NathannialD
New member
we can build them with the egr provision in them for both the 6.0 and 6.4 manifolds.
Up Pipe options
- Thread starter HD-tech-NH
- Start date
we can build them with the egr provision in them for both the 6.0 and 6.4 manifolds.
You better watch out, I might take you up on the offer!! Haha
Really? Suppose I could have asked, but I assumed they just wernt made because I had never seen a set. Going to shoot you a PM.
3brorce
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Josh can do it either way you want also. Got them ordered from him today. Wondering what for ceramic I should have mani's coated. Black or silver? Cant see the dang things to good anyway and I think black would hold up better.
powerstroked08
Active member
nice! i def could have dug a little harder on this subject to find some results. next prob i'm going to have is pulling the cab just to do mani's and up pipes. wish there was other stuff to do at the same time, but the pocket book is not going to allow it.
powerstroked08
Active member
I did my up pipes and manifolds cab on in a day by myself. Its a pain but possible. The biggest pain in the a$$ was the a/c line is right in the way on the front passenger side manifold. So if your going to do the manifolds have the a/c pumped out to save the hassle. Oh and you will need new bolts for the 6.0 manifolds. Just buy 6.0 exhaust bolts and spacers. If you can pull the cab it would be easier.
Tree Trimmer
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how did you get the manifold bolts out?
i have been considering this, and took the fender liner out to get a look, and it seems like there is no room to get a few of the bolts out.
did you have to tip the motor??
i have been considering this, and took the fender liner out to get a look, and it seems like there is no room to get a few of the bolts out.
did you have to tip the motor??
powerstroked08
Active member
On the passenger side it was a pain to get the bottom ones out from about half way towards the front. And the top ones on the front cylander were a b!tch as well. But I had the a/c pumped off and I pulled the A/C line on the compressor and then I could get the bolt out. I think I ended up using a wrench and just kept messing with it. And yes I also took out the inner fender and passenger tire for easier access.
Riverside
Member
This plus moving my alternator made for more hand/wrench room on the passenger side.
powerstroked08
Active member
yesI forgot I moved mine to. Good catch on that one!
HD-tech-NH
Member
Is warpage at the gasket surface an issue with used 6.0 manifolds?
dieseljosh07
New member
It can be if they have been sitting unbolted from a head for a long period of time. You can check them with a straight edge and feeler gauges just like a cylinder head surface.
HD-tech-NH
Member
Worst case I could just surface them with the Bridgeport? What's the spec? 0.006" ?
dieseljosh07
New member
I don't recall the spec off hand. On 6.0's they came without any manifold gaskets so if a gasket is used the .006 warpage shouldn't be a problem.
Hmmmm, this doesn't sound all too terrible then. I have swapped turbos cab on, so im used to having to be gumby to get into places. recovering the 134a is easy too. what order did you do things? unbolt up pipes and remove them totally first, or unbolt the manifolds and remove those first... looking for any tips and tricks that you guys learned along the way when it came to physically taking out/putting back in the mani's and pipes themselves
HD-tech-NH
Member
S6210 socket from SnapOn I've been researching the job cab on trans in as well!!!!
White_monster
Active member
6pt wrenches, flex head 3/8 drive ratchet, various extensions, some penetrating oil, and maybe some form of heat. That will get them off. The snap on socket is junk, cracked 4 of them and it does nothing a regular socket can't except cost you more money.
Ditto on the snapon socket is crap. I broke 2 when I swapped my turbos. ended up just using 1/4" or 3/8" drive 6pt 10mm sockets and some extensions.... way easier.
how do the up pipes usually wiggle out.. down the bottom or up out the top?... or some backwards ass sideways crap that you need to take off the rear bumper to accomplish? lol
how do the up pipes usually wiggle out.. down the bottom or up out the top?... or some backwards ass sideways crap that you need to take off the rear bumper to accomplish? lol
HD-tech-NH
Member
nice thanks for the heads up
powerstroked08
Active member
Ok I found a write up I did from when I did my studs and manifolds. Maybe this will help some.
Manifolds
First off if your doing a 6.0 manifold upgrade i would highly reccommend having your A/C system pumped out and buy new bolts for the manifolds since the old ones are about 1/2" too long. And another thing to do is match the gaskets to the manifolds with a dremmel or something similar.(my 6.0 manifolds were ported so thats why I had to match mine, you may not need to)
Ok first i removed the down pipe and then the up pipes and egr down pipe. now is where things got fun. Since i was doing the manifolds and studs i wanted to make sure i was going to do it in a way that had the easiest access for both things i was doing so to do the manifolds im not saying all of the following steps are absolutely necessary but i did find it made it easier to see/do. Now to get to the driverside manifold i went and removed the driverside inner fender(8mm and a 6mm bolts), the battery tray and coolant reservoir (13mm) (i disconnected both batteries and drained all the coolant) then disconnected the radiator hose, the lower hose from the reservoir, and the small coolant hose on the front of the reservoir. Once that was out of the way i unscrewed the back pressure line and then removed the manifold (10mm). Now for the passenger side manifold i again removed the inner fender(8mm and 6mm) now i took a 3/8 ratchet and a cheater bar to slack the alternator belt and then slid an allen wrench into the tensioner slot to hold it slacked, then i removed the alternator (13mm). Next thing i did and i dont know if there is any way around it, but i removed the 2 A/C lines from the compressor and the one upper stud from the compressor. Once that is out of the way i unbolted the heat sheild and then the manifold, now its really tight for some of the bolts but i found that a 3/8 air ratchet was really helpful and if you had a 1/4 drive air ratchet you would probably be better off. Now some of the bolts are still hard to get at but a good 12 point wrench is good enough to get the front bottom ones.
Manifolds
First off if your doing a 6.0 manifold upgrade i would highly reccommend having your A/C system pumped out and buy new bolts for the manifolds since the old ones are about 1/2" too long. And another thing to do is match the gaskets to the manifolds with a dremmel or something similar.(my 6.0 manifolds were ported so thats why I had to match mine, you may not need to)
Ok first i removed the down pipe and then the up pipes and egr down pipe. now is where things got fun. Since i was doing the manifolds and studs i wanted to make sure i was going to do it in a way that had the easiest access for both things i was doing so to do the manifolds im not saying all of the following steps are absolutely necessary but i did find it made it easier to see/do. Now to get to the driverside manifold i went and removed the driverside inner fender(8mm and a 6mm bolts), the battery tray and coolant reservoir (13mm) (i disconnected both batteries and drained all the coolant) then disconnected the radiator hose, the lower hose from the reservoir, and the small coolant hose on the front of the reservoir. Once that was out of the way i unscrewed the back pressure line and then removed the manifold (10mm). Now for the passenger side manifold i again removed the inner fender(8mm and 6mm) now i took a 3/8 ratchet and a cheater bar to slack the alternator belt and then slid an allen wrench into the tensioner slot to hold it slacked, then i removed the alternator (13mm). Next thing i did and i dont know if there is any way around it, but i removed the 2 A/C lines from the compressor and the one upper stud from the compressor. Once that is out of the way i unbolted the heat sheild and then the manifold, now its really tight for some of the bolts but i found that a 3/8 air ratchet was really helpful and if you had a 1/4 drive air ratchet you would probably be better off. Now some of the bolts are still hard to get at but a good 12 point wrench is good enough to get the front bottom ones.
