjusted this a few years ago on my files. In light/no load throttle it goes to OD at 52mph now. It will stay in 3rd a little longer if there's load there and will not unshift until engine speed forces it or load reduces. It does this mainly with the trailer back there.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Ok..... I do/did/will not have another name. Why do I need to be 'somebody' to be posting? If you don't appreciate what I have to contribute than feel free to ignore. Believe it or not a person can know a thing or two without being on a forum.

welcome!!

its nothing against you. there are many out there that tune. most are known/found on the forums through out the years or have been mentioned by someone else before.. just a simple question. no need to get defensive when someone asks who you are and say you are a nobody.. makes you look guilty to jump the gun with asking if its ok to be here or post cuz you're "not somebody"..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[HEUIGuy]

welcome!!

its nothing against you. there are many out there that tune. most are known/found on the forums through out the years or have been mentioned by someone else before.. just a simple question. no need to get defensive when someone asks who you are and say you are a nobody.. makes you look guilty to jump the gun with asking if its ok to be here or post cuz you're "not somebody"..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Thanks.

In a not, snot nose kid way, I say I'm nobody special. Simply, I'm not/am not affiliated with, any big name tuners. So, I'm nobody you have heard of. Just a guy that likes trucks

Anyway..

One problem I have seen time and time again.

96-97 trucks. With an OBD2 monitor randomly shut down and fail to boot (specifically EDGE monitors possibly other obd2 read out devices). Has anyone found a solution to this? It becomes very frustrating. I figured it was a fluke the first few but I have run into 6 people now with the same issue.

Ideas?

 

[superpsd]

I use the VDAB0 I believe. Only files I have as I just tune my own truck. It's a 97 but the pcm and build date is actually late 96. I use Torque and Car Gauge Apps to diagnose issues and have not had any random shut downs.

 

[Charles]

Wouldn't it be easier to use a potentiometer attached tour the clutch pedal, to control the percentage or DC of the converter lockup ?

I'm sure that'd require a PCS controller or similar to run the transmission basic functions, but if you used the clutch pedal to electrically modulate the converter lockup it may actually be something you could do in a timely fashion .

I've also toyed with the idea of removing the fluid coupler in the converter and running the discs alone with the clutch pedal modulating the PWM converter lockup valve to run the clutch just like in a manual, except it's fluid cooled, has TONS more capacity and has only as much resistance as you want to add a spring for...

lol.


Yes, a pot on the clutch pedal is what I would use for input. That or a hall. I've toyed with that idea for years now. Without all the fluid coupler crap in the way you could have tons of steels and frictions. With that much surface area, and with it being fluid cooled you could probably slide it and launch hard as well. Put a low duty cycle on a deadman lever and you could hold the brake with your left, tps with your right foot and squeeze the deadman for a percentage of clutch engagement. Once she's lit, release the deadman and let the big dog eat... then bang the shifter boom, boom, boom 2,3,4.

I've never felt a locked up 1st gear, but it might be too high for towing without a lot of clutch sliding.

 

[mikeeg02]

lol.


Yes, a pot on the clutch pedal is what I would use for input. That or a hall. I've toyed with that idea for years now. Without all the fluid coupler crap in the way you could have tons of steels and frictions. With that much surface area, and with it being fluid cooled you could probably slide it and launch hard as well. Put a low duty cycle on a deadman lever and you could hold the brake with your left, tps with your right foot and squeeze the deadman for a percentage of clutch engagement. Once she's lit, release the deadman and let the big dog eat... then bang the shifter boom, boom, boom 2,3,4.

I've never felt a locked up 1st gear, but it might be too high for towing without a lot of clutch sliding.

Sorry, must of missed that part. Somehow I read into it as a more mechanical setup you were dreaming of.

 

[IHPowerstroke7.3]

Here is the base ide speed control for your stock file.

This is decided by Oil Temp in C*

There are a few other things that decide idle speed also.
One is a multiplier that will build RPM by time at idle and can be used as an automatic high idle that kicks back down when you touch the break.

Let me know if there is anything else you want to see.View attachment 45413

Thanks for sharing. I kinda missed my target on the post, I was kinda digging back to a year ago when the discussion was about cold starts. Since we are at that time of year again (have already had a few days below freezing) I noticed the return of my cold start smoke. I'm aware there are many parameters that would determine the idle speed. I guess the question I'm trying to ask is why is the target rpm set higher for cold starts than factory settings? I recall reading some of the other guys speaking about how their trucks started better cold with less smoke with no chip, even with larger than stock injectors, but smoked/ hazed with tuning.

Tuning on or off the high idle still functions, it just doesn't change as much tuning on because it's already at 900-1000 rpm.

 

[superpsd]

Idle speed control is just a part of the puzzle. Unless it was a custom tune I do not know why a tuner would adjust the idle speed parameter unless it was a whisper mode tune or high idle. As for haze and cold start timing may have a part in it. Most tuning has different timing profiles over a factory calibration.

 

[cleatus12r]

View attachment 45412

Let me know if this does not work.

This is a VRAA6S3 (PMT1) file In 256K. for any of you with the older 224K I can upload it in that size.

Its a very good running File I loved to daily drive with stage ones. (180s)

Feel free to check it out, just an FYI this was setup for a truck with a stock trans with a Valve body.

I only have one question:

There are only a couple professionals that "clamp" the max SOI to 40 degrees, as is yours, so I assume it came from somewhere else originally. There is a lot of massaging done to all of the mapping controlling SOI but yet the EOT based SOI adder takes a degree or two out at higher RPM until "normal" operating temperature is reached. You don't have anything to worry about concerning excessive SOI in this calibration so why degrade cold-weather/cold start operation by "cheating" what is considered a safe SOI? Some quick calculations show roughly 30.5 degrees at full tilt/3000 RPM and about 19.5 or so cruising.

 

[cleatus12r]

Idle speed control is just a part of the puzzle. Unless it was a custom tune I do not know why a tuner would adjust the idle speed parameter

Sometimes to get the idle perfectly smooth, a change of +/- 20 RPM makes a monumental difference. Obviously a couple hundred isn't ideal.

 

[HEUIGuy]

I only have one question:

There are only a couple professionals that "clamp" the max SOI to 40 degrees, as is yours, so I assume it came from somewhere else originally. There is a lot of massaging done to all of the mapping controlling SOI but yet the EOT based SOI adder takes a degree or two out at higher RPM until "normal" operating temperature is reached. You don't have anything to worry about concerning excessive SOI in this calibration so why degrade cold-weather/cold start operation by "cheating" what is considered a safe SOI? Some quick calculations show roughly 30.5 degrees at full tilt/3000 RPM and about 19.5 or so cruising.

I am glad you chimed in. I have wanted to get someone more experienced to look over my work.

This file did not originate from someone else. It was written from a stock file. on my computer..

I realize I am well within safe SOI limits. I have capped most of my files.. no particular reason.. I don't have cold start issues. Cap at 48*? would that be more correct..?

This file actually runs fantastic in all situations. it runs best where its at so I left it alone.

I would certainly not mind your input on the file! I have not once had a chance to sit down with a pro to get input. Just generally try to keep things safe.

I will be doing some dyno tuning in a few weeks when I get home to see the results of changes made and learn some things.

 

[cleatus12r]

This file did not originate from someone else. It was written from a stock file. on my computer..

I guess that picking 40 degrees matches other commercial joints so if you just picked it arbitrarily (and since I don't know you) then I suppose I have to take your word. I didn't find any tell-tale signs of a calibration denotation or a "copyright" placed in the binary so it either started out stock or was "ff" 'd out in a hex editor.

I realize I am well within safe SOI limits. I have capped most of my files.. no particular reason.. I don't have cold start issues. Cap at 48*? would that be more correct..?

I don't know what your latitude is and I don' t know what the weather is like where you are but in the dead of winter here with 15/40 oil, I need way more than 60 degrees to get a decent (perfect) start and warm-up. I had put up a video from last winter here with 200% nozzles at 10 degrees (but it was late morning and it was -6 overnight and below zero most nights) with a pickup that hadn't been started in a week. Some may remember that.

There are only two reasons to ever clamp that value at anything other than where it is stock: (1.) A person has no idea what they're doing when modifying a map and (2.) Is scared to change any of the mapping that has existed since 2001 because it works. Both reasons typically go together and could be classified as the one reason. Maybe where you're at you don't need to accommodate highly viscous oil so you'd never know the difference of stock vs. clamped.


I'm no expert. I do this as little as possible anymore since I realized that nobody is ever happy (the same reason I started doing this in 2008 because I wasn't happy) and that a few people out there are unscrupulous thieves who just want to copy/paste others' work. I'll occasionally write a calibration or two for someone in need who is experiencing issues with others' tuning just to lend a hand but I'm very picky about who gets it and with whom that person may be in cahoots.

 

[Jomax]

Ok..... I do/did/will not have another name. Why do I need to be 'somebody' to be posting? If you don't appreciate what I have to contribute than feel free to ignore. Believe it or not a person can know a thing or two without being on a forum.

No reason, it's just usually people with the tuning know how for 7.3s, Have been around for a long time, and pretty much everyone was on the forums talking about how to make a 7.3 faster.


You don't need to be somebody.


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