We can rebuild it

bigrpowr

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i think my big turbo lost the seal due to improper venting of the ccv... i will be going to (2) 1" just to hope mine is safer when i replace it this weekend.
 

Dzchey21

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i heard of one truck blowing the glow plug seals out under full boost, thats why i did 2 one inch vents
 

Shipmate

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I have been thinking about this for a few days. This was all like 8 years ago so please forgive me it I do not recall everything. Back when we were racing EVOs and Eclipses in Hawaii, we kept blowing the dipstick out of holder. This was happening after we took off the Hose going to the intake coming from the valvecover. I went and drilled and tapped in two -8 lines on the valvecover and had no more issues. I was going to goto a vacuum pump but never got around to it.
Fast Fwd to today, I searched the internet and could only fine a atrical that was sometime close to what we were going to do.
"For every cubic inch above a piston, there's an equal amount below it. Your basic crankcase ventilation system is a simple PCV valve which sucks that air back into the engine to be reburnt. The downside is that you're sucking oil and water vapour back into the cylinders.

Racers have used other ways of keeping the crankcase clean and reducing pressure inside it. Exhaust evac systems have been around for years. They use a check valve similar to the AIR valve on your exhaust manifolds. When hooked into the exhaust system down at the end of the headers, the exhaust gasses can create enough vacuum to keep the crankcase pressure low. They pull very little from the crankcase at high rpms though.

In the last 30 years or so when the car manufacturers started using air pumps (smog pump) to inject air into the exhaust to reduce emissions, racers found that these pumps can also suck a lot of air out of the crankcase with a few modifications. Smog pumps are still used today but there are now better vacuum pumps available to do the job. Moroso makes a very good but expensive belt driven pump. GM produces an electric AIR pump for the exhaust on late model F-bodies that's supposed to work just as good for pulling the crankcase down into a vacuum.

The theory is that when the crankcase is in a vacuum, the pistons are not trying to compress air below them. This means some HP is free'd up. Having lower crankcase pressure also allows the rings to seat tighter against the cylinder walls. You'll also eliminate any oil leaks from the engine.

There are some drawbacks from running a crankcase in a vacuum. The rear main seal is designed to keep oil from going out. If the crankcase is in a vacuum, it can easily draw dirty air into the crankcase through the rear main seal. The common way to correct it is to install the seal backwards.

Too much vacuum can be hazardous. No more that 14-15" of vacuum should be used. A vacuum pump of any kind in a well sealed engine can pull 28" of vacuum. This is enough to pull the oil out of the wrist pins and bearings. The best way to limit the amount of vacuum is with a vacuum relief valve. It's preset to open if the vacuum become too great. Think of it as a controlled vacuum leak.

Dyno results vary but a 2-5% increase in HP can be expected."

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82357

I hope this helps out some.

Luke
 
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Erikclaw

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Here is a photo of the head. Not looking tooo nice.

mailgooglecom-1.jpg
 

BFT

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you had a broken injector tip and broke the valve spring, what did you think it would look like:poke:LOL
 

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